Pulling an engine

[bboylobo]

Im goanna be pulling my engine out this winter and i was hoping someone can give me a good write up that shows the the best way to do it.

While its out what are some things that i should do since that will make working on the stang so much easier. thanks guys

ps: i just ordered an engine crane and engine stand from harbor freight

 

[oxfordgt]

What are you doing to it once you pull it? I have no write up on how to pull it, that would take to long to type, but all I do is unplug the harness, disconnect the coolant and fuel lines, remove the driveshaft and yank it all out. Takes about 4 hours on my car with all the extra crap strapped to it and about 2 hours on a stock engine.

 

[bboylobo]

well the plan is to clean up the engine im goanna look int buying LTs and whatever i can afford of while its out. im doing this more for the learning experience but im sure i can get alot done while its out. I think my shorties are leaking somewhere and i really dont want to go through the PITA process of dropping the k-member again.

What are some things that i can do that are best done while the engine is out?

 

[fromadig91]

keeping an eye on this one, always wondered what SHOULD be done wile the engine is pulled

To the OP, sounds like your on the right track for equipment needed. Keep us updated with pics This way when I pull my buddies engine I got something to refer to

 

[twogts4us]

I always pull my motor to change the oil...doesn't everyone?

Seriously, why the hell are you pulling it? To "clean up the engine"? WTF?

 

[bboylobo]

Did you miss the part about learning? what about the long tube headers and my exhaust leak?

i never pulled an engine before and im just looking for the best pratices when pulling one. who knows, i might pull the heads off and put some ported ones on or put a different cam in. the stang is goanna be sitting for a while anyway so i figured i can learn alot from having the engine on a stand. I know it sounds stupid but im a very hands on learner like most of you guys probably are and i like the idea of being able to work on the engine without the rest of the car getting in the way.

i didnt like dropping to kmember at all. so im trying a different route.

 

[patman0911]

Whether pulling the engine or not, I'd suggest picking up a Haynes and/or Chiltons manual if you don't already have them. Some forum members may be able to point out some very helpful shortcuts they've figured out from experience but the procedures in the books are a fine place to start - they've already done a pretty thorough write-up with pics and illustrations and everything.

 

[twogts4us]

I've just never heard of someone pulling an engine to learn about it. In the end there is not much to see on the outside. And once you start pulling parts off to see how things work on the inside I'll bet that it'll never run again (without taking the whole thing to someone who knows how to build an engine and can bail you out of the situation you should have never gotten yourself into in the first place).
I take the suggestion above to start by READING. And get a plan...are you going to change the heads? Do you have any idea how that is done on the OHC motors? No offense, but NOBODY starts pulling apart a perfectly good engine trying to fix something that isn't broken in the first place. I understand you may have an exhaust leak...but that doesn't call for pulling the motor.

 

[wmburns]

Suggestion. Don't get the smallest budget crane. A buddy of mine has the smaller one. The boom is too short to place an engine in the back of a pick-up truck. Also, the budget crane has limited height/reach. This is a problem when the car is high on stands or working with a larger vehicle such as a pick-up.

The larger one is worth the small difference in price.

On the Harbor Freight engine stand, the 3 legged version is not really very stable. Get the one with 4 casters. Again, not much difference in $$ but the 3 legged version is likely to tip over if pushed across the garage. Further, the modular engine is very top heavy. You will thank me every time the engine is rotated top to bottom.

The Harbor Freight load leveler is more than adequate for the home user.

+1 on getting and studying the manuals before starting. Get zip lock bags and a sharpie for all of the nuts/bolts. I put notes on the bags. Also, take pictures as you go. This has saved my rear-end on more than once.

 

[ninjastang125]

Well with having not alot of prior knowledge on ohc motors it could get you in over your head without help. I would get a chilton or any other repair book. I had to pull mine but that was because i had a spun rod bearing, but the exhaust is a pita in the car. I dont have alot of knowledge on the mod motors but i have pulled engines from foxes before. The hardest part about pulling the motor out is going to be putting it back in. If you take the heads off making sure it is in time is a must. I attempted it and took it to revolution performance up the road from me and i had it right but if you dont have the timing right twogts will indeed be right and it wont run because vavles will be hitting the pistons and will cause damage to both of them. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

[02nightmaregt]

Ha those Haynes manuals are crap, They say they cover years up to '04, but there is nothing in it about PI's. I have one and it does not help with crap. Also how else do you learn about an engine, other than by working on it? If you want to pull it to make things easier to work on than do it. Its ignorant to tell you not to do it. I am in the middle of tearing mine apart right now to clean up some wiring, and replace a bunch of parts. I am also a visual/hands on learner so I understand why you are doing it. Post pics along the way

 

[patman0911]

Ha those Haynes manuals are crap, They say they cover years up to '04, but there is nothing in it about PI's...

True, there's no PI specific info in mine either which says it covers up to 2001 but on the other hand, there's nothing really significantly different in how a NPI and PI car are put together, or hell, a Fox either You may need to look elsewhere for some specific data but for general procedures, it should still be useful.

 

[bboylobo]

well i got the crane with the 4 casters for sure. as for being a super noob on an engines, yea im no pro but im not an idiot either. I know how our engines work internally. i been reading on how our engines work for months. Im not saying that im goanna do new heads. i dont know what i want to do yet. i just want to delve into pulling the engine because im bored and i love working on cars. i have a 2 car garage that i just baught with my home. i mean is pulling the engine that big of a deal. its a pretty much stock engine. wouldnt it be easier to pull the engine to work on it especiall tighening up the headers good?

I appreciate everyones observation at why its stupid to pull the engine without a downright good reason but i didnt ask for reasons not to pull the engine. i just wanted a link to a good tutorial.i know the haynes and chiltons have great information but sometimes literature doesnt provide you with the real life situations that can happen when doing something like this. there are guys on the board who do this everyday and i was hoping that if there was any tricks or tips for removing and installing the engine they can relay the info.

i also wanted to know what are some things that i can do while its out like removing the oil pan and cleaning it out and checking for metal shavings or spraying the block down to clean it. things like that.

 

[ninjastang125]

When you installed you shorty headders did you use the gaskets that came with the headers or factory ford gaskets? I personally rebuilt my whole motor with factory ford gaskets. They have the highest quality IMOH.

 

[bboylobo]

i used oem gaskets from advanced auto. i threw out that paper crap that bbk offered. if it is leaking at the gasket im goanna get a set of crush gaskets.

 

[wmburns]

Some tips/suggestions

As to your question about how big of a deal is it to pull an engine. It is work. I have pulled two using stands and a crane in my drive way. To the guys that can do it in a couple of hours, my hats off to you. It takes me a good part of the weekend to get it out.

It takes me a major part of a weekend to get it back in. I find the re-assemble process takes longer because of the need to torque bolts and I tend to work slower to be through.

As for tricks/tips. Get the car as high as possible on the stands. This makes it a lot easier to get in/out from under the car during the operation. Hence the reason for the longer boom on the crane.

Have a good buddy to help. It really isn't safe by yourself (yes I know there are some out there that do it, IMO they are taking a chance). I do all of the prep work by myself. My Son helps me actually crane the motor in/out.

The top bolt of the starter is a real PIA. What works best for me is a 13MM flex socket and a very long extension. Access via the front through the K-member. The same 13MM flex socket will help with the two top bolts on the engine/transmission.

I do the engine/transmission separately (I know that many do them together). If done separately, get a screw style jack to support the transmission. Do not let it hang on the mounts. Same thing applies to the motor.

It is also possible to support the transmission with a piece of pipe between the frame rails.

For an automatic transmission, the engine will be easier to remove if the transmission mount is loosened and the transmission is slid back. Helps even more putting it back together.

If you ever had any thoughts about a tubular K-member, there is never a better time to install one than when the motor is out.

Plan on which sensors and gaskets are going to be replaced during the work. I always replace the oil pan gasket simply because I hate cars that leak oil on the garage floor. Not to mention it is so easy on the stand. Clean the oil pick up screen.

New front O2 sensors are a good idea if high mileage (100K+).

Motor mounts should be looked at closely. Especially if high mileage.

Consider having the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested. See Ultrasonic Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Testing for an example. Will be as good as new and give you the piece of mind at the same time.

When removing the engine, double check to be certain all wires have been removed. Lift a little and then re-check.

Upon installation, look for pinched wiring. During my first engine pull the O2 pig tale got crushed between the engine and transmission. Two days of diagnostic hell and repair work followed.

Did I mention to take pictures? Pictures will really help to get the wires routed correctly.

It is a lot of work while you are doing it. Afterwards, there is a real feeling of pride for a hard job completed. Good luck.

 

[bboylobo]

As to your question about how big of a deal is it to pull an engine. It is work. I have pulled two using stands and a crane in my drive way. To the guys that can do it in a couple of hours, my hats off to you. It takes me a good part of the weekend to get it out.

It takes me a major part of a weekend to get it back in. I find the re-assemble process takes longer because of the need to torque bolts and I tend to work slower to be through.

As for tricks/tips. Get the car as high as possible on the stands. This makes it a lot easier to get in/out from under the car during the operation. Hence the reason for the longer boom on the crane.

Have a good buddy to help. It really isn't safe by your self (yes I know there are some out there that do it, IMO they are taking a chance). I do all of the prep work by myself. My Son helps me actually crane the motor in/out.

The top bolt of the starter is a real PIA. What works best for me is a 13MM flex socket and a very long extension. Access via the front through the K-member. The same 13MM flex socket will help with the two top bolts on the engine/transmission.

I do the engine/transmission separately (I know that many do them together). If done separately, get a screw style jack to support the transmission. Do not let it hang on the mounts. Same thing applies to the motor.

It is also possible to support the transmission with a piece of pipe between the frame rails.

For an automatic transmission, the engine will be easier to remove if the transmission mount is loosened and the transmission is slid back. Helps even more putting it back together.

If you ever had any thoughts about a tubular K-member, there is never a better time to install one than when the motor is out.

Plan on which sensors and gaskets are going to be replaced during the work. I always replace the oil pan gasket simply because I hate cars that leak oil on the garage floor. Not to mention it is so easy on the stand. Clean the oil pick up screen.

New front O2 sensors are a good idea if high mileage (100K+).

Motor mounts should be looked at closely. Especially if high mileage.

Consider having the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested. See Ultrasonic Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Testing for an example. Will be as good as new and give you the piece of mind at the same time.

When removing the engine, double check to be certain all wires have been removed. Lift a little and then re-check.

Upon installation, look for pinched wiring. During my first engine pull the O2 pig tale got crushed between the engine and transmission. Two days of diagnostic and repair work followed.

Did I mention to take pictures? Pictures will really help to get the wires routed correctly.

It is a lot of work while you are doing it. Afterwards, there is a real feeling of pride for a hard job completed. Good luck.

Thanks

This is exactly the kind of information that i was looking for.

 

[ChillPhatCat]

As with any big automotive endeavor, be ready for it to take a lot longer than you expect... I'd say add about 10 hours of labor to your guess and then double that number. Someone telling you it's a 2 hour job is full of **** or they have a fully equipped garage and good help. The only engine I ever pulled was a 305 from my '84 Firebird (very easy car to work on, big open engine compartment) way back with one certified mechanic and me and my friend who were fairly mechanically inclined... we had a professional grade crane, a full set of metric/standard sockets and wrenches and a flatbed to put the engine on and didn't care at all about the car, as it was being junked after the pull... so we pulled the engine and tranny out together, and cut whatever wiring and hoses that got in the way... even then it was a 4 hour job.... the one thing you'll have on that firebird is that the bolts for the most part won't be rusted to hell.

 

[oxfordgt]

As with any big automotive endeavor, be ready for it to take a lot longer than you expect... I'd say add about 10 hours of labor to your guess and then double that number. Someone telling you it's a 2 hour job is full of **** or they have a fully equipped garage and good help. The only engine I ever pulled was a 305 from my '84 Firebird (very easy car to work on, big open engine compartment) way back with one certified mechanic and me and my friend who were fairly mechanically inclined... we had a professional grade crane, a full set of metric/standard sockets and wrenches and a flatbed to put the engine on and didn't care at all about the car, as it was being junked after the pull... so we pulled the engine and tranny out together, and cut whatever wiring and hoses that got in the way... even then it was a 4 hour job.... the one thing you'll have on that firebird is that the bolts for the most part won't be rusted to hell.

I build some of the fastest mustangs in my town and have pulled dozens of 4.6L engines in 2 hours without being ghetto and cutting crap. I can pull my entire car apart right down to just the body in 6 hours. Just because you can't do it doesn't mean others can't.

 

[oxfordgt]

And its all done in a 1 car garage with basic hand tools.