Pulling engine...what should I replace?

elite130 · Oct 24, 2007

I'm going to be pulling the engine out of my '88 LX auto this winter. I have a huge amount of oild buildup throughout the engine and transmission. I know I have to replace the valve cover gaskets, but while I'm at it, should I replace all gaskets? What other items should I fix/replace while the engine is out (other than a H/C/I swap)?

samickguy15 · Oct 24, 2007

I would clean the motor out really well. You may as well pop the whole thing apart and check bearings too. You could also have it hot tanked to clean all the sludge off. Gaskets all around would be good, that way you don't have to worry about it later.

cenok is family · Oct 24, 2007

man, you're pulling it out and tearing it down anyway, why not just do a rebuild on it? a complete felpro gasket kit is 100$, plasma moly rings for $100, P series clevite main and rod bearings for about $50 and cam bearings for $20. if your crank, rods, pistons and cylinder walls are still good, just get the crank journals polished, glaze bust the cylinders and throw everything back in with the new bearings, gaskets and seals.

ninety15.0 · Oct 24, 2007

Yup i think a $400 rebuilt kit is well worth your time and efforts if you are going to pull the motor to clean the oil mess and replace the VC gaskets. HAHA all of which could be done with the motor in the car. I think if your gonna pull it...you might as well re-ring and bearing it while your in there...then you have a bottom end ready for an HCI package down the road.

ShortThrow50 · Oct 24, 2007

How many miles on this engine?

elite130 · Oct 24, 2007

ShortThrow50 said:
How many miles on this engine?

103,8XX miles.

ShortThrow50 · Oct 24, 2007

I certainly wouldnt rebuild it then. Its finally just getting broken in. Just pull the engine and clean everything up with some wire wheels and some good paint. Change out whatever gaskets are leaking

Foxfan88 · Oct 24, 2007

if it doesnt need rebuilt i would at least replace all the seals and gaskets including the oil pan gasket, i would also replace the oil pump, and water pump too. both of which are cheap

mudmansfury · Oct 24, 2007

DO YOUR REAR MAIN SEAL TOO....LOL NO MATTER WHAT.

ShortThrow50 · Oct 25, 2007

mudmansfury said:
DO YOUR REAR MAIN SEAL TOO....LOL NO MATTER WHAT.

LOL. and use a teflon one too. Watch it leak again lol

88blacklx · Oct 25, 2007

ShortThrow50 said:
I certainly wouldnt rebuild it then. Its finally just getting broken in. Just pull the engine and clean everything up with some wire wheels and some good paint. Change out whatever gaskets are leaking

Granted 100,000 mile stangs still run really good and seem to not have a problem with mileage. but i wouldnt go so far to say its just gettin broken in
maybe if this were cumminsnet.com i would agree

ninety15.0 · Oct 25, 2007

haha good point. I doubt you have owned the car since mile 000 and know exactly how is has been maintained and driven its whole life. Therefore i would spend the 400 bucks for a master rebuild kit and go through the motor. Its such a pain in the ass to pull the motor that you might as well do it while you are in there.

ShortThrow50 · Oct 25, 2007

maybe its just me but I wouldnt touch the short block assembley if the cylinder walls look ok. Once you start replacing everything in there, you open up all whole new can of worms. sounds to me like he just wants to clean up the engine and bay a little for a little project during the winter.

porchstang · Oct 25, 2007

I agree with you ninety15.0 if you have the motor out you might as well rebuild it. And with that if you have a little bit of money that you can invest into the rebuild up grade the pistons and rods and put a girdle in. This way you know your bottom end is much stronger then stock and you can put a little happy gas or more power to her and not be scared of hurting her. You could do it for around 1K if you do all the work your self.

irish · Oct 25, 2007

I'd run a compression test on it, then make a decision.

Darkwriter77 · Oct 25, 2007

ShortThrow50 said:
LOL. and use a teflon one too. Watch it leak again lol

Sounds like a wise suggestion to me, as it's a lot easier to deal with when you've got it out of there and easily accessible. I don't see the point in knocking it.

FWIW, my Fel-Pro Teflon rear main seal hasn't leaked a drop in the two years since I replaced it.

ShortThrow50 · Oct 26, 2007

Darkwriter77 said:
Sounds like a wise suggestion to me, as it's a lot easier to deal with when you've got it out of there and easily accessible. I don't see the point in knocking it.

FWIW, my Fel-Pro Teflon rear main seal hasn't leaked a drop in the two years since I replaced it.

I wasnt knocking it. I was just laughing at the fact that my damn seal is leaking again. Could be my mistake while tryin to get it on. I dont care though cause it will stay that way. Im not touchin it

ninety15.0 · Oct 26, 2007

those damn RMS's....what a ****ty design.

elite130 · Oct 26, 2007

Thanks everyone for your input. Yes, my initial plan is to clean up the engine bay, but as things are looking, I may do a little more. I'm putting #'s together on how much it would be to build-up the lower end, replace all gaskets, new oil pump, and put new headers on, etc... I figure while I have it out, why not take care of everything else so I don't have to do it again.

Oh, BTW, I'm doing the compression check this weekend. That will really determine how far I go with this.

bloopbloob · Oct 26, 2007

ninety15.0 said:
those damn RMS's....what a ****ty design.

+1!!! i'm on my 3rd one in 3 years now!

Pulling engine...what should I replace?

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