Pushing Through My Clutch- Transmission Decisions

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Ok...so...today I drove Dusty for about an hour straight in stop and go traffic. It was great !!! Except, I noticed that at higher speeds my clutch started slipping. It just can't hold the power. Right now I'm using a Spec stage 2. In 1st and 2nd it isn't noticable... midway through 3rd it starts and 4th slips anytime the throttle is goosed. I've got a billet steel flywheel on the car. Guess I need to pony up and buy another clutch. I want a dual friction clutch but having issues finding one that'll fit the stock T5 bellhousing. That thing will be gone, too, but can't drop thousands on this right now.

Eventually, I want a dart block and at least a tko600.

What clutch is known to hold north of 450hp if mildly driven ???
 
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I don't know about a clutch for a 450 HP engine, but this is the dual friction clutch kit I got for my '86:



These are nice clutches. I would use this clutch on anything from a stock Mustang up through a modded N/A build and through a Centri Blower build. The setups that I would [not] use this clutch on (again at least, lol) is a turbo setup, roots, or twin-screw with a numerically low rear-end gear.
This clutch prefers a 3:55 or higher rear and like to spin in the medium to higher ranges. Not my first pick for a combo that generates a lot of torque down low.
 
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What does that mean?

I have never understood why some knuckle-dragging bonehead decided to rate his or her clutch by HorsePower.

I fI have a car that makes 600 HP but generates exactly dik for torque, I can use an OEM clutch. :shrug:


Sorry.... It's a 'Mike Like' Pet Peeve. LoL
Sorry boss.

It’ll hold 600ftlb fine. I make more than that with the nitrous and it holds good.

Better?
 
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It doesn't itch my brain [mechanically] in those terms. :coff:


I see clutch manufacturers do it all the time though... "Our clutch will hold XX HorzePowRz!"\

Me: :shrug:

It only holds that HorzePowRz if you put the manufacturer's decal on your radiator support. Keep you detailzz straight on your HorzePowRz claims man.....
 
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As some know my car is a truly built aluminum headed 331 stroker turbo car. Spending on a clutch to fit the t5 seems like a waste.

Anyone have a tko500 or 600 for sale ? Smh.
 
As some know my car is a truly built aluminum headed 331 stroker turbo car. Spending on a clutch to fit the t5 seems like a waste.

Anyone have a tko500 or 600 for sale ? Smh.


Yeah but... What tires are you running? Are you tracking the car?


 
Yeah but... What tires are you running? Are you tracking the car?



No tracking the car. Street driven. 275/35zr18s in the rear ( haven't ordered new tires yet ) on dry rotted street tires right now. Will probably be summitomo. Used to like nitto.
 
No tracking the car. Street driven. 275/35zr18s in the rear ( haven't ordered new tires yet ) on dry rotted street tires right now. Will probably be summitomo. Used to like nitto.


If it were me, I'd run a re-enforced T5 (maybe an Astro or G-Force), keep the light weight, fast and smooth shifting, and go with a clutch with some holding power.

The one I linked above has those properties. For you and me, it's all about clamping force until you get into multi-disk territory. Every multi-disk setup I've seen so far looked like a [huge] pain in the ass.

The one I recall from this very forum looks like a NASA effin docking procedure. :doh:
 
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If memory serves...When I had the red car, I had a centerforce dual friction clutch. The trans was a TR3650. The benefit to the DF clutch ( aside from twice the holding power) is pedal effort...which was next to nothing.
 
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I've got a bunch of experience setting up McLeod twin disc clutches. Everyone I know with a new edge or chevy runs them. Very easy pedal.

I've been thinking about putting a g force transmission together but not sure if the money justifies the time. I've built and repaired several t5s over the years.

My decisions are down to these...

Screenshot_20200809-214241_Chrome.jpg


Most expensive...out of stock. In stock equally expensive with 700 dollar bell housing...

Screenshot_20200809-214440_Chrome.jpg


Screenshot_20200809-214427_Chrome.jpg


Seems like it may be the cheapest with bell

Screenshot_20200809-214250_Chrome.jpg


Screenshot_20200809-214543_Chrome.jpg


Seems like the tko 600 might be the best option cost wise. Shifting can be a little notchy and noise isn't uncommon. The t56 would be my favorite option but only with the .50 6th gear. The astro a5 could use my existing bell and cross member....but the higher price and out of stock listing may push it out of the deal. I'll have to contact Astro tomorrow. Smh
 
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I've got a bunch of experience setting up McLeod twin disc clutches.


The rest of this thread is dead to me :ninja: Now that I know this, do not be surprised when some dude rolls up into your driveway with a clutch and some Mexican beer.

Right about the time you realize it's an 86 that you haven't seen around before is about the time, "That motha f-f-f....".
 
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Ok, it alive again....


I did not realize that Astro T5's were that much (these days or ever).

For the money, what's the down-side of the TKO?

All I know is that they can be notchy getting in gear...and I've seen a few that whine. That might be because of straight cut gears. Guys at the track used to always run them. It's the proven mustang transmission. The A5 is good too but dang the price is up there.

The G Force t5 is about 3500 as well.

I could sell my z spec t5 I've got sitting around to recoupe some money. I'd kinda hate to do that though.

I just don't want to buy a clutch that'll be worthless when I upgrade the transmission.

At this point I should order the Dart block so I can get stuff swapped over this winter.

Modern Driveline sent me a quote for the whole t56 install kit. It was just under 6k :puke: