question about 3g alt plug (aftermarket)

[timewarped1972]

i finally got around to getting a plug to replace the original one.

i have seen these plugs from another manufacturer (fordfuelinjection.com i believe) with the ring terminals already connected on the yellow wire, and with those you just bolt it to the power lug on the alt.

the one i received doesn't have the ring terminal, it's intended to splice in to the existing yellow wire ( w/ white stripe). i assume i can just put a ring terminal on this and bolt it under the power lug on the back of the alt like the other aftermarket plugs i see that have the ring terminal?? i would like to do it this way that way i can totally disconnect the green wire ( which is coming from the black/orange strip wires) at the starter selenoid.

View attachment 485332

 

[PRO50SC]

Is this for a fox body conversion. Cuz if it is, I believe it's the wrong connector.

This should help you out

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index2.shtml

The plug you have pictured White / balck tracer, goes to the single connection to the alt. It attaches to the small wire from the feed plug off the 2g. The regulator harness goes untouched. It is the same for either alternator. Pictured below shows the 2 power wires and the small one that connects to the white /black.

 

[timewarped1972]

yes it is........i bought it from 5.0 resto, it's a pa performance wire......it even came with directions for a 3 g swap with it.......it fits in the alt where the old one goes.......

i'm not doing that deal in the article where they re connect those black and oranges......in the article they did it where you splice into the existing wires, i'm not needing to do that, i wanna do it so that black and oranges arent connected to the starter selenoid anymore. the only diff between this wire and the other one is it doesnt have the eyelet on the yellow wire, and it has a diff connector for the green bat wire. which is supposed to bolt to the back of the power lug if you no longer use the black and oranges and disconect them at the selenoid...

basically i'm wondering if i can add the eyelet and use it like this harness here http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67

 

[PRO50SC]

Take a good look at the link I posted. It's very straight forward.

 

[PRO50SC]

Well where does all that connect to? It looks like your trying to do it the hard way to me. Mine is set up like the article w/ the exception of the added 4 guage power wire and have had no problems what so ever.

 

[PRO50SC]

There is no need for that extra 3 wire connector oyu have. The old one connects directly into the alt w/o modification.

 

[HISSIN50]

TW, I know exactly what you are doing - you want to mimic the connector that Kevin used.

I dont want to speak out of school, but what you have planned should work.

Bernie, he is simply replacing an old connector - it has nothing to do with the retrofit.

 

[HISSIN50]

The pictures here are kinda what you want to do with your harness, if I am reading ya right.

 

[PRO50SC]

TW, I know exactly what you are doing - you want to mimic the connector that Kevin used.

I dont want to speak out of school, but what you have planned should work.

Bernie, he is simply replacing an old connector - it has nothing to do with the retrofit.

NP! I was just trying to find out why. It's one thing if the one he has is damaged but if not, why change it? That's the only point I'm tryin' to make. Seems like extra work for the same end result.

 

[timewarped1972]

yeah see, if you want to bypass all that factory wiring, you have to run that yellow wire to the back of the alt power lug........it actually intersects those black and oranges.

i originally did it kinda like the article minus connecting the black and oranges.

then, hissin you may remeber, a couple weeks ago i had some weird issue with my batt light comming on, turns out it's that stock plug, the wires have a short or something cuz when i'd touch them the alt would start charging, so i said screw it, and bought this new plug and since i did that i'm just gonna get rid of the old wiring.....

the only original wire from that harness i should need is the green one, that goes to the batt light.

this new plug i have looks like that other one people have used but it doesn't have the eyelet for bolting to the back of the alt......i just wanted to make sure there wasn't any resistor or fuse link or anything in that yellow wire on that other brand plug.......and that it would be ok to basically use this plug like the one i gave the link to at fuelinjection.com....

 

[PRO50SC]

Then it shopuld be ok. I didn't know the whole story. See, there's always a method to someones madness!!!

 

[HISSIN50]

Bernie, we are seeing irony at work here. I saw things the way you do in TW's original thread (I didnt understand why Kevin was doing things his way, but then saw his engine bay - hardly a visible wire anywhere).
I dont have a showcar engine bay, so I was thinking purely about a clean install in terms of logistics, not aesthetics. I see where you were coming from now (simply wondering about why this was being done).

TW, should you decide to ever get that FFI connector, Kevin replied to a PM I sent and he had nothing but good things to say about his experience with FFI. At the time of his reply, I had just placed an order with a resto house for the connector like you got though, so I figure next time I might try the FFI piece (it looks pretty robust. The wiring in my 94 is vulcanized, so robust is good).

 

[luckythirteen13]

where do the two black/orange wires go from the alt? i thought if you have the 4g cable you can elliminate the two black/orange wires but that article says to attach them with the 4g, why?

 

[timewarped1972]

thanks guys

lucky.......you can eliminate the black and oranges from the back of the alternator.......just dont re connect them......

but.........theres a yellow wire white stripe that comes of your stock alt plug. that joins into the black oranges later on in that harness. those then connect to a green wire that connects to the starter selenoid.....if you want to remove that wire from the selenoid you have to connect that yellow wire to the back of the charge lug on the alt......otherwise, you have to leave that green wire on the selenoid......but can still not connect the black and oranges.......

it's confusing......basically in a nut shell......thos black and oranges, and that yellow are all joined.......to a wire that connects to the selenoid....

as for all the instructions and articles about re attatching the black and oranges to the alt when you already have a 4 ga power wire is beyond me......theres no need for it and it's safer not too.....

 

[timewarped1972]

well it's done, nothing fried, so it must be good to go.......

i appreciate the input....i know it's confusing, there's a few different ways to do this and.....i swear......we need a 3g sticky in here....

whats more confusing is different articles describe it differently, some say re attatch the wires, some say dont, then theres the total way which is basically using none of the old wiring at all except for the green battery light wire.

my confusion in this instance was would the plug i bought serve the same funtion as that other one......apparently it will. the only main difference is it does not have an eyelet on the yellow wire, and the green wire splices directly in instead of having that nifty connector like the one from ford fuel injection.com.

one note though. the plug i bought does have a resistor at the end of the green wire ( see slight bulge in the photo)so you don't wanna cut that wire short to splice it in to the exisiting green wire. that was my concern about the yellow wire, that in cutting the end off and putting an eyelet on it may remove a resistor or fusible link of some kind....but that wasnt the case.....and because i hooked that yellow wire to the power lug on the alt, i removed the green wire at the selenoid ( which again ties directly into the yellow wire and black and oranges) so nothing to do with those damn black and oranges is connected to the car anymore

 

[HISSIN50]

one note though. the plug i bought does have a resistor at the end of the green wire ( see slight bulge in the photo)so you don't wanna cut that wire short to splice it in to the exisiting green wire. that was my concern about the yellow wire, that in cutting the end off and putting an eyelet on it may remove a resistor or fusible link........

Interesting. I bought 2 replacement regulator plugs from LRS and they came with unfinished ends and no resistor or anything like that.

 

[timewarped1972]

that is interesting......for that green wire?? it even says in the instructions dont chop it....are those plugs 2g replacement plugs or 3g conversion plugs?? this one was or said it was a 3 g converion plug....maybe theres something buried down stream in that wiring harness........hmmmmmmmm, one could about write a book on this

 

[timewarped1972]

according to this there is a 500 ohm resister in line somewhere....

 

[luckythirteen13]

the yellow wire runs to the starter solinoid? on mine i have that white wire connected on its own, a plug that has 3 wires hooked to my regulator and then a 2g wire that runs from the alt to the hatch where the battery is. if the yellow is hooked to the starter solinoid i cant have that cause it would bypass my killswitch.
dont even remember a yellow wire when i did it but after having the 3g in for about a year ive blown 2 regs in about a week. its puring rain so i cant go look at it. right now im working on grounding it all out better. my battery did read 16v when tested with a volt meter which makes me think the alt is over charging. it worked fine for over a year as it sits now all of a sudden im having problems

 

[HISSIN50]

that is interesting......for that green wire?? it even says in the instructions dont chop it....are those plugs 2g replacement plugs or 3g conversion plugs?? this one was or said it was a 3 g converion plug....maybe theres something buried down stream in that wiring harness........hmmmmmmmm, one could about write a book on this

I might be clouding the water because I was actually talkin about the wiring on the 94GT, but the plug should be the same for both.

The resistor for the fox wiring is in case the battery light burns out IIRC. And I also thought (like you TW) that it was buried further downstream in the wiring (I actually thought it was much much further downstream).

I didnt peel enough of the stock harness insulation away to see if the green wire had a resistor further down (I only circumvented the bad section, so I actually have longer wires now, which was done by design).

I know it just had bare ends on the new plug though.