question about breaking a new car in...

[97rioreddohc]

I barely have 1500 mi on my new shortblock...here is how I broke my motor in...

1) for the 1st 500 mi I drove the car very conservatively...nothing past 5k rpms

2) After 500-1k nothing past 6k

3) 1,000 mi and up 6k+rpms...no redline...

I'm changing the oil this weekend...oh and I didn't start banging gears until about 990 miles and I haven't even power shifted it yet... I pretty much just gathered little bits of info of what sounded to be the most credible info and made my own method up....no problems yet..

 

[Route666]

I would consider changing the oil soon after the first time you give the car a bit of hard work, to keep the oil as clean as possible.

Also, for longevity, consider getting an oil accumulator, this will give you oil pressure before startup, and give you continuous pressure if the pickup runs out of oil.

 

[Saleen201]

So Mike, it looks like I was right.

Its rare

I kinda feel the same way you do... drive it like your normally do, i just dont go bouncing it off the red line the first day i own it. I have never really been easy on any vehicle. My dad always gets pissed when i do wheelies in the lawn mower

-Mike

 

[01'TRUE BLUE GT]

Not crap if you plan on making one go the long distance. When I mean go the long distance Im talking 150-200k and still not having any problems no oil leaks and no oil consumption! That is why you break them in. If you trade it off early then yeah beat it up.

Driving your new car like a pansy doesn't make it go the long distance ... proper maintenance does. So I'll see ya in about another 123k miles when I hit 150k with mine.

 

[DerekStangGT]

Well, I'm never one to start or jump in on a flame war, but I have to respectfully disagree with a few things posted here.

First, if there is EVER metal to metal contact with any of the reciprocating parts of an engine, it's dead within moments of that happening. Those components ride on a microscopic layer of oil, not in contact.

okay......youre right, metal NEVER touches metal in an engine
OF COURSE IT DOES!!!!!

where do we find these guys, the ricer forums??

 

[matty50racer]

okay......youre right, metal NEVER touches metal in an engine
OF COURSE IT DOES!!!!!

where do we find these guys, the ricer forums??

If metal actualy touched metal in an angine it would sieze. That is what happens when clearances are too tight or you run out of oil, there is metal to metal contact and the motor siezes.

If a motor could run with actual metal to metal contact than why do we need oil?

 

[Route666]

It takes a couple of seconds of metal on metal to seize, it doesn't just touch and instantly melt together.

 

[jcp123]

you can rev it as hard as you like and drive it as hard as you like. the trick is not to KEEP the engine pegged over 4000rpm for too too long and to vary your speeds. change your oil regularly. other than that you don't have to be too ginger with it

 

[DerekStangGT]

If metal actualy touched metal in an angine it would sieze. That is what happens when clearances are too tight or you run out of oil, there is metal to metal contact and the motor siezes.

If a motor could run with actual metal to metal contact than why do we need oil?

then when you change the oil in an engine for the first time, why are there metal shavings in the oil? seems to me there is metal scraping against metal in order to get the shavings. i dont mean to deviate from the subject, the point is, he needs to drive slowly during the first stage of his car's life, i.e. 1-2k miles. here is a link to howstuffworks.com, notice the pic about halfway down the page, it is a pic of a typical 4 stroke engine. notice all the metal rubbing together.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

also notice how the coolent is on the outside of the piston. its job is to keep the engine cool from the friction (and combustion of course). where is the friction from? metal to metal contact
i rest my case until proof is given i am wrong

:OT: btw, i cant decide if the changes to stangnet are cool, or will take some getting used to.

 

[LuvNLife]

okay......youre right, metal NEVER touches metal in an engine
OF COURSE IT DOES!!!!!

where do we find these guys, the ricer forums??

No, no ricer forum, actually. But, coming from someone such as yourself, with more money in their "system", then their mods, one might question you on the same thing.

Tell ya what. Drain all the oil from your engine. Flush it well with solvents. Fire it up, and let it run for about 10 minutes. There's your metal on metal contact for you. Let me know how well it runs after that, OK?

Show or explain to me, ANY reciprocating internal component that makes metal to metal contact WITHOUT some form of lubrication. Even the oil scraper ring rides in a bore that's LUBRICATED. Do you honestly believe that main bearings, rod bearings, wrist pins, and on and on, are not lubricated, and truly are metal-on-metal? Does your 'Stang have that one of a kind, factory experimental special NASCAR valvetrain in it that doesn't need oiling? Darned - I wish I could have gotten that one.

Take a couple of chill pills, Bubba. Before you try to bust on somebody, be damned sure you have your facts straight. Maybe you've been beating your head into too many walls like your smileys...

Jerry

 

[DerekStangGT]

No, no ricer forum, actually. But, coming from someone such as yourself, with more money in their "system", then their mods, one might question you on the same thing.

Tell ya what. Drain all the oil from your engine. Flush it well with solvents. Fire it up, and let it run for about 10 minutes. There's your metal on metal contact for you. Let me know how well it runs after that, OK?

Show or explain to me, ANY reciprocating internal component that makes metal to metal contact WITHOUT some form of lubrication. Even the oil scraper ring rides in a bore that's LUBRICATED. Do you honestly believe that main bearings, rod bearings, wrist pins, and on and on, are not lubricated, and truly are metal-on-metal? Does your 'Stang have that one of a kind, factory experimental special NASCAR valvetrain in it that doesn't need oiling? Darned - I wish I could have gotten that one.

Take a couple of chill pills, Bubba. Before you try to bust on somebody, be damned sure you have your facts straight. Maybe you've been beating your head into too many walls like your smileys...

Jerry

oy, this is getting ugly. never intended that. i want to apologize for my harsh wording in one of my recent posts about the ricer forum thing. had a bad day. anyway, im not denying, nor have i ever denied that there is no lubrication between the metal to metal contact. of course there is. all im saying is the metal shavings in the first oil change are proof that during the fist 1-2k miles of the car's life, it is not running like it will be for the rest of its days. there is some rubbing that is not "normal". this means that he needs to drive his brand new gt reasonably for the first couple thousand miles. then after the oil change at ~2000-2500k miles, then he can start to get on it and maybe take it to redline, depending on how he feels. and yeah, i know i have more money in audio than performance, but while my dad still limits "modding", its the only thing i can do. and this doesnt mean i dont know jack about engines, nor does it mean im a ricer.

 

[Saleen201]

Jerry,

Let me get this straight. You honestly think that the metal parts in your engine NEVER come in contact with each other and the oil crates a barrier/seal between all parts? If this was true then why is there engine wear? Why is it when you disassemble an older engine you can feel a lip on the top of the cyl wall near the head wear the piston has been moving up and down? Why is it when you remove a valve train, or pistons it is best to put them back where you got them? In the same order that you found them. That is because the parts wear together. I don’t think oil is going to create that wear! That wear comes from metal on metal contact, therefore, that alone is proof that the metal surfaces touch.

We are NOT saying that the engine will run without oil. What my point and I am sure I can speak for everyone else, is that the engine oil crates a slick surface between metal surfaces. Making a slick surface reduces friction, and heat. That is how the metal parts can move along each other and not cause excessive wear or heat. That is the exact purpose of oil, along with the detergents to clean the parts.

I am not flaming you (in case you think I was), but rather, just trying to set some stuff straight.

-Mike

 

[DerekStangGT]

Jerry,

Let me get this straight. You honestly think that the metal parts in your engine NEVER come in contact with each other and the oil crates a barrier/seal between all parts? If this was true then why is there engine wear? Why is it when you disassemble an older engine you can feel a lip on the top of the cyl wall near the head wear the piston has been moving up and down? Why is it when you remove a valve train, or pistons it is best to put them back where you got them? In the same order that you found them. That is because the parts wear together. I don’t think oil is going to create that wear! That wear comes from metal on metal contact, therefore, that alone is proof that the metal surfaces touch.

We are NOT saying that the engine will run without oil. What my point and I am sure I can speak for everyone else, is that the engine oil crates a slick surface between metal surfaces. Making a slick surface reduces friction, and heat. That is how the metal parts can move along each other and not cause excessive wear or heat. That is the exact purpose of oil, along with the detergents to clean the parts.

I am not flaming you (in case you think I was), but rather, just trying to set some stuff straight.

-Mike

well said