QUESTION ABOUT TIMING

FITTY

New Member
Dec 1, 2006
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DO YOU PUT THE SPOUT BACK IN WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING?
WITHOUT THE SPOUT I GET IT RIGHT AT 13, BUT WHEN I PUT THE CONNECTOR BACK IN IT MOVES UP TO 18-19.
(1987 GT COUPE)..
 
HOW DO YOU KNOW IF IT IS RUNNING RICH?
WHEN I STAND BEHIND MY CAR IT SMELLS AND MY EYES START GETTING WATER -E-
I JUST INSTALLED A 70 BBK THROTTLE BODY AND THEY SAID THAT IDLE SCREW WAS ALREADY PRESET.
 
i dont know if this applies to your problem or not, but when i had a 94 tbird 4.6 , the mass air sensor itself was dirty and was smoking with the smell of raw fuel from the exhaust. bought a can of electrical contact cleaner and cured it.

from what i've dealt with on fox 5.O's 14-17* base timing with octane spout plugged in is ideal for a stock to mild setup. should be around 10-12* with it unhooked.

since im new to the site a list of your mods would help to know what might be the problem.


mike
 
from what i've dealt with on fox 5.O's 14-17* base timing with octane spout plugged in is ideal for a stock to mild setup. should be around 10-12* with it unhooked.


mike

Mike, I thought you were going to say Octane rod - that's old-timer talk. :D

Random thoughts to the guy who types in all caps:
Turn caps off.
If you dont have cats, even lean stoichiometry can 'smell' rich. It's part of having no catalyzation occuring.

GTO is right about the TB.

Seeing timing jump about 6-12* once you plug the SPOUT connector back in is about normal.

I'd pull codes first. Something regarding a rich mixture can often be in the form of a soft code.

And cleaning the MAS like Mike mentioned is never a bad idea.

Good luck.
 
i dont know if this applies to your problem or not, but when i had a 94 tbird 4.6 , the mass air sensor itself was dirty and was smoking with the smell of raw fuel from the exhaust. bought a can of electrical contact cleaner and cured it.

from what i've dealt with on fox 5.O's 14-17* base timing with octane spout plugged in is ideal for a stock to mild setup. should be around 10-12* with it unhooked.

since im new to the site a list of your mods would help to know what might be the problem.


mike
THE ONLY THING THE ENGINE HAS RIGHT NOW IS THE 70MM BBK THROTTLE BODY, BBK SHORTYS, AND AN OFF ROAD H PIPE.
MY CAR IS AN 1987 FOX AND I WAS TOLD THAT THEY DID NOT HAVE A MAF


IM NEW TO THE 5.0 ENGINE SO SORRY FOR ASKING STUPID ASS QUESTIONS..............:shrug:
 
Mike, I thought you were going to say Octane rod - that's old-timer talk. :D

Random thoughts to the guy who types in all caps:
Turn caps off.
If you dont have cats, even lean stoichiometry can 'smell' rich. It's part of having no catalyzation occuring.

GTO is right about the TB.

Seeing timing jump about 6-12* once you plug the SPOUT connector back in is about normal.

I'd pull codes first. Something regarding a rich mixture can often be in the form of a soft code.

And cleaning the MAS like Mike mentioned is never a bad idea.

Good luck.
i was told that 1987 -1988 mustangs did not have maf
 
i was told that 1987 -1988 mustangs did not have maf

You're correct - from the factory they did not. Many factory SD cars are converted to MAF but I appear to have missed the boat on realizing you had a SD stang. Disregard the MAF mentionings.
Apologies and good luck.
 
i set my idle to about 13* and tighten everything plug the spout connector and
now the rpm's seem to stay right a 1 grand is that normal range or is that to high

how do i change my car to a maf
 
It depends upon several variables as to where your idle will be. 1K RPM is not unreasonable however.

Converting to MAF is something I personally would not do until modifications make it a cost-effective tool. Said another way, the conversion itself does not free up any power, and SD works great on its own.

Good luck.