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Question About Welders/Welding

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 87397
  • Start date Start date Apr 6, 2008
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Deleted member 87397

Apr 6, 2008
#1
  • Apr 6, 2008
  • #1
Ok this seems more tech to me than talk so here it is in Tech. Here's the deal. Right now I have the whole rearend and rear suspension out of my car. While I was under there cleaning things up today I really paid attention to how crappy everything is welded under there and how everything is just sheet metal folds that are spot welded. I decided I'd like to weld up all the seams under there to add some strength and rigidity. The metal seems a bit flimsy so I was wondering if anyone has ever welded up all the seams on the rear half, and if so what kind of welder is the best to use. I'm looking at buying a welder and learning and I'd like to get something that can handle this job.
 

bloopbloob

Member
Sep 27, 2006
578
4
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Alberta
Apr 6, 2008
#2
  • Apr 6, 2008
  • #2
to be honest, i think you'd be wasting your time. i don't see much benefit in doing this, especially for the all the prep and hassle it's going to take...

but anyways, if you're set on it, i suggest you get a mig (metal inert gas) welder... (lincoln or Miller if you ask me, with miller as my personal preference) as for what type, that all depends on your budget and what you MAY want to do with it in the future also. you don't need a very big welder to weld sheet metal, but you may find you like it and want to tackle bigger projects.....
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 6, 2008
#3
  • Apr 6, 2008
  • #3
Well the reason I was considering doing it is because I'm going to be putting down 600+ to the wheels eventually when I get my final combo setup. I just want to make sure this thing is solid in every possible way.
 

bloopbloob

Member
Sep 27, 2006
578
4
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Alberta
Apr 6, 2008
#4
  • Apr 6, 2008
  • #4
i really don't think welding the seams is going to help much though. unless you notice the spot welds cracking or something, i think you'd be much better off to invest your time and money elsewhere. the seams don't appear to be a high stress point... and i dont think welding them would add much if any benefit. maybe i'm wrong, but just my 2c....
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 6, 2008
#5
  • Apr 6, 2008
  • #5
thanks for the input.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Apr 7, 2008
#6
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #6
Something like a Hobart Handler 140 is nice, I would weld the Seams, but also add Battle Boxes and SFCs if you dont already have them.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 7, 2008
#7
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #7
I've got battle boxes and SFC's going in with the rear suspension job. Thanks for the input.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Apr 7, 2008
#8
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #8
reinforcing the torque boxes and stuff definatly wont hurt anything. so i'd say go for it. get a nice little mig welder and prep the metal good. dont get too crazy with it wont take weld metal to really stiffen things up.

be sure to be careful not to burn the carpet in the car.
 

rd

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2000
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Ocean Springs MS
Apr 7, 2008
#9
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #9
In my experience, completely welding the body seams, and especially the torque box mountings, is an excellent way to beef the body.

Guys have been doing this long before torque box reinforcements were common, as well as in conjunction with installing them.

Its a good idea. If you weld them up, you save weight over just adding the reinforcements.

Road racers do more of this to the rockers and front than drag guys do, but it's a good idea.
 
L

lang williams

New Member
Jun 11, 2003
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cleveland, oh
Apr 7, 2008
#10
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #10
i picked up a cheapie from harbor freight flux wire 90 amp welder to do this. off subject, but how much power do you need to be making before you need to weld up your axle tubes? or if u never use dr's you don't need to?
 
J

jozan

New Member
Aug 26, 2005
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Apr 7, 2008
#11
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #11
i have been welding in a drag shop for 15+ years and all the mustangs that come in get the seams welded we have a miller 170 i like to use on them the biggest thing is grinding the galvinize off to get a good weld it surley wont hurt to do it i have see a couple loose the whole rear end at the track not pretty
 

satanas

Member
Dec 16, 2005
156
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19
Arizona
Apr 7, 2008
#12
  • Apr 7, 2008
  • #12
I bought mine at The Home Depot for 400 bucks.Its great for your project it weld up to 1/4 inch of steel you don't need a tank to put on there unless you want to upgrade it. Its a LIncoln welder.Ive been using it on my stang to weld.
 

goodfastncheap

Member
Dec 25, 2006
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Bellevue, NE
Apr 8, 2008
#13
  • Apr 8, 2008
  • #13
I welded my seams with an inexpensive 110V MIG. Practice on a LOT of 16 ga. first. Get the power and the feed set just right.

It's easy even for a noob like me to weld when you're comfortable, welding flat, right side up. With the TB's you are going to be under the car in all sorts of tight, awkward positions - that was the biggest challenge for me.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 8, 2008
#14
  • Apr 8, 2008
  • #14
Hey thanks for all the replies everyone. I've really been wanting to get a welder and learn how to do it so I don't always have to take it places to get stuff welded so I think I might get me a mig and start learning. Then I can hit all my seams after I've practiced sufficiently.
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
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Morganton, NC
Apr 8, 2008
#15
  • Apr 8, 2008
  • #15
I've been using the Hobart Handler 140, with flux core .030. It has done great to shave the engine bay, and weld up exaust pipes. It also comes with a regulator if you want to hook up gas later. It sells at Northern Tool for about $465 I think, I got mine NIB for $400 shipped off Ebay though.
 
J

Joey7508

Member
Oct 23, 2005
198
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Kerrville TX
Apr 8, 2008
#16
  • Apr 8, 2008
  • #16
I like MIG. Its simple I have a little110v 135 lincon from homedepot and a big take of shield gas, the tank last a long time. Its good for sheetmetal up to 1/4 or so. I borrow a 220 hobart for bigger stuff. I would go with a little one to start out with, but I prefer MIG over flux core myself.
 
J

Joey7508

Member
Oct 23, 2005
198
0
17
Kerrville TX
Apr 8, 2008
#17
  • Apr 8, 2008
  • #17
Alot of small welders can be set for either flux or gas by the way. I just use the gas all the time on mine. Just make sure you have the option.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,359
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Ohio
Apr 9, 2008
#18
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #18
Hickfied said:
I've been using the Hobart Handler 140, with flux core .030. It has done great to shave the engine bay, and weld up exaust pipes. It also comes with a regulator if you want to hook up gas later. It sells at Northern Tool for about $465 I think, I got mine NIB for $400 shipped off Ebay though.
Click to expand...


I got mine from Northern for a little over $400 and it came with a free cart, I like it alot.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Apr 9, 2008
#19
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #19
Ok I've got it narrowed down to the Hobart Handler 140 and the Lincoln SP-135T. They both seem excellent and perfect for me just starting out. Any convincing arguements to pick one over the other? With me being a novice to welding, is one friendlier than the other? Thanks.
 

68converted

Member
Nov 19, 2003
772
0
16
Colorado
Apr 9, 2008
#20
  • Apr 9, 2008
  • #20
I have the 135 from Lincoln with the MIG setup, from Home Depot. I had been doing welding on various stuff/tools for my company. I had welded a ton of stuff. I got a piece of advice from a guy that sells the gas I use for MIG. He told me that I needed to slow down the speed of the wire, and drop the voltage to get the deepest welds.

I was amazed by this little kernal of knowledge. I started to make some really cool looking welds, just like the pro's. I brought him a sample piece and he cut it apart; said that it was picture perfect. Unless you are going to be doing frame rails, either unit you listed last will be great. Just get the gas setup if you can afford it. Much cleaner welds in my opinion.
 
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