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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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question on driveline angle

  • Thread starter Thread starter wicked93gs
  • Start date Start date Jun 17, 2009

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jun 17, 2009
#1
  • Jun 17, 2009
  • #1
alright, right now as it sits my DOHC 4.6L engine with T45 tranny in my '66 sits at 4 degrees....I know the reccomended angle is 2-3 degrees...which is what I am trying to achieve...the 4 degrees I currently have is with the stock "floor support" or transmission crossmember still in place...so it looks like I will have to remove it(or at least cut out the top)...not a big deal to me...I am wondering however how much structural support I will lose by cutting it...keep in mind the new transmission mount on the T45 will bolt to a new bolt-in crossmember that will bolt to the frame rails similar to what a fox-body mustang has, so hopefully I will retain some strength that way...I am more concerned because my catalogs list it as a "floor support" I am wondering if without it the floor will weaken...if I had to guess I would say no(not to any real degree), but I just dont know...I am making all the mounts and crossmembers i need myself, so suggestions to increase the strength are welcome, suggestions to buy something I can make myself are...not so welcome
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Jun 17, 2009
#2
  • Jun 17, 2009
  • #2
Can you lower the engine to help ?
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jun 17, 2009
#3
  • Jun 17, 2009
  • #3
engine is already as low as possible with the oil filter/water outlet assembly just 3/16" above the steering rack, besides I already made the passenger side engine mount bracket with that in mind...though I may re-design the mounts if I find a better way to do it
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
1,260
3
39
Hagerstown, MD
Jun 17, 2009
#4
  • Jun 17, 2009
  • #4
You can notch the floor support for the added clearence. There was a thread awhile back that showed some good pictures. On T-5 conversions, I notch the floor support and weld a flat plate back up into the section that is notched out. Use a heavy plate, at least 3/16" plate. If you don't feel that is sufficient, and I would probably do this for your application, you can get some wide C channel or fab up something that works, and weld some bracing across the top where the floor support was notched. But that is probably overkill.

Found the thread:
http://forums.stangnet.com/765879-tko600-install.html

There is a picture in that thread of the floor support notched out. Nice clean job too. You can see that one side is left intact. You can cut allthe way accross if you need the clearance. Just weld it up completely.
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Jun 19, 2009
#5
  • Jun 19, 2009
  • #5
4 degrees might not cause you any problems. I would drive it first before cutting the tunnel.
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Jun 20, 2009
#6
  • Jun 20, 2009
  • #6
From my research, (not experience) you want to concentrate more on making sure your rear end is parallel.

in other words, if your engine/trans sits at + 4, then put your rear end at -4. you can get wedges for your leafs to adjust pinion angle back there.

4 degrees doesn't sound bad at all
 
C

C0V3R

Member
Feb 14, 2003
524
0
16
Australia
Jun 20, 2009
#7
  • Jun 20, 2009
  • #7
v8only is 100% correct about getting the pinion angle matched up - its all about the working angle of the uni joints, not the angle that the engine/trans sit at.
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,198
229
93
Nashville TN
Jun 20, 2009
#8
  • Jun 20, 2009
  • #8
thanks for the advice guys, I can live with 4 degrees I guess, though slight notching of the crossmember will still be needed just so the top of the tranny doesn't rub while the engine is running...but 1/4" or so should do the trick
 
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