Questions abouit Nittos...

[The Green GT]

Ok. Im thinking about getting some drag radials and leaving them on my car. Not just throwing them on when I go to the track. So I have some questions.
First off how bad are they in the rain? I cant really see them being much worse than the tires I have now.

Secondly how long would some 315's last on my car? I drive it ALOT.

Third, how big are the 315 really? Ive heard that they arent a true 315.

Thanks

 

[Italian-LX]

My experience is that the 555R's work really well in the rain until you get down to 1/3 of the tread left -- that should take about 8,000 mile with some light track duty.

I have gotten 14,000 miles out of a set of 555R's, but they were pretty close to bald when I finally trashed them. Not fun in the rain at that point either.

 

[The Green GT]

Damn. 8,000 miles... Those tires wouldnt last me but 6-8 months.

Guess Ill stick with the ****ty Sumitomos.

 

[diablostang]

The Nitto is the best daily driver DR. I've daily driven with Nitto DR's on 2 different cars in the winter, and never had one problem. They will wear quickly though, especially if you do much driving. I don't put a lot of miles on my cars, so I can squeeze a year of daily driving out of mine as long as I don't burn much off.

For now, as close to stock as your car is, a DR isn't going to help you as much as spending the $$ in other mods.

 

[The Green GT]

For now, as close to stock as your car is, a DR isn't going to help you as much as spending the $$ in other mods.

Yea, but right now I have traction issues with the Sumitomos. And once I put my 3.73's in I cant see them getting any better.

 

[Italian-LX]

Damn. 8,000 miles... Those tires wouldnt last me but 6-8 months.

Guess Ill stick with the ****ty Sumitomos.

It's always a trade-off; performance ain't cheap.

Why drop money into more horsepower if your not going to spend any more on getting it to the ground?

 

[stprorolla49]

ive had mine for about 6 months now and they were at about 75% tread when i got them, and they are only worn down a bit less now...and ive driven about 2k miles, and about 30 passes on them with burnouts too...i also drive them in the rain all the time and to be honest, they are significantly better in the rain than my 245/45/17 Pirellis were...just my .02

 

[Black95GTS]

I've told this story a bunch of times, here it goes again...

Back when I was young and foolish, I was grabbing gears at some stupid Honda off a red light and actually bent an axle with nitto drs. I took them off and switched to Pirellis.

I would never run DRs again unless I had an aftemarket diff and axles. My .02.

Adam

 

[The Green GT]

I've told this story a bunch of times, here it goes again...

Back when I was young and foolish, I was grabbing gears at some stupid Honda off a red light and actually bent an axle with nitto drs. I took them off and switched to Pirellis.

I would never run DRs again unless I had an aftemarket diff and axles. My .02.

Adam

I am atleast getting some Superior 28 Splines. And if money allows Ill get an entire 31 spline setup.

 

[Adam95GT]

i dont have any problems with my sumo's a little slippery in the rain but other wise no problems
-adam

 

[bill302]

a few friends of mine including one that owns a few drag cars and sells tires at his shop insist that BF goodrich drag radials are much more superior to the nittos so superior he has a set of nittos on the shelf for the last year with the BF goodrich drag radials on his cars...i know that the BF goodrich drag radials are auesome off the line a friend of min cuts his time about 1/2 a second and runs a 1.7 60' with the BFGs on his 02 stang stock with 4:30 gears. but i would not use these tires for a daily driver...i'm going to get some and mount them on seperate rims believe me its worth it.....some people say a gear upgrade is the cheapest and best bang for the buck upgrade for the price i dont believe it, a set of drag radials are the best and biggest upgrade you can make for the money...

 

[Italian-LX]

a few friends of mine including one that owns a few drag cars and sells tires at his shop insist that BF goodrich drag radials are much more superior to the nittos...

Sure, they are superior as far as traction goes.

. . . but they suck as far as wet roads and treadwear go. Since the original poster is wanting a set of daily driving tires that will last a little while, he should be more interested in the Nittos over the BFG's.

 

[bill302]

Sure, they are superior as far as traction goes.

. . . but they suck as far as wet roads and treadwear go. Since the original poster is wanting a set of daily driving tires that will last a little while, he should be more interested in the Nittos over the BFG's.

i would not use either as a daily driver tire...Italian-LX,how yo doing neighbor..i have seen you on other boards....i guess we will meet someday maybe at the dragon.....take care

 

[diablostang]

Yea, but right now I have traction issues with the Sumitomos. And once I put my 3.73's in I cant see them getting any better.

Still not to the point where you need a DR on the street. Look at all the 03/04 Cobras off the showroom floor. It's pretty normal for them to dyno between 380 and 390 at the WHEELS factory, and they don't have DR's stock, nor do 90% of the owners run DR's on the street. My Dad owned a 03 Cobra for a while, and I drove it as well. They have a TON of low-hitting HP, which is where a DR or slick is needed the most.

My black 347 car had the same tires you had too, so I know what they're like, just learn to pedal the car. Heck, my Cobra on DR's has no better traction than my 347 car did with the Sumitomo's. Still gotta pedal that car too.

Oh and it might help you out to look into some suspension stuff. I had some nice heavy duty RLCA's on my 347 car, and those helped out with keeping the rear planted.

 

[The Green GT]

I dont know jack **** about suspension. What would be the best things to get that would keep the rear planted? And please dont say some **** that cost like $1000 lol.

 

[mustang6tee8]

Rear lower control arms go for around $200. Not only do they plant the rearend a lot better than stock, but they're cheaper than DR's... and last forever! Nearly every aftermarket company sells them.. BBK, Maximum Motorsports, Pro3i, etc. I found the Pro3i's to be the cheapest (~$189) and best bang for the buck, which is why I bought them.

 

[Italian-LX]

I recommend getting upper control arm at the same time you get the lowers. Otherwise, you will be jeopardizing your torque boxes; especially if you start using a sticky tire and drive it hard.

I use Factory-5 Racing control arms and swear by them as far as quality construction and good performance without excessive road noise and harsh ride. I also know a lot of other guys that run them and they all agree.

 

[ProKiller]

I recommend getting upper control arm at the same time you get the lowers. Otherwise, you will be jeopardizing your torque boxes; especially if you start using a sticky tire and drive it hard.

I use Factory-5 Racing control arms and swear by them as far as quality construction and good performance without excessive road noise and harsh ride. I also know a lot of other guys that run them and they all agree.

you necesarily need to do uppers. MM doesn't even make uppers, they recommend getting the HD FRPP ones and their lowers. i can't imagine that with his almost stock HP level he is going to need to reinforce his torque boxes.

 

[Italian-LX]

...they recommend getting the HD FRPP ones and their lowers...

The FRPP uppers are a waste of money IMO. They are basically OEM units with maybe a somewhat stiffer bushing.

...i can't imagine that with his almost stock HP level he is going to need to reinforce his torque boxes.

I never said he had to reinforce them. My suggestion is to get matching upper/lowers. I have seen a few cars rip up their torque boxes when using stock upper with aftermarket lowers.

The problem occurs because the stock uppers (which are designed to keep the axle housing centered) have excess flex and allow the axles to move side-to-side. That isn't a problem with the stock lowers because their bushings flex too. However, if you have aftermatrket lowers with stiffer bushings, then when the axle moves to the side, the LCA with rip the torque box up because it's bushings don't give like the uppers did.

I have always run matching UCA/LCA and my torque boxes are fine with no reinforcements. I currently run mid-11's on DOT slicks with a 125-shot spraying it hard out of the hole. (1.58 60'). My car dynoed 530rwtq. I know two guys personally that were running similar set-ups with stock uppers and now have ripped boxes.


I'm not telling anyonme what to do, I'm justr sharing my experience.

 

[ProKiller]

thats some good info actually