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Questions For 351w Swapped Into Foxbody

  • Thread starter Thread starter ConnorQ10
  • Start date Start date Oct 30, 2017
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ConnorQ10

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  • Oct 30, 2017
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Hey guys, I have a chance to get my hands on a 72' 351w block bored .30. The block is bare and I'm wondering on what is the best rotating assembly, pistons, rods, bearings, crank etc. for being able to make 450-500 rwhp to be able to fit the block? Thanks for any answers and opened to advice on this build. Also the car is going to be mostly street and show but the odd run down the strip.
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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  • Oct 30, 2017
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Welcome to Stangnet Connor.

I'll move your thread to our fox general talk subforum, you'll get a bunch of the guys to chime in there.

Show us a picture as your mustang sits, we love pictures here.

It's good to have you with us brother.
 

Steel1

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  • Oct 30, 2017
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408 will get you to your goals.
Scat makes a good/reasonable rotating assembly for a street car.
If you want to run a roller cam best bet is to go with link bar lifters and a custom grind.
Flavor of the month aluminum heads, AFR, Trick Flow etc. Need to decide if your going EFI or carb.
 
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ConnorQ10

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Steel1 said:
408 will get you to your goals.
Scat makes a good/reasonable rotating assembly for a street car.
If you want to run a roller cam best bet is to go with link bar lifters and a custom grind.
Flavor of the month aluminum heads, AFR, Trick Flow etc. Need to decide if your going EFI or carb.
Click to expand...

Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.
 
C

ConnorQ10

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ConnorQ10 said:
Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.
Click to expand...
Tappet*
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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*Hydraulic/solid flat tappet
 
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ConnorQ10

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ConnorQ10 said:
Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.
Click to expand...
Tappet*
madmike1157 said:
*Hydraulic/solid flat tappet
Click to expand...

That is what I ment to say haha
 

Steel1

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  • Oct 31, 2017
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ConnorQ10 said:
Sweet thanks, I’ll defiantly look into that! And to go the roller route what kind of work would be involved? I know the older blocks weren’t roller. Would you recommend going roller instead of rapper? And I was thinking of going the carb route.
Click to expand...

The easiest way to run a roller in a non roller block is to use a set of link bar lifters.
You could locate a spider tray and dog bones then have the block machined to accept bolts for spider tray
but why go through all that.
I run a set of TFS link bars in my 1969 block 393w.
I think the hyd. roller would allow you to get a more custom street friendly grind.
If your starting from scratch carb would be the cheaper route, but a well tuned EFI can give you better all
around performance and drivability.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#9
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Furthermore, running a flat tappet camshaft these days is a gamble with your engine. Since the EPA legislated the zinc additives out of motor oil, flat tappet camshafts have been failing in high numbers. Typically, when a cam fails, it's it a death nail for the rest of the engine.

I was so against using a FT cam in my old engine, I had a guy in Australia grind a custom roller version to fit.

You can buy certain oils that have ZDDP in them , or use an additive if you choose to run one though.

But....

Give Trump a minute.....if anybody can overturn legislation to eliminate oil additives that foul catalytic converters, and add carbon emissions to the air, it's this guy.
 
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ConnorQ10

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Steel1 said:
The easiest way to run a roller in a non roller block is to use a set of link bar lifters.
You could locate a spider tray and dog bones then have the block machined to accept bolts for spider tray
but why go through all that.
I run a set of TFS link bars in my 1969 block 393w.
I think the hyd. roller would allow you to get a more custom street friendly grind.
If your starting from scratch carb would be the cheaper route, but a well tuned EFI can give you better all
around performance and drivability.
Click to expand...

Oh okay so I could just run a set of link bar lifters and not have to do any alterations to the block? Just a new roller cam that’ll work with the lifters, as well valvetrain?
 
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ConnorQ10

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madmike1157 said:
Furthermore, running a flat tappet camshaft these days is a gamble with your engine. Since the EPA legislated the zinc additives out of motor oil, flat tappet camshafts have been failing in high numbers. Typically, when a cam fails, it's it a death nail for the rest of the engine.

I was so against using a FT cam in my old engine, I had a guy in Australia grind a custom roller version to fit.

You can buy certain oils that have ZDDP in them , or use an additive if you choose to run one though.

But....

Give Trump a minute.....if anybody can overturn legislation to eliminate oil additives that foul catalytic converters, and add carbon emissions to the air, it's this guy.
Click to expand...

Haha yeah you’re probably right lol and so you’re saying to stay away from the flat tappet cam and Just do the work to convert to Roller
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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Oct 31, 2017
#12
  • Oct 31, 2017
  • #12
ConnorQ10 said:
Haha yeah you’re probably right lol and so you’re saying to stay away from the flat tappet cam and Just do the work to convert to Roller
Click to expand...
Unless you like wiped out cam journals, and mushroomed lifter faces...
 

nelzfoxes

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#13
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It’s gonna cost you about a g for all the swap parts to do the swap. Flywheel, accessory bracket, headers, intake, oil pan. Unless you’re resourceful. I bought them all new. Just gotta get the motor built up.
 
Last edited: Nov 19, 2017

Steel1

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#14
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ConnorQ10 said:
Oh okay so I could just run a set of link bar lifters and not have to do any alterations to the block? Just a new roller cam that’ll work with the lifters, as well valvetrain?
Click to expand...
Yep
 
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ConnorQ10

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Steel1 said:
Yep
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for the info man, I appreciate it!
 
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ConnorQ10

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nelzfoxes said:
It’s gonna cost you about a g for all the swap parts to do the swap. Flywheel, accessory bracket, headers, intake, oil pan. Unless you’re resourceful. I bought them all new. Just gotta get the motor built up.
Click to expand...

Yeah I figured it’s gonna cost me a little bit of $$ but I plan on slowly doing the build on the motor and try to be resourceful as much as I can! But... it’s going to be sweet when it’s finsihed!
 

nelzfoxes

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  • Oct 31, 2017
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ConnorQ10 said:
Yeah I figured it’s gonna cost me a little bit of $$ but I plan on slowly doing the build on the motor and try to be resourceful as much as I can! But... it’s going to be sweet when it’s finsihed!
Click to expand...
The toughest part is sticking with the project. It sits and it sits and you always say “I am gonna get back in that Daddywagon.” For me, I got the bug to buy another mustang because I wanted to drive a windsor/fox. Once I had it and drove it, I wanted more than ever to get my project on the road. I ended up buying more parts and more tools every payday for months. In the end I got it running and couldn’t be happier. The project isn’t done yet, but a running and driving project is a thousand times better.
 
C

ConnorQ10

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Oct 30, 2017
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  • Oct 31, 2017
  • #18
nelzfoxes said:
The toughest part is sticking with the project. It sits and it sits and you always say “I am gonna get back in that Daddywagon.” For me, I got the bug to buy another mustang because I wanted to drive a windsor/fox. Once I had it and drove it, I wanted more than ever to get my project on the road. I ended up buying more parts and more tools every payday for months. In the end I got it running and couldn’t be happier. The project isn’t done yet, but a running and driving project is a thousand times better.
Click to expand...

Yeah I’m defiantly going to have to stay committed to it! I think once I start to see the engine come together I’ll be super excited to drop it in! But I got that same bug haha I own a fairly new stang but I’ve always loved the fox’s and with a Windsor it’s just to awesome to not be my next!
 

Steel1

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If your patient you can find some good deals searching the classifieds on this and other forums, I found a lot of good deals on Corral.net
 
C

ConnorQ10

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Steel1 said:
If your patient you can find some good deals searching the classifieds on this and other forums, I found a lot of good deals on Corral.net
Click to expand...

Sweet I’ll take a look at corral and keep my eyes open on here thanks!
 
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