20s will slow you down a little bit because its more weight and its more rotational mass.
75 i think youll be around 2800 rpms. i will check this morning and report back when i get back from work.
80 i think your damn close to 3000 rpms.
get a tuner. they help out alot.
or get lcas and a uca. theres so many things that coudl boost your performance.
what was your 60 ft time and what was your mph at the end of the 1/4?
75 i think youll be around 2800 rpms. i will check this morning and report back when i get back from work.
80 i think your damn close to 3000 rpms.
get a tuner. they help out alot.
or get lcas and a uca. theres so many things that coudl boost your performance.
what was your 60 ft time and what was your mph at the end of the 1/4?
Is your car an automatic? If so, a big stall converter and 4.10 gears will help considerably. Tuner is a must-have item, as well. Big power can be had from cams & heads, but you'd spend nearly as much going that route as buying a basic supercharger which would get you even more power. As your track isn't perfectly flat, perhap roll-control would be a good mod for your car.
I turn about 2250 at 70 with my 4.10 gears and 5spd. LCA's will not effect the ride but they will improve the handling and help to eliminate any wheel hop. I have the race LCA's with solid rod ends, they do make a little noise during on/off throttle transition. They are worth the money in my opinion. Roll-control and line lock is the same thing. I agree with Brian that you will need it with a up hill starting line.
They do not effect ride quality, IMO. They do improve performance ten fold though. I'd also recommend getting the relocation brackets if you're lowered. The first time ever I went out to the track I was able to pull a 1.7 with BMR Billet LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, and 20" wheels and Nitto NT555Rs. I've got the Adj. UCA sitting in my shop waiting to be installed. I'm sure it'll only help my 60 ft times, too.
i didn't get a chance to check today to see what the RPMs were. too much traffic.
theres nothing wrong with the motive gears. if your paying to get them installed, any problems you may have are going to be from the installers error.
a gear swap is cake if you have the tools and decent mechanical skill. if you can't though i definitely recommend a professional.
250 isn't bad as long as they guarantee it wont whine.
marc s, what tires are you running to be able to rev that low? thats what i'm revved to at 60. i'm revved pretty damn close if not at 3 grand at 80 can't think of what i am doing at 70. and i'm running a 28 inch tall rear tire.
theres nothing wrong with the motive gears. if your paying to get them installed, any problems you may have are going to be from the installers error.
a gear swap is cake if you have the tools and decent mechanical skill. if you can't though i definitely recommend a professional.
250 isn't bad as long as they guarantee it wont whine.
marc s, what tires are you running to be able to rev that low? thats what i'm revved to at 60. i'm revved pretty damn close if not at 3 grand at 80 can't think of what i am doing at 70. and i'm running a 28 inch tall rear tire.
The control arms will as it will better plant the power you have now. 4.10s and no suspension upgrades will make traction worse!
A tuner, LCAs, line lock and seat time will do wonders for you
You do not have to install the lowers and upper at the same time. I installed tubular ones with rod ends on my car. These are overkill unless you plan on adding a lot of power for drag racing or you road race. They do make clicking sounds during on/off throttle and when shifting during normal driving. But, they did make a noticable improvement on the road race track.
Autumn, I have 275/40/18 Toyo T1R's. My speedo reads 4% fast, I did not consider this when I post my MPH/RPM earlier. Today on the way to work my RPM's read 2550 @ 75 MPH, my hand held GPS said I was doing 72.3 MPH. I need to re-calibrate for my new tire size to correct for the tire diameter change.
Autumn, I have 275/40/18 Toyo T1R's. My speedo reads 4% fast, I did not consider this when I post my MPH/RPM earlier. Today on the way to work my RPM's read 2550 @ 75 MPH, my hand held GPS said I was doing 72.3 MPH. I need to re-calibrate for my new tire size to correct for the tire diameter change.
Is this your first time at the track? If so maybe just work on driving techniques and traction issues. Your car definately is faster than a 14.6 no matter what part of the country you're running in. I'd work on getting the best times possible with the mods your car currently has rather than spend money on more parts and risk just spinning your tires and ending up with the same times.
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