Radiator Questions Again....

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
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Glenview,Il
Our stock radiators are aluminum right...If so the only things that I can think of that is bad is the plastic tanks. Is it really worth getting a racing radiator or is the stock one fine. I mean I run at the A in normal on our stock temp gauges on a hot summer day without A/C. So I know its hot and I need better cooling but will a racing radiator make that much of a difference if the stock one is aluminum? Also, I dunno if my cooling problem is just because I have an old radiator....It's got a huge dent in it (from when I bottomed out) and it also probably has scaling and stuff since its so old. So I'm thinking it could be that too...I dont want to spend the money on a direct fit but also dont want the hassle and ghetto installation of the summit one so if you guyz think a new stock one ($125) should do the trick let me know, or if I should bite the bullet and go with an aftermarket one. Or any other suggestions to the problem would help also.
 
i'm looking to replace my stock radiator as well.

i've been watching fourvalve.com. that's where i've found the cheapest fluidyne radiators so far. i was also considering either a new stock radiator or a summit racing one.

i'm still saving up for the fluidyne though. i think that'll be the best choice over all.
 
Your running the stock radiator with a 331? Not a good investment with a new motor. Look online for a Fluidyne. Absolute radiator use to have them for $321 shipped but the demand is so high I'm sure it's gone up by now.
 
VibrantRedGT said:
Your running the stock radiator with a 331? Not a good investment with a new motor. Look online for a Fluidyne. Absolute radiator use to have them for $321 shipped but the demand is so high I'm sure it's gone up by now.

View attachment 526670

"A" in "Normal" is like 230*!!!

Youre Asking for it with AFR's and 230*
burning.jpg


You should be able to run 200 or lower with a good radiator and proper fan settings.
RC
 
Go with the fluidyne rad and put in a 180* t-stat. Also if you get a fluidyne rad make sure you use the reg green prestone antifreeze in the yellow bottle. I used some other brand of green stuff and it started to corrode my rad and block from the mismatched metals. I can't remember what the name for it is right now but it happens when you put an aluminum rad with an iron block.
 
bjl95mustang said:
Go with the fluidyne rad and put in a 180* t-stat. Also if you get a fluidyne rad make sure you use the reg green prestone antifreeze in the yellow bottle. I used some other brand of green stuff and it started to corrode my rad and block from the mismatched metals. I can't remember what the name for it is right now but it happens when you put an aluminum rad with an iron block.

how about "wetter water"?
 
I was having problems with electrolysis when I put mine fluidyne in my car. I think wetter watter and hy-per lube super coolant all protect from electrolysis and help the cooling system. Without using watter wetter the best brand of af I think is the prestone in the yellow bottle. I didn't notice any problems with electrolysis when just using the fluid. I added watter wetter at a later time. To tell if you are having electrolysis happening in your rad all you have to do is open the rad cap with the engine cold and look to see if there is a white foam sitting there in the top of the cap area. To stop electrolysis you can go to some auto shops and get tablets that stop it also.
 
94GTLaserRC said:
Isnt the stock radiator aluminum??

I use 50/50 Distilled water, Regular Yellow Prestone, and a bottle of WW
waterwetter_1P.jpg
prestone.jpg


RC
Maybe it was the brand of af that I used that caused the electrolysis, I don't know. All I know is that I don't have anymore problems with it.