Radiator with electric fan best?

  • Sponsors (?)


I had a factory big block radiator in my '70 with a 289 and it ran cool as a cucumber. Then I got a leak in the radiator and ordered a 24" alum unit w/ twin 12" elec fans from the same company, I believe. The car runs nice and cool except in hot weather traffic. I think the fans don't pull as much air as my old flex fan. Something to keep in mind.

Wiring it was pretty simple with a relay and temp switch.
 
If you are going to get an aluminum radiator, get a 2 row with 1" cores, those three rows have 3/8 cores thats only 1.125" of capacity and fin contact...the 2, 1" cores is 2" of capacity and fin contact. There is a rediculously long detailed, chemistry filled thread on here right now if u care to read it, lol.
 
If you are going to get an aluminum radiator, get a 2 row with 1" cores, those three rows have 3/8 cores thats only 1.125" of capacity and fin contact...the 2, 1" cores is 2" of capacity and fin contact. There is a rediculously long detailed, chemistry filled thread on here right now if u care to read it, lol.

Yeah it seems this 3 core thing is a gimmick. Much confusion on rows and such.

Now I am thinking of going electric fan have to get more info on that. I noted lots of guys use shrouds with electric fans too.
sparx
 
sparx, use a taurus or lincoln electric fan as they pull about 4000cfm of air through the radiator. most after market fans only pull 2500-3000cfm. also a good electric fan will come with a shroud built in as part of the fan assembly.
 
sparx, use a taurus or lincoln electric fan as they pull about 4000cfm of air through the radiator. most after market fans only pull 2500-3000cfm. also a good electric fan will come with a shroud built in as part of the fan assembly.


X2, I think most ppls issues end up not being the radiator but the fan they choose to skimp on. Mines just a durale 16" but it moves lots of air.
 
facts not theory

i have just gone through this whole thing look up a thread on here for 68 mustang over heating after upgrades.

here are the facts:
after much research i bought a 4 core aluminum 25" radiator. it works..........period. 4 core is not a gimmick. 2-1" cores are not better than 4 -3/8" cores. with a 4 core the water is split 4 ways and has more overall cooling surface due to big increase in number of fins. we can debate this issue until the end of time but the results speak for themselves. at 105 actual degs outside moving 25 mph my temp stayed at 185 degs. at 65 mph went to 180 degs. and that was all with a/c on high.

sitting still in traffic temp goes up to 200 because i don't have enough air flow. i have my shroud off and a huge gap at top of rad. i put 2 -9" elec fans in front pushing and left mech fan on. when i fix that problem and put shroud on you can bet will do great in traffic. almost immediately after it starts moving again it drops like a rock.

so this is a case of not speculating but a word from someone who actually has it in preactice. i hope this helps.

i suggest while you are at it put on a good trans cooler if you have automatic. i saw 2 drawbacks on the rad i bought. it is 21-1/2" tall barely fits under my hood. and the trans cooler fittings are too small but i was adding trans cooler anyway. the guy i bought from was great to deal with.

here is a link to the one i bought but not the fans.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Ro...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23109f0f56
 
i have just gone through this whole thing look up a thread on here for 68 mustang over heating after upgrades.

here are the facts:
after much research i bought a 4 core aluminum 25" radiator. it works..........period. 4 core is not a gimmick. 2-1" cores are not better than 4 -3/8" cores. with a 4 core the water is split 4 ways and has more overall cooling surface due to big increase in number of fins. we can debate this issue until the end of time but the results speak for themselves. at 105 actual degs outside moving 25 mph my temp stayed at 185 degs. at 65 mph went to 180 degs. and that was all with a/c on high.

sitting still in traffic temp goes up to 200 because i don't have enough air flow. i have my shroud off and a huge gap at top of rad. i put 2 -9" elec fans in front pushing and left mech fan on. when i fix that problem and put shroud on you can bet will do great in traffic. almost immediately after it starts moving again it drops like a rock.

so this is a case of not speculating but a word from someone who actually has it in preactice. i hope this helps.

fans.
You really cant say those are facts that a 4 row is better then a 2 row unless you have used a 2 row to compare.You have chased your tail in circles for a while now and now you are on the right track.But it is a known fact, in a 4 row core, the front rows transfer heat to the rear rows.I know its better then what you had, but not the best choice.I have used 4 rows,I have used 2 rows.I DID try both without any other changes and know what the difference was.


Trust me , ive been through it ALL.My car now runs on a HOT day idleing at about 170* for about 45 minutes in a stop and go cruise route and even on the freeway with 3.80 gears,excessive underhood heat from the turbo, it still barely reaches 174* in 95* heat.
 
I have the 2 core, 1" rows, "guaranteed to cool 300 hp" and doesn't keep me cool if the outside temps are over 95. Most of the time in AZ. I have the 3" shroud and 7 blade 18" fan. gets progessivly hotter at idle, and cools very slowly going down the road.

I am looking at the 4 row, 20 inch core from Champion. It is supposed to cool 600 horse.
 
I have the 2 core, 1" rows, "guaranteed to cool 300 hp" and doesn't keep me cool if the outside temps are over 95. Most of the time in AZ. I have the 3" shroud and 7 blade 18" fan. gets progessivly hotter at idle, and cools very slowly going down the road.

I am looking at the 4 row, 20 inch core from Champion. It is supposed to cool 600 horse.
I would look at your fan first.If its at idle, theres no airflow and the fan might not be pulling enough air through the core.