radiator ?

[jimdrechsler]

i was thinking of having my mechanic throw on a new radiator while he has it over the winter. the radiator i have now is stock. would i see a big difference with a new radiator as far as cooling? i notice my temp creeps up when i sit and goes back down when i drive, as most do. anyway, i have an electric fan (the proform one i think, or the other cheaper one), an 180 t-stat and properly working water pump etc... i have the holley systemax kit on there with all boltons (maybe it is in my sig). anyway, im looking for an aftermarket "inexpensive" radiator. can you send me links and prices as to what i should get? and, should that help me keep cool? power gains here too? i also notice that if i drive over an hour, which is rare on the highway, it will creep slowly up, very slowly, but still creep above 180.

thanks for any/all replies!

 

[bloopbloob]

sorry to disappoint, but a new radiator isn't going to give you any power gains. it's also something you could probably install very easily rather than pay a mechanic to do it. i've found lots of sites offering alum. rads for under $200 bucks. just do a quick search.

 

[twistedwankel]

can you send me links and prices as to what i should get? and, should that help me keep cool? power gains here too? i also notice that if i drive over an hour, which is rare on the highway, it will creep slowly up, very slowly, but still creep above 180.
thanks for any/all replies!

I put an Advance Auto $95 "normal" aluminum with plastic end pieces just like the "modern" ones and a new cap in my 84 , 5.0 with AOD. All my cooling issues immediately went away. The car NEVER gets above 1/2 with AC on in FL at 90F and while on the road many times doesn't get above 1/3. Yes it runs better being consistently cool. I never changed the thermostat from original 195F either.
The original brass/copper radiator I put out at the curb and am sure it got a local redneck a 12pack at the scrap yard - with my blessing as I won't take the steel off.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Your mechanic keeps your car over the winter??



I just have a pep boys 3-core in mine. Works wondefully. My temps never go about 188* as verified by my autometer mech temp gauge

 

[jimdrechsler]

ill have my mechanic do it seeing as how he is dirt cheap. he has it there becasue he never finished my suspension/welding, clutch, etc... lasyt summer!!! i figure while he has it, have him do it. probably cost me 40 bux. anyway, am i looking for a 2 row or three row radiator. i live in ny, so it gets hot every once in a while in the summer, but not drastic. how much was the 3 core from pepboys? so i want an alluminum one for sure? i think there was one in jegs (jegs brand) for 200 and something bucks. worth it?

thanks again for replies... i always come here before i buy stuff for this baby!

 

[Sicarius428]

Typically if you see the temp creep up at a stop, your fan isn't pulling enough air through the radiator to keep it cool. The opposite would be if you are driving and the temp goes up, your radiator cannot reject enough heat to keep the temp down. If you are in the market for a new radiator and you are still running the original, get one but I woudn't expect it to solve the heating at a stop any. If anything with a larger radiator it will just take longer for your motor to overheat at a stop. I run the generic 31x19 griffin and I am very pleased with it's operation thus far.
Kevin

 

[jimdrechsler]

where can i find the griffin? i think i will get a cheap one and throw it on there, can't hurt.

thanks!

jim

 

[93 LX]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PCE&MfrPartNumber=433556&PartType=31&PTSet=A

 

[7-UP BILL]

I have the Mustang specific Griffin 2 core w/ 1" tubes. A 2 core w/ 1" tubes will cool better than a 4 core w/ 1/2" tubes. It has more swept area for the fins to cool the tubes. www.griffinrad.com

 

[93 LX]

for people woth a budget the one from parts america for 119 a great deal. Too bad no stores are in so CA!

 

[Sicarius428]

I picked mine up from summit for just under 200 bucks if I remember correctly. Also be sure to get a griffin radiator cap. A stant will not work. The plunger is longer on the griffin one probably for the heavier spring.
Kevin

 

[v8only]

i'd stay away from the alum units, and specifically fluidyne.

the alum expand and contract too much when they heat and cool. Some, especially fluidynes, develop leaks fairly soon.

when an alum radiator leaks, you basically throw it away.

as mentioned, a pep boys or autozone 3 row radiator will get the job done for cheap.

 

[93 LX]

i'd stay away from the alum units, and specifically fluidyne.

the alum expand and contract too much when they heat and cool. Some, especially fluidynes, develop leaks fairly soon.

when an alum radiator leaks, you basically throw it away.

as mentioned, a pep boys or autozone 3 row radiator will get the job done for cheap.

You can fix the radiators ya know. Besides all the new cars have them so I figure they work as well as the brass ones.

 

[v8only]

most new cars come with aluminum bodies and plastic side tanks. No welding...I bet it's better for the expansion and cooling process.