I’m having issues with overheating after installing a new pump and stat. I’ve burped the car twice but the temperature still creeps up to 230 and above. While checking the car I noticed that the car was above operating temp but the upper (not lower) hose was still cold. I’m suspecting a faulty thermostat. Would it be wise to go after that first? Eventually the hose got hot but way after the engine reached beyond operating temp.
Resolved Upper radiator hose cold??
- Thread starter dqureshi06
- Start date
Simple things first... Take out the thermostat out if you want and see if that fixes it...
Make sure your pump is rotating in the correct direction..
I was taught years ago to " go back to what you last worked on" and double check all of that....
Make sure your pump is rotating in the correct direction..
I was taught years ago to " go back to what you last worked on" and double check all of that....
Did you install the t-stat in the correct direction? Pull the t-stat like Limp said and you can also put it in a pan of water with a thermometer and see when and if it opens by heating the water on a stove.
This happened to me about a month ago check and make sure your radiator cap is good! It stumped me till I realized it was just the cap and grabbed the one off my flare side and it was getting to temp just fine!
TwoRockTwo
Member
The upper hose is the return, hot coolant leaves the engine through the upper hose back into the radiator.
It should be hot once the thermostat starts opening up.
So I would suspect a faulty thermostat or installed backwards.
It should be hot once the thermostat starts opening up.
So I would suspect a faulty thermostat or installed backwards.
T stat might be a bit slow. I had this issue with a brand new Motorcraft tstat. Would take forever to open and often the car would shoot past operating temp before it finally opened and then cool down.
Was annoying so I eventually swapped it out for an aftermarket 180 stat. The aftermarket unit actually opens at 185-190 degrees which is perfectly fine by me.
I make it a habit to now check my stats in a pot of boiling water with a temp probe. The Motorcraft 192 wasn’t opening until 205 degrees (which is still fine) and then would stay opened at 190. I just didn’t like that behavior personally.
Was annoying so I eventually swapped it out for an aftermarket 180 stat. The aftermarket unit actually opens at 185-190 degrees which is perfectly fine by me.
I make it a habit to now check my stats in a pot of boiling water with a temp probe. The Motorcraft 192 wasn’t opening until 205 degrees (which is still fine) and then would stay opened at 190. I just didn’t like that behavior personally.
Yup I tested mine and it seems to be opening too late for my liking. I tested a 180 tstat and it seems to be opening fast so I’m gonna install that today.
Stant t-stats seem to work really well and are accurate. At least that has been my experience.
I typically drill a 1/8" hole in the flange of the t-stat and put that at the 12 o'clock position when it is installed. This will burp just about all the air out of the system. Some t-stats have a built in bleeder but I have not installed one to say whether or not they work as advertised or not. This is not my picture but you get the idea:
I installed one also with the hole already there. Do I rule out trapped air completely then?I typically drill a 1/8" hole in the flange of the t-stat and put that at the 12 o'clock position when it is installed. This will burp just about all the air out of the system. Some t-stats have a built in bleeder but I have not installed one to say whether or not they work as advertised or not. This is not my picture but you get the idea:
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I still burp my system,I use a Lisle funnel I got on Amazon,works like a charm
The Lisle funnel works very well. I typically massage the upper and lower hoses while the car warms up to try and push air out. Usually once you get it somewhat full off coolant a couple hot/cold cycles expells all the air into the radiator and out into the overflow.
Update: either the issue was a lack of coolant or trapped air in the system. After running the car and continuously filling coolant, the temperature gauge dropped to 180 and stayed there. I took it for a drive and no issues anymore. I think it may have been more lack of coolant since I filled two bottles of it, although the car puked some out eventually. Feel dumb for not considering that sooner, but I’m happy now that I can drive it. Thanks everyone.
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