Rattle

UTGAMER

New Member
Feb 26, 2010
215
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Dalton, GA
If it aint one thing its another. Ive got a rattling sound when I push gas all the way down accelerating, only does it if I floor it. The car seems to have lost its quickness, but kept its power. If yall remember Awhile back I lost power, but still felt quick, wtf? any ideas about the rattle? Sounds like it may be underhood driver side. Sounds like tin cans kind of, or electric machine gun lol not real loud, but very noticable

Thanks again
 
detonation is mainly caused by the timing being too advanced & bad/cheap gas but can also be caused by other things.
is the ecm throwing any codes? check engine light on?
on another note, you said it might be coming from around the shifter, do you still have the factory catted h-pipe? could be a heat shield rattling, or one of the cats coming apart. might want to jack it up a bang around under there & see if you hear anything.
 
Its most likely ping... car is out of timing or you need to clean your maf... try running a higher grade fuel.


And how are you running out of road your going to run the car into the ground man... seems like your foot is on the floor no matter where your going...
 
yeah, that sounds like pinging.

how many miles on the motor? our cars have agressive timing and, as the engine ages, carbon buildup on the pistons causes the compression to increase, which can lead to pinging.

seafoam is reported to help clear the carbon buildup. also clean the maf sensor to make sure the air flow reading is as close to correct as possible.

do you have any mods such as a cold air intake or anything?
 
Has the car been sitting? If yes, old gas. Get new gas. If no, try I higher octane, 93 preferably. I couldn't run anything less then 93 or it would ping. Did the seafoam thing and it helped a lot, but eventually came back. If going to 93 works but you don't want to use that, then back down on your timing a little.
Is your exhaust stock? If you have a stock exhaust, check the rubber hangers. They break all the time it seems. You just might have the pipes hitting something. If it's larger than stock like 2.5 in, then check it's clearance at the upper control arm. Like one of the other posters said, just get under there and move the pipes side to side to see if they bang. Also, check hangers.
 
174K miles
I have CAI, Bassani X pipe, MSD distributor, aluminum drive shaft is only mods I can think of.

I actually think the rattle is the shifter/trans, well there is a rattle there now, but the first one I was describing Im not sure if was the rattle from shifter or not cause I hear shifter now. Its vibrating real bad in fork area, which is making the chirping sound on clutch I guess. New clutch assembly installed. I know trans fluid is low I just added what I could of 2 quarts with a squirting mustard bottle lol and lil hose. What could be causing the vibration? Clutch cable that loose? Or fluid that low, or something else, or all of the above

BTW I have checked exhaust around headers and every where was just under there last night made sure everything was all nice and snug, so none of thats the noise

Still cant get clutch to feel right, its really soft, chirps, has almost a grind feel to it, hard to explain, but yet smooth, and releases at right spot, but too fast if makes since? Like Im letting go too fast but Im not
 
Good news.......For me

If your manual transmission equipped car has an annoying noise whenver the clutch pedal is all the way out, and the noise goes away AS SOON AS you put the slightest pressure on the pedal, it is easily repaired. You don't need a new throwout bearing. You don't need a new clutch.



To fix the squeeling; chirping; or whirring sound that goes away as soon as you apply even the slightest pressure on the pedal. You need to replace the lubrication that has dried up at the point of the shift fork and pivot ball stud. The loss of lube has allowed it to dry up and the noise you hear is actually a frequency vibration and as soon as you put pressure on the pedal it dampens the frequency, and the noise disappears. To replace the lube do the following:

1. Get a can of disc brake wheel bearing grease and a small stiff brush, like an 'acid brush'
2. Pull the shift fork boot away from the bell housing
3. Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it. It will probably look dry and rusty in the area of the contact of the ball stud
4. Now, while holding the fork forward, take the brush that has been loaded with a dab of grease, and smooth the grease around the area of the ball stud and shift fork dimple. Do this 2 or 3 times.
5. Replace your shift fork boot, if so equipped.

You will have eliminated the noise. As soon as you start up the engine, the noise will be gone.


Ill get this done then see if it makes shifter stop shaking so hard and maybe be able to hear that pinging again if it was ever even that. Hopefully not

Just hope this trans or clutch aint messed up
 
You really need to make a list and go down and fix things one thing at a time...
Pinging noise/clutch issue/electrical whine are probably all 3 separate issues.

1. Did you lube up the shaft :rlaugh: when you put the tob in...
2. Is your clutch properly adjusted...
3. Clean your maf!
4. CHECK FOR RUBBER BEHIND YOUR HARMONIC BALANCER!
- This would cause both your shaking and pinging if the balancer spun.
5. Make sure your set on 10* timing.
6. Fill up with 93 octane...
- Pinging noise should be gone unless its an actual big problem.
7. Check for whine noise at fuel pump when key on. loud whining usually means your fuel pump is on the way out. a normal quiet whine / hum is ok.

good luck, you can try what you have been reading but most people here are giving you solid info
 
Just went and changed transmission fluid cause It took me 2 hours last night tryin to put in 2 quarts lol. Dude said chirping was flywheel, but he didnt even look at car. When I put new clutch in I didnt replace or have flywheel resurfaced also didnt replace pilot bearing, cause I couldnt get it out. Went to auto zone to get a pilot bearing puller and it was $100 to rent, and I didnt have that much, so decided pilot bearing was ok and went on with the old one. The chirp was there right before TOB went out the begin with. Does this sound about right to yall? I know it could be input shaft and all that, but just asking cause I was gonna borrow the cash to get this done if it was probably the cause of this chirping. It is vibrating kind of hard. A lot more than it should which in return is causing the chirp IMO
 
Just went and changed transmission fluid cause It took me 2 hours last night tryin to put in 2 quarts lol. Dude said chirping was flywheel, but he didnt even look at car. When I put new clutch in I didnt replace or have flywheel resurfaced also didnt replace pilot bearing, cause I couldnt get it out. Went to auto zone to get a pilot bearing puller and it was $100 to rent, and I didnt have that much, so decided pilot bearing was ok and went on with the old one. The chirp was there right before TOB went out the begin with. Does this sound about right to yall? I know it could be input shaft and all that, but just asking cause I was gonna borrow the cash to get this done if it was probably the cause of this chirping. It is vibrating kind of hard. A lot more than it should which in return is causing the chirp IMO

OK
1. The shifter can be removed by the 4 bolts around it... trans can be filled from there... a.take bottle b.Dump bottle in

2. Please check your harmonic balancer...

3. Never put in a new clutch without resurfacing the flywheel. You need a fresh surface for brake in.

4. The $100 is a deposit and you get the money back.

5. Pilot bearing can be removed hydraulicly with a hammer, socket, extension, Soap or wet paper.
 
Its raining out side here . What do I look for in harmonic balance? Im new to all this mechanical stuff learning as I go. Have learned a good bit in past week just from clutch job, so yall please bare with all my stupidity :)
 
Its raining out side here . What do I look for in harmonic balance? Im new to all this mechanical stuff learning as I go. Have learned a good bit in past week just from clutch job, so yall please bare with all my stupidity :)

Locate your crank... it will be the big hunk of metal behind your crank pulley... There is a rubber isolator that separates the 2 pieces of metal. IF YOU FEEL BEHIND IT AND THERE IS RUBBER: harmonic balancer is shot and needs to be replaced. Leaving it go can cause crank damage.

If it looks like this:
Picture1935.webp
Picture1934.webp

Its bad you should feel no rubber lip sticking out...


This would cause your vibration problems as well as your pinging if it has spun a bit out of time.