Re installing factory air

revhead347 · Nov 18, 2020

General karthief said:
If the system has been left open for an unknown amount of time you need to replace the evaporator and condenser and you likely need all the hoses and mounting brackets.

Eh, maybe true. Condensor yes, Evaporator is an 8 hour job. You can usually flush them out. I like the flush kit they sell at Advance with the flexible tube.

Kurt

stanggt95 · Nov 18, 2020

revhead347 said:
That's actually a really helpful video. Those multicolor vacuum lines you were holding up are actually the vacuum lines that control the smog devices. Those are irrelevant, you can yank them out. The two electrical plugs you touched were the cannister purge solenoid plug, and the ECU test plug. Both irrelevant, you can yank them out. Right where the evaporator core lines come through the firewall, there should be a hard plastic vacuum line that goes to the HVAC controls. You will probably need to fish another vacuum line through the firewall.

Kurt

So what were the multi colored lines coming from the back of the controls inside the car? I was under the assumption those control where the air blows.

revhead347 · Nov 18, 2020

stanggt95 said:
So what were the multi colored lines coming from the back of the controls inside the car? I was under the assumption those control where the air blows.

Correct, there are multi-color vacuum lines under the dash that control where the air comes out. It's a different set of vacuum lines than the ones you held up in the video. I'm going to over explain this for clarity, not to make you feel stupid, or be condescending. Frequently we have people on this forum afraid to ask questions because they are afraid they will expose a lack of knowledge. The vent control switch (the switch that controls where the air goes; windshield, your face, your balls, etc) on your AC control panel is a vacuum switch. On your HVAC box under the dash there are a handful of vacuum solenoids, and the switch directs engine vacuum to these solenoids to open and shut doors inside the HVAC box that determine whether or not you get air on your nuts or not. There could be leaks in that vacuum system anywhere, but the most obvious reason that it's not working is because it has been carb swapped. It's almost a certainty that when the previous owner carb swapped the engine, he neglected to hook up that black vacuum line to the engine. Getting the air to go to different vents is likely an easy fix. You need to run a vacuum line from one of the nipples on the intake to the black line on the back of the vent control switch. Vacuum line is pretty cheap, and you should be able to splice it together with basic vacutite connectors from any parts store.

Getting the AC working might be more complicated. You are going to need to flush the condensor and evaporator. You will need a source of compressed air to do that. Is the factory accessory bracket still on the driver's side of the car? It's a single piece bracket that mounts to the driver's side cylinder head that the AC compressor and power steering pump attach to. You are going to need a new Compressor and lines. The drier cannister also needs to be replaced. If it's still on the firewall, it's been left open for too long, and sucked up too much moisture. Rule of thumb whenever you disconnect an AC line is that you change the drier cannister and orifice tube. There are also electrical control issues that need to be addressed. I know the AC system interfaces with the ECU, and the fan solenoids. You might have to do some custom electric work to get it to work with a carbed engine. It's been done before, but it might take some research. The AC system will need to be charged when it's done. If you haven't done it before, it's better to let a professional do it. The cost of a one time service is about equal to the tools you need to buy to do it.

Kurt

stanggt95 · Nov 18, 2020

revhead347 said:
Correct, there are multi-color vacuum lines under the dash that control where the air comes out. It's a different set of vacuum lines than the ones you held up in the video. I'm going to over explain this for clarity, not to make you feel stupid, or be condescending. Frequently we have people on this forum afraid to ask questions because they are afraid they will expose a lack of knowledge. The vent control switch (the switch that controls where the air goes; windshield, your face, your balls, etc) on your AC control panel is a vacuum switch. On your HVAC box under the dash there are a handful of vacuum solenoids, and the switch directs engine vacuum to these solenoids to open and shut doors inside the HVAC box that determine whether or not you get air on your nuts or not. There could be leaks in that vacuum system anywhere, but the most obvious reason that it's not working is because it has been carb swapped. It's almost a certainty that when the previous owner carb swapped the engine, he neglected to hook up that black vacuum line to the engine. Getting the air to go to different vents is likely an easy fix. You need to run a vacuum line from one of the nipples on the intake to the black line on the back of the vent control switch. Vacuum line is pretty cheap, and you should be able to splice it together with basic vacutite connectors from any parts store.

Getting the AC working might be more complicated. You are going to need to flush the condensor and evaporator. You will need a source of compressed air to do that. Is the factory accessory bracket still on the driver's side of the car? It's a single piece bracket that mounts to the driver's side cylinder head that the AC compressor and power steering pump attach to. You are going to need a new Compressor and lines. The drier cannister also needs to be replaced. If it's still on the firewall, it's been left open for too long, and sucked up too much moisture. Rule of thumb whenever you disconnect an AC line is that you change the drier cannister and orifice tube. There are also electrical control issues that need to be addressed. I know the AC system interfaces with the ECU, and the fan solenoids. You might have to do some custom electric work to get it to work with a carbed engine. It's been done before, but it might take some research. The AC system will need to be charged when it's done. If you haven't done it before, it's better to let a professional do it. The cost of a one time service is about equal to the tools you need to buy to do it.

Kurt

LOL as my grandfather use to say, I don't know from shinola when it comes to these things. As we use to say in the Marines, I need it broke down barney style. I ain't afraid to say I don't know. Thats why I'm here asking. I already got about 1,100 into just paying someone to rebuild the front end, redo the plugs/wires, clean up some of the wiring, etc. That's not including what I paid for parts. I wanna be able to at some point be able to do some of this stuff myself. I'm just not naturally mechanically enclined. I appreciate you taking the time to explain this.

General karthief · Nov 19, 2020

Factory Repair Manuals

Factory service manuals – Up to 60% Off Ford, GM, Chrysler, Dodge, Toyota, Honda, Nissan automobiles. Original shop auto repair books car and truck.

www.factoryrepairmanuals.com

Get these manual, cheaper than paying labor

kiddiccarus · Nov 19, 2020

Four Seasons kit: FOR (1214N) New Compressor With Kit

INCL COMPONENTS;
58140 (NEW COMPRESSOR)
33057 (ACCUM)
55720 (LIQ w/OFIFICE)
69991 (FLUSH)
59007 (OIL); FS10 COMPRESSOR; LIQUID LINE w/ORIFICE TUBE; CAN EQPD; MEXICO; US EQPD

When you need a part number search. DM me. I have access to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Bumper to Bumper and can usually narrow things down for you.

stanggt95 · Nov 19, 2020

General karthief said:
Factory Repair Manuals

Factory service manuals – Up to 60% Off Ford, GM, Chrysler, Dodge, Toyota, Honda, Nissan automobiles. Original shop auto repair books car and truck.

www.factoryrepairmanuals.com

Get these manual, cheaper than paying labor

If everything was factory it'd be that simple

stanggt95 · Nov 19, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Four Seasons kit: FOR (1214N) New Compressor With Kit

INCL COMPONENTS;
58140 (NEW COMPRESSOR)
33057 (ACCUM)
55720 (LIQ w/OFIFICE)
69991 (FLUSH)
59007 (OIL); FS10 COMPRESSOR; LIQUID LINE w/ORIFICE TUBE; CAN EQPD; MEXICO; US EQPD

When you need a part number search. DM me. I have access to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Bumper to Bumper and can usually narrow things down for you.

Awesome! Thanks

stanggt95 · Nov 19, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Four Seasons kit: FOR (1214N) New Compressor With Kit

INCL COMPONENTS;
58140 (NEW COMPRESSOR)
33057 (ACCUM)
55720 (LIQ w/OFIFICE)
69991 (FLUSH)
59007 (OIL); FS10 COMPRESSOR; LIQUID LINE w/ORIFICE TUBE; CAN EQPD; MEXICO; US EQPD

When you need a part number search. DM me. I have access to AutoZone, Advance Auto, Bumper to Bumper and can usually narrow things down for you.

I've located all but the last one. 59007. Not seeing a condenser or evaporater. How would my setup for ac be different considering my carb set up?

kiddiccarus · Nov 19, 2020

Both from Bumper to Bumper

4 seasons condenser 40471
4 seasons evaporator 54557

on the difference between EFI and Carb. I honestly do not know, I believe that these all came EFI in 1995 from the factory.

revhead347 · Nov 19, 2020

Every V8 Mustang 1986 and newer is EFI only. For what it's worth, O'Reilly store brand A/C compressors are made by Four Seasons.

Kurt

stanggt95 · Nov 19, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Both from Bumper to Bumper

4 seasons condenser 40471
4 seasons evaporator 54557

on the difference between EFI and Carb. I honestly do not know, I believe that these all came EFI in 1995 from the factory.

Yes I know they came efi. But being my car is carbureted. IE, the ECU along with most of the other electronics have been removed wouldn't that completely change how the AC is setup?

kiddiccarus · Nov 19, 2020

I guess the real question is to ask if anyone who has changed their EFI to Carb still run factory air in any of the SN95 models. They would be the ones who would know the answer to this I am guessing.

General karthief · Nov 19, 2020

I understand your dilemma, with the factory manual you will be able to determine what is computer controlled and what is not, while your ac would not be controlled by the ecu, the ccr (constant control module) would control cooling fan and wide open throttle cut off switch, I would guess the ccr has been removed too.
The ac will require brackets from a 94-5 mustang V8 car and I would think the 94-5 hoses would work too.

revhead347 · Nov 20, 2020

I agree with karthief. Keep the mechanicals as close to stock as possible. You will have to do some wiring magic to make it work. It's probably not too complicated though.

Kurt

stanggt95 · Nov 21, 2020

revhead347 said:
I agree with karthief. Keep the mechanicals as close to stock as possible. You will have to do some wiring magic to make it work. It's probably not too complicated though.

Kurt

I'm leaning towards just driving it through the winter and fixing up on other areas of the car then when summer hits just taking it to an A/C shop and forking over the money to have them do it.

General karthief · Nov 21, 2020

Save some money and hunt down as many parts as you can first.
Did the po take the dryer hose off properly or cut it like the condenser?

kiddiccarus · Nov 21, 2020

Ok Buddy, I just ran the numbers here at the shop to give you an idea what a shop will charge you to do this work. This is under the assumption that the parts listed here are not present on the car now or they are unknown if they are functioning. This also is to restore it with an EFI system, any wiring or labor that would be needed for the swap to carb would be extra. Most shops like mine will tell you that if you are not replacing the Compressor, Drier, Orifice tube, Condenser and flushing the system that there will not be a warranty on it for parts or labor. Sucks but that is the case because something inside the lines can destroy it all. If you are paying someone to do it, get the warranty in writing..

Description:	Qty:	Hour:	Each:	Extended:
A/C COMPRESSOR	1	0	245.00	245.00
A/C CONDENSOR	1	0	190.00	190.00
A/C DRIER	1	0	75.00	75.00
A/C ORAFICE TUBE	1	0	10.00	10.00
FLUSH SOLVENT	1	0	35.00	35.00
INSTALL COMPRESSOR	0	1	80.00	80.00
INSTALL CONDENSOR	0	1	80.00	80.00
INSTALL DRIER	0	.5	80.00	40.00
INSTALL ORAFICE TUBE	0	.5	80.00	40.00

FLUSH SYSTEM	0	1	80.00	80.00
A/C HOSE	1	0	69.90	69.90
INSTALL HOSE	0	.5	80.00	40.00
EVAPORATOR CORE	1	0	169.00	169.00
INSTALL CORE	0	7.5	80.00	600.00
O RINGS	1	0	5.00	5.00
AIR CONDITIONING/DYE OIL	1	0	30.00	30.00
AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE	1	0	49.99	49.99
134A FREON	2	0	15.95	31.50
SHOP SUPPLIES	1	0	7.95	7.95

			Sub Total:	$1896.74
			Sales Tax:	$113.80
			Total:	$2010.55

General karthief · Nov 21, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Ok Buddy, I just ran the numbers here at the shop to give you an idea what a shop will charge you to do this work. This is under the assumption that the parts listed here are not present on the car now or they are unknown if they are functioning. This also is to restore it with an EFI system, any wiring or labor that would be needed for the swap to carb would be extra. Most shops like mine will tell you that if you are not replacing the Compressor, Drier, Orifice tube, Condenser and flushing the system that there will not be a warranty on it for parts or labor. Sucks but that is the case because something inside the lines can destroy it all. If you are paying someone to do it, get the warranty in writing..

Description: Qty: Hour: Each: Extended:
A/C COMPRESSOR 1 0 245.00 245.00
A/C CONDENSOR 1 0 190.00 190.00
A/C DRIER 1 0 75.00 75.00
A/C ORAFICE TUBE 1 0 10.00 10.00
FLUSH SOLVENT 1 0 35.00 35.00
INSTALL COMPRESSOR 0 1 80.00 80.00
INSTALL CONDENSOR 0 1 80.00 80.00
INSTALL DRIER 0 .5 80.00 40.00
INSTALL ORAFICE TUBE 0 .5 80.00 40.00

FLUSH SYSTEM 0 1 80.00 80.00
A/C HOSE 1 0 69.90 69.90
INSTALL HOSE 0 .5 80.00 40.00
EVAPORATOR CORE 1 0 169.00 169.00
INSTALL CORE 0 7.5 80.00 600.00
O RINGS 1 0 5.00 5.00
AIR CONDITIONING/DYE OIL 1 0 30.00 30.00
AIR CONDITIONING SERVICE 1 0 49.99 49.99
134A FREON 2 0 15.95 31.50
SHOP SUPPLIES 1 0 7.95 7.95

Sub Total: $1896.74
Sales Tax: $113.80
Total: $2010.55

This sounds about right.

stanggt95 · Nov 23, 2020

General karthief said:
This sounds about right.

When you say restore it with an EFI system are you assuming that I'm converting the car back to EFI?

Re installing factory air

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Member

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

The first widely accepted Tranny

Member

Member

Member

The first widely accepted Tranny

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Member

The first widely accepted Tranny

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

The first widely accepted Tranny

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Member

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