4k buy the time you get settled in. This includes blower kit, injectors, MAF, A/F and boost gauges. Then sprinkle in other stuff along the way.
Many of us have done this and then had head gasket problems putting our cars out of service until we spend more time and money. So depending on the situation of your engine, you may want to first pull the heads and redo head gaskets. This includes milling heads, decking block and going with upgraded gaskets. I've blown the Felpro 9333's and I'm done with them. Now my block is at machine shop getting prepped. This time I'm using Cometic gaskets.
Uhhh....not going to run 11's or low 12's with 308rwhp. Maybe with slicks and 5500rpm clutch drop you'll get to the low 12's. Fwiw. Oh and that's a stout little setup! Congrats.well, my engine is as follows and only has about 2300 ,miles on it since rebuild.
stock bottom end with new rings,bearings,oil pump,etc
was built on the tight side with king bearings, but for the life of me, cant remember what i got my clearences at on the rods and mains..i just know it was in spec but on the tighter side. the block had been decked so much by previouse owner, the pistons just did come out of the deck. took a machinist straight edge to it and it looked straight, so i left it alone.lol
*Anderson n41 cam, stock lifters with unknown miles. but hey, they work.lol
*new pushrods after discovering the stock ones had 1 bent
*crappy proform 1.6 roller rockers that never seem to be shimmed right.....maybe i do need new lifters??...hmmm
* upgraded valve springs with 153lb/seat preassure on intake and 149lb/seat pressure in the exhaust. the set just ended up having that difference when i tested them.
* f3ze gt40's that i milled .015" off for 61cc cambers to end up with right at 9.7:1 compression.some light bowl work and cleanup/porting on the intake with a good bit of work on the exhaust side new seats,reused stock valves
*24lb injectors that were used(regretting that)
*china edlebrock clone intake.
*65mm TB
* c&l elbow and 76mm MAF housing and 24lb sampling tube and filter stuck on the end.
*long tube headers,offroad H-pipe and 40 flows 2.5" through out
rest of the car is
*ram HDX clutch rated for 400hp(? i think)
*new astro budget t5
*stock drive shaft
*3.73's and a posi thats starting to show its age.
* subframe connectors that i welded in.
car weights in a 3020lbs with a half tank of 112 and me in it. its a 91 gt.
i havent yet had it to the track. bench racing says with all things right, i would be around the low 12's very high 11's.
dynoed at 308WHP with no tune.
with all that in mind, i want to put a walboro 255 in the tank. previous owner said it had a 155 but he lied about everything else,so i dont trust that. what do yall think would be my best course of action? i cant remember the part number on the head gaskets but they were the blue felpros with the steel ring.
So I'm looking into the entry level vortech blower kit for the fox. I'm wondering what I will need to buy along with the kit. Also, what is the real world cost and headache etc. Kinda hoping this will help others that are looking to go down this road.
well, my engine is as follows and only has about 2300 ,miles on it since rebuild.
stock bottom end with new rings,bearings,oil pump,etc
was built on the tight side with king bearings, but for the life of me, cant remember what i got my clearences at on the rods and mains..i just know it was in spec but on the tighter side. the block had been decked so much by previouse owner, the pistons just did come out of the deck. took a machinist straight edge to it and it looked straight, so i left it alone.lol
*Anderson n41 cam, stock lifters with unknown miles. but hey, they work.lol
*new pushrods after discovering the stock ones had 1 bent
*crappy proform 1.6 roller rockers that never seem to be shimmed right.....maybe i do need new lifters??...hmmm
* upgraded valve springs with 153lb/seat preassure on intake and 149lb/seat pressure in the exhaust. the set just ended up having that difference when i tested them.
* f3ze gt40's that i milled .015" off for 61cc cambers to end up with right at 9.7:1 compression.some light bowl work and cleanup/porting on the intake with a good bit of work on the exhaust side new seats,reused stock valves
*24lb injectors that were used(regretting that)
*china edlebrock clone intake.
*65mm TB
* c&l elbow and 76mm MAF housing and 24lb sampling tube and filter stuck on the end.
*long tube headers,offroad H-pipe and 40 flows 2.5" through out
rest of the car is
*ram HDX clutch rated for 400hp(? i think)
*new astro budget t5
*stock drive shaft
*3.73's and a posi thats starting to show its age.
* subframe connectors that i welded in.
car weights in a 3020lbs with a half tank of 112 and me in it. its a 91 gt.
i havent yet had it to the track. bench racing says with all things right, i would be around the low 12's very high 11's.
dynoed at 308WHP with no tune.
with all that in mind, i want to put a walboro 255 in the tank. previous owner said it had a 155 but he lied about everything else,so i dont trust that. what do yall think would be my best course of action? i cant remember the part number on the head gaskets but they were the blue felpros with the steel ring.
that is maybe a high to mid 12 second car with the right driver and DR or slicks.
For an entry level (5-6 lbs of boost) you may be able to get away with the 24# injectors and the FMU. I would however want to swap in at least 42's , ditch the FMU and get a tune. You will also want to ensure your cooling system is up to the task, and I would get an aftermarket ingition box.
I would estimate to spend around $2500 to $3000 if buying used.. Add another $100 or so if new.
The bypass valve has nothing to do with excess boost going into the engine. It has to do with when the the throttle blade slams shut and there is still pressure in the discharge pipe the valve opens and dumps it right back before the blower inlet other wise the boost with the tb shut will cause compressor surge and eventually blow the seals out of the blower.Well I just sold a entry kit new for $1900 last week....that might of saved some dinero.
It's now for sale with extras over at Corral.
The men above speak the truth, but I'll add a little. Although the entry kit is a good value at first glance, pay a little more and get the kit that comes with the bypass valve and ignition retard. It's also 6 rib instead of 8 rib.
Personally the bypass is important especially since our cars are getting older and may not be able to absorb the excess boost like they use to when the kit was released
well, my engine is as follows and only has about 2300 ,miles on it since rebuild.
stock bottom end with new rings,bearings,oil pump,etc
was built on the tight side with king bearings, but for the life of me, cant remember what i got my clearences at on the rods and mains..i just know it was in spec but on the tighter side. the block had been decked so much by previouse owner, the pistons just did come out of the deck. took a machinist straight edge to it and it looked straight, so i left it alone.lol
*Anderson n41 cam, stock lifters with unknown miles. but hey, they work.lol
*new pushrods after discovering the stock ones had 1 bent
*crappy proform 1.6 roller rockers that never seem to be shimmed right.....maybe i do need new lifters??...hmmm
* upgraded valve springs with 153lb/seat preassure on intake and 149lb/seat pressure in the exhaust. the set just ended up having that difference when i tested them.
* f3ze gt40's that i milled .015" off for 61cc cambers to end up with right at 9.7:1 compression.some light bowl work and cleanup/porting on the intake with a good bit of work on the exhaust side new seats,reused stock valves
*24lb injectors that were used(regretting that)
*china edlebrock clone intake.
*65mm TB
* c&l elbow and 76mm MAF housing and 24lb sampling tube and filter stuck on the end.
*long tube headers,offroad H-pipe and 40 flows 2.5" through out
rest of the car is
*ram HDX clutch rated for 400hp(? i think)
*new astro budget t5
*stock drive shaft
*3.73's and a posi thats starting to show its age.
* subframe connectors that i welded in.
car weights in a 3020lbs with a half tank of 112 and me in it. its a 91 gt.
i havent yet had it to the track. bench racing says with all things right, i would be around the low 12's very high 11's.
dynoed at 308WHP with no tune.
with all that in mind, i want to put a walboro 255 in the tank. previous owner said it had a 155 but he lied about everything else,so i dont trust that. what do yall think would be my best course of action? i cant remember the part number on the head gaskets but they were the blue felpros with the steel ring.
Well...yeah!For the record... I am totally biased, but I like to go fast. That's why I choose Vortech
irate:
Well...yeah!
With slightly more than 400rwhp! Lmao
I totally forgot to mention the 6al .Personally, I would like to see you with the following:
Vortech V3 Si trim tuner kit, 42lb injectors and matching meter, 340lph fuel pump, MSD 6AL or equivelant and custom dyno tune. I prefer to see head studs but a set of ARP head bolts will work just fine. I think you will be ok with the compression you have listed so long as you run 93 octane fuel at a minimum. FWIW, the 112 you are using now is an absolute waste until you have an effective compression ratio over 14:1 in a n/a motor, even boosted I would skip the racegas on your particular combo. I would expect the above mentioned upgrades to make in excess of 400 rwhp and provide you with mid to low 11 second time slips. Expect the stock pulleys to make around 10 lbs on a combo like yours at 6,000 rpm. I think you can wind up completing this all in the 4,000$ range with all the parts without issue. Keep in mind that you will need to find a competent tuner to put the finishing touches on things. If you would like me to quote you on a new Si kit just shoot me a PM, I would be happy to do so.
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