Really Confused on installing new lifters NEED HELP

Whats so confusing? You need to be more specific on what you dont understand. Replacing lifters are pretty easy. While your at it, you should be checking your pushrods and rockers, make sure that you valvetrain is still good.

I assume that you are running stock rockers? Pedistal mount, not stud mounted?
I have seen people just lay there new hydrolic lifters in oil and let them soak it in I guess. I dont know how cam companies want you to do it, but I have seen this way work and they did tick a little bit on start up but went away almost instantly.

I would let the lifters soak in oil for 24-48 hours before install, also if you have stock rockers all you need to do is torq them down to specs, put the motor on TDC before you remove anything...just my .02

SET THE ROCKERS AT 22 FOOT POUNDS IF THEY ARE PEDESTAL MOUNT

Let them soak for a day, you'll see little air bubbles come up from them

Juiced88Coupe said:

I would let the lifters soak in oil for 24-48 hours before install, also if you have stock rockers all you need to do is torq them down to specs, put the motor on TDC before you remove anything...just my .02

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I agree with letting the lifters soak in oil for 24-48 hours or just using an assembly lube if you are in a rush, but how will setting the motor at TDC help? The reason I ask is that I'm also gonna replace my FMS lifters/FMS pushrods and Crane "Cobra" rockers this weekend as well, since I've procrastinated doing this for way too long.

Wow - there's a lot of myth and misinformation here. There is no need or benefit to soaking lifters in oil before installing them. Put a good coat of heavy assembly lube on the rollers, and in the cups. If you want to assure that they're full of oil before start up (and you should), the proper way to do that is to pull the distributor, and use a drill/shaft to turn the oil pump and prime the system. This should be done after the rockers are installed. Prime the pump until a steady stream of oil comes up each pushrod and flows down over each rocker. Your lifters will be full of oil and ready for start up. If you really want to get a bit of oil everywhere before start up, have a friend put a socket on the crank bolt and rotate the engine a bit while you're priming.

For the stock pedestal mount rockers - rotate the engine by hand so the pair you're installing are on the base circle or heel of the cam -- that is, the valves they control should be closed during the install. If you have that piston at tdc at the end of the compression stroke - both will be closed. Put the rockers on and tighten the bolt by hand until there is zero lash - no gap on the valve stem end or the pushrod end. Then torque to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting turns -- you should hit that torque somewhere between 1/4 and 1 turn of the bolt AFTER starting the torquing process at zero lash. If you kept track of what rocker went where, they'll probably all hit the torque around 1/2 a turn of the bolt after zero lash. If they take more than 1 turn to hit the torque, you'll need a shim kit to shim that rocker a bit higher. If they hit torque in less than 1/4 turn, or you aren't able to get to zero lash even with them tightened - you'll need longer pushrods, or to remove some material evenly from the bottom of the rocker trunion. You shouldn't have those problems putting a stock set up back together.

Good luck with it.

what could happen if you adjusted them like stud mount rockers. i adjusted my pedistal like stud mount. and the car runs fine. they werent both closed when i adjusted mine

The proper installation procedure is there mainly to let you know if there are gap/geometry issues. Since the hydraulic set ups aren't technically 'adjustable' it's important to know if everything is gonna have the proper dimensional relationships. The installation procedure described above will tell you that. grippper - in a way, you lucked out. You're set up is dimensionally ok - so just bolting them on and torquing them down worked out for you. The point is, the way you did it, had their been a dimensional anomoly you wouldn't have known it til you cranked it, which could have caused some damage depending on the problem.

If it's running ok and not making unusual noises, don't worry about it. But next time you mess with one or more importantly change components that could alter dimensions, you'll know the proper way to install so that problems will rear their heads in a way that you can solve them before doing damage.