I did get myself a pushrod measuring kit. I just figured with the heads milled a bit for compression and all the changes to the valvetrain, I was better off measuring before I bought some.
Good you had a break, if you needed one, thought this was done, already.
Most get to the point where They need drop the Wrenchbf orva bitb& reset.
Went back through the thread started in early June, to refresh my memory, looks as though the last portion was aimed at Heads going on, as you did the nd were also thinking of the Lower Intake porting. Also, the importance of keeping it as stock looking as possible. Had most of your parts, wasn’t certain about the Cobra’s intake piping, the factory airbox is great in most Mustangs, it’s the ducting from the box, to MAF, and MAF to T.Body that’s the restriction.
As you’re looking between the 280-310HP (RWHP) range, that restriction shouldn’t hurt you much, but I’ve seen 375RWHP made with a Cobra’s airbox & Intake Tuning, i wouldn’t be that concerned about that, you can always use a retrofit of a larger size with the factory look out of another vehicle of the same Genre’ without catching the eye of most, like a piece of later model Ford’s Diesel engine piping to the OE box. (Just an example). All of this isn’t anything to worry about just yet, have to get it running, Driving, seat those rings in, after 200 miles- Full Synthetic Oil after the initial Oil with Lucas oil stabilizer- contains lots of:
1) ZINC, important where everything rides on a film of oil, as it should.and PTFE (Equivalent to wet ice on wet I’ve, but with detergent oil, it helps assembly debris from adhering, getting it into the Filter. changed after its initial run and a few miles on it, going to the same (cut the filter open each time and see what your catching, if it looks good, another round with 10-30 Detergent, Lucas oil Stabilizer
Net benefit of this is a strong performing, fun to drive Cars & well worth a few busted knuckles, money to make it solid, both inherent side effect(s). .
KR-1 GT40 Cam should be a Great Cam for your GT40 Setup, with the larger exhaust valve.
You were having trouble Degreeing the Cam in, then got past that with the 9 position Crank Gear & Billet Cam Gear with the Thrust bushing & then the Cam bushing fitting Has anything changed(?) Thought it was already set in terms of valvetrain Geometry & P/V clearance.. Inwent backwards and reviewed the thread from the beginning to get re-acquainted with the build.
Whatever information You need to finish it, will help you in that capacity, no
Problem. where are you at, if you’re stuck on something? All you need to do is ask- no question about this is irrelevant, needs to be correct
If you want to get this up and running, id focus on acquiring the Pushrods you need, I’m thinking they SHOULD be around you
Pedestal Mount Rockers are a bit more difficult to size a pushrod, no adjustment, you may need to Shim some, others not.
it’ll handle your 125lb/closed-340lb open Spring loads just fine. Pedestals will work fine, not the ideal choice, but they’ll work for you just fine. You’d bought a pushrod checker just for some closure, Block Casting anomalies are rare in this area, only slight- 0.010-0.060 pedestal height differences, unless you had an earlier flat Tappet Block, now changed to
a Roller Block. You’re running the “Doggie bones” for lifter roller/Cam alignment, not the Hi-Po Rockers?
Other explanations may be:
1) Running a Cam with a smaller Base circle. GT40”KR” Hyd. Roller Cam-right?
2) Work done to the Heads, possibly new seats installed, may have lessened the installed height. Typically, creates a taller Valve height, not always
4) Head gaskets thicker to offset flycut cthickness, they’re based on how much the piston is “in the hole” at TDC.
5) Valve Stem ends surface ground, affecting overall height.
6) Valve lash Caps installed on Valve stem’s.