recipe for 300 rwhp

[01PonyGT]

As some of you may have read, I'm starting my swap this weekend and will be keeping everything pretty much stock for now just to get the swap done and get rid of the donor TurboCoupe. However, I will probably be looking to rebuild after the summer and do the A4LD to T-5 swap. So here's my question:
What are your suggestions for making a reliable 300 rwhp? What parts should I include in the eventual rebuild? I have a local speed shop that will be rebuilding my long block. I assume that an upgrade from the IHI to T3 Turbo is inevitable as is a FMIC. Anything else? Piston choice? Cam? Head? over bore/stroker?

Thanks,
WES

 

[StangerJon]

yes going T3 would be better than IHI, also go to about 20#'s of boost, better fuel pump/injectors and such, exhaust manifold, 3 inch down pipe, gut the upper intake/ knife the lower. port the stock head.

thats all I can think of right now, plenty more to be done though. that should get you pretty close though.

 

[Stinger]

You don't have any reason to touch the block/bottom end for 300rwhp...especially if you have to pay someone else to do it.

 

[01PonyGT]

You don't have any reason to touch the block/bottom end for 300rwhp...especially if you have to pay someone else to do it.

Thanks for the reply, Stinger, but could you elaborate a little on that? Are you saying that the stock bottom end can handle 300 rwhp without any problems? It's smoking pretty bad with only 82,000 miles so I thought a rebuild was the way to go, that way i know exactly what I have. Right now I have a smoking 2.3T in a TurboCoupe with an unknown maintainence history. Should I just do the head, cam, intake, turbo, & exhaust and leave the bottom end? I guess I'll know the condition a little better once I get it in the Mustang and run it for a little bit.

WES

 

[kiddiccarus]

Yes a bone stock bottom will handle 300, There is a differnece in needing the bottom end rebuilt and wanting to rebuild it. If you want to rebuild it I would go with speed-pro pistons and Cower rods.. The speed-pro are forged the danger of a "shop" rebuild is that you have to make sure that you specify the pistons that you want, if you dont you will most likely get hyperconnetic pistons that dont work with turbo applications.

 

[Stinger]

Yes, there have been stock blocks in the 10's...I bet that's a bit more than 300hp

Do you know WHY it's smoking? I'd bet on it being valve seals, valves, or turbo seals before I'd say the rings were bad. 82k miles? That's nothing...that's a fresh 2.3T. Do a compression check, do a leakdown test, etc. Then you will know what kind of shape your bottom end is in.

When does it smoke (startup, WOT, idle, etc.) and what color is it?

Stinger

 

[01PonyGT]

Yes, there have been stock blocks in the 10's...I bet that's a bit more than 300hp

Do you know WHY it's smoking? I'd bet on it being valve seals, valves, or turbo seals before I'd say the rings were bad. 82k miles? That's nothing...that's a fresh 2.3T. Do a compression check, do a leakdown test, etc. Then you will know what kind of shape your bottom end is in.

When does it smoke (startup, WOT, idle, etc.) and what color is it?

Stinger

I've only run it for a combined total of about 30 minutes since I've had it (it's still in the TC) so I really can't say too much about it. I will say that I drove it around the block a few times (don't tell the police....no plates) and it ran fine, but it puffed out white smoke for a while after start up.

WES

 

[Stinger]

White smoke is water not oil...sounds like a blown headgasket or cracked head...or major condensation....

 

[01PonyGT]

White smoke is water not oil...sounds like a blown headgasket or cracked head...or major condensation....

Ok, I'll check all that when I pull the engine out. thanks.

Let me modify my question:
What parts will get me to 300 rwhp using a stock short block??

WES

 

[Stinger]

ported stuff, a big front mount IC, cranked up fuel pressure, a perfect tune, and 25psi.

Stinger

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Sorry but since we are close enough to this subject I figured I would ask and hope I'm not Hijacking his thread.

About what kind of dimentions on a FMIC are we talking about that would get you into the 300hp range? I'm porting everything I can get a Die grinder on but I'm still using the stock IC. I really want to use something different than a volvo IC, something I could through up in the noise and out of the way. Also would CO2 sprayed on the IC help right off the line or is that a waste of time/money? I seen a guy do it and it cooled his IC big time after a run. I also know my turbo with a good FMIC wouldn't get 25psi either so would I need to get it rebuilt or seek something else?

 

[StangerJon]

I've only run it for a combined total of about 30 minutes since I've had it (it's still in the TC) so I really can't say too much about it. I will say that I drove it around the block a few times (don't tell the police....no plates) and it ran fine, but it puffed out white smoke for a while after start up.

WES

was the car sitting a while before you noticed the smoke?

because after I took my SVO out of winter storage it smoked a little for about an hour, now it is completely gone.

 

[Stinger]

Sorry but since we are close enough to this subject I figured I would ask and hope I'm not Hijacking his thread.

About what kind of dimentions on a FMIC are we talking about that would get you into the 300hp range? I'm porting everything I can get a Die grinder on but I'm still using the stock IC. I really want to use something different than a volvo IC, something I could through up in the noise and out of the way. Also would CO2 sprayed on the IC help right off the line or is that a waste of time/money? I seen a guy do it and it cooled his IC big time after a run. I also know my turbo with a good FMIC wouldn't get 25psi either so would I need to get it rebuilt or seek something else?

Well, it can be done with the stock IC...it's just not the most efficient way to do it. Best bet is an Isuzu NPR or other large truck IC. CO2 spraying is a good way to make a crappy IC a good IC. Your turbo can push 24psi...that's pretty close to 25. Actually, your turbo can push 30psi if you want it to...it just won't make any more power than at 25psi unless you have a killer way to chill the air charge. Don't take this as an "if I get a front mount and run 25psi I'll make 300rwhp" though, it doesn't work like that.

Stinger

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Don't take this as an "if I get a front mount and run 25psi I'll make 300rwhp" though, it doesn't work like that.

Stinger

crap and I had my hopes up J/K I know there is a hair more to it than that but a FMIC is a nice start towards that goal

 

[kiddiccarus]

CO2 spraying is a good way to make a crappy IC a good IC.

Will it improve any on a "good" intercooler? Large NPR specifically! or is this a waste of time?

 

[Stinger]

Well, Compressed C02 is extremely cold (below freezing) so yes, it will make a good IC cooler. Unless it's -10º outside.

 

[lxturbo]

DO NOT FORGET FUEL!!!!

 

[kiddiccarus]

Thanks Stinger, I dont think that I will be going that route from the start but may add it later for track use.

 

[ib_steed]

ported stuff, a big front mount IC, cranked up fuel pressure, a perfect tune, and 25psi.

How much Fuel pressure are you talkin for 20-25psi?

Anything besides what you have listed above, that you would need before reaching 25psi? (besides the basics, i.e. forged internals, blah, blah)

 

[Stinger]

Stock fuel pressure is 38psi at idle and 53psi under full boost (15psi). You would probably need to turn the base pressure up in the 55-60psi range to support 300hp with the stock injectors.

If you have enough fuel, cool enough air, good fuel (most likely 96+octane) and a good tune then that's all you need to run 24-25psi.