I work at Napa Auto Parts and i can get a remanufacted cobra crank for $187.00 it has a $97.00 core charge (I will have to eat the core) and was wondering if it would be safe to run with my motor build? The car will be expected to have 450-500hp.
Remanufacted Cobra Crank?
- Thread starter mustangman9812
- Start date
As TGJ stated....the stock Nodular Iron crank will easily handle 450-500hp. Otherwise, unless you're planning on seeing a lot of time between 6.500-7,000RPM, the steel crank is overkill.
stangGT97
New Member
To be honest, I really think the Cobra Crank is over-rated, especially for a street car. If I was building a race car, I would consider it but not in a street car. It is heavier than the cast crank and is going to cost you HP because of that. I have never seen a cast crank break, people have pushed into the 700 - 800 HP zone without breaking a cast crank, people have pushed the cast crank to over 8000 RPM's without breaking a cast crank. The only cranks I have ever seen fail is that forged Cobra Crank and I know of 2 cases where it did. If you want it, go ahead and use it but it really is not worth it. That is my $0.02 on the Cobra crank period.
And before you go plopping down your money on what you think might be a Forged Crank, make sure you're getting what you pay for. I've seen more than one occasion where Mustang parts have been mislabeled. I don't mean to piss in your cornflakes, but $187.00 sounds too good to be true for a Forged Crank....even with an additional $97.00 core. Only part number verification will tell you for sure.
I’ll bet you willy’s life that it’s a stock Nodular Iron 2V crank you’re getting for that price and not the Forged Cobra piece.
I’ll bet you willy’s life that it’s a stock Nodular Iron 2V crank you’re getting for that price and not the Forged Cobra piece.
Well....feel free to get it then, but I personally think that your money could be better spent someplace else......like on billet oil pump gears, for starters. 
If factory crank can take 500hp+ then why change it. I am just stressing a new point that you can get a reman crank for $600 or more less than a new cobra crank
i really would like som more opinions ans answers about this topic also. i am also going to be getting a built engine but money is tight. if i dont need to shell out the extra cash for the cobra crank then i wont.
however i do want my engine to be strong and durable. i will be pushing 14-15psi and getting around that 500rwhp mark also. my tuner told me som parts i needed for the build in a breif conversation. he mentioned the cobra crank.....so i thought that was the way to go. i guess he puts them in other cars he does.
however, ive been hearing on here for years that it is not the crank that needs to be forged.
one more thing. is there adifference between a cobra crank and a forged crank? can they just forge a regular crank or somthing. in vt engines for ex. they say forged crank not cobra crank?
however i do want my engine to be strong and durable. i will be pushing 14-15psi and getting around that 500rwhp mark also. my tuner told me som parts i needed for the build in a breif conversation. he mentioned the cobra crank.....so i thought that was the way to go. i guess he puts them in other cars he does.
however, ive been hearing on here for years that it is not the crank that needs to be forged.
one more thing. is there adifference between a cobra crank and a forged crank? can they just forge a regular crank or somthing. in vt engines for ex. they say forged crank not cobra crank?
If I were you, I wouldn't go anywhere near a "reman" crank!
Reman'd from what?? You'll never know what the original damage was. It could've been bent, scored, etc.. Chances are, they just turn the main and rod journals down. This means you need bearings for undersized journals, and that means thicker bearings, which means you have more "soft" material between your crank and your rod. I don't like the way that sounds, especially in a high hp application.
If you decide to use one, by all means...get it balanced!!
BTW, you can verify the fact that it's forged by looking at it. It'll have counterweights on either side of the center main journal, where cast cranks do not.
Reman'd from what?? You'll never know what the original damage was. It could've been bent, scored, etc.. Chances are, they just turn the main and rod journals down. This means you need bearings for undersized journals, and that means thicker bearings, which means you have more "soft" material between your crank and your rod. I don't like the way that sounds, especially in a high hp application.
If you decide to use one, by all means...get it balanced!!
BTW, you can verify the fact that it's forged by looking at it. It'll have counterweights on either side of the center main journal, where cast cranks do not.
so yall are saying that if someone is gunna build their motor and have around 450-500 they should just stick with a stock crank? i might be rebuilding my motor soon and i figured id just build my lower end *pistons, crank, rods, yall know* and a friend of mine said its best to just build the lower end while the motor is out and at the machine shop. seeing as they are gunna bore it over and turn the crank and rods he said just get forged pistons, crank, and rods so that if i ever want to its already built to handle it. it would suck to bore it out and do all that work to just go back and do it all over again. what you guys suggest?
Similar threads
