Remanufacted Cobra Crank?

M

my95gtstang

New Member

May 9, 2004

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Chesapeake, VA

Aug 16, 2006

#21

• Aug 16, 2006

• #21

well i plan on having 450-500 whp. but he said it would be best just to have it just because and plus since im gunna have the block apart at the machine shop he said just go ahead and do it now incase i ever wanted to do it later so that i dont end up doing it twice and it would be a money saver in the long run. i just want a nice 450ish daily haha. but i saw the thread and figured id chime in and ask a question i was wondering about.

 

RandyStinchcomb

New Member

May 25, 2005

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Randallstown, Md

Aug 16, 2006

#22

• Aug 16, 2006

• #22

[QUOTE='01 Steed]If I were you, I wouldn't go anywhere near a "reman" crank!
Reman'd from what?? You'll never know what the original damage was. It could've been bent, scored, etc.. Chances are, they just turn the main and rod journals down. This means you need bearings for undersized journals, and that means thicker bearings, which means you have more "soft" material between your crank and your rod. I don't like the way that sounds, especially in a high hp application.
If you decide to use one, by all means...get it balanced!!

BTW, you can verify the fact that it's forged by looking at it. It'll have counterweights on either side of the center main journal, where cast cranks do not.[/QUOTE]


and here is your #1 correct answer Good Job

 

'01 Steed

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Aug 2, 2002

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Michigan

Aug 16, 2006

#23

• Aug 16, 2006

• #23

Thanks Randy! Every once in a while, I say something that actually makes sense, LOL!!

 

RandyStinchcomb

New Member

May 25, 2005

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Randallstown, Md

Aug 16, 2006

#24

• Aug 16, 2006

• #24

[QUOTE='01 Steed]Thanks Randy! Every once in a while, I say something that actually makes sense, LOL!![/QUOTE]



well you done good, you hit the nail square on the head. could not have said it any better myself also I question the price of the "Cobra re-maned" crank, new there @$1k and that "parts store" price is more in-line wth a standard 4.6 crank, not a Cobra also most parts stores don't have stuff listed correctly ne-way, been down that road before

 

jstreet0204

Active Member

Jun 26, 2003

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Winston Salem, NC

Aug 16, 2006

#25

• Aug 16, 2006

• #25

Fact is, unless you are buying an entire rotating assembly, you are going to have to have some machine work done anyway to balance it to your other components. The machine shop will be able to tell you if the crank is good or not. If not, take it back.

 

mustangman9812

10 Year Member

Jan 14, 2004

661

6

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Mars Hill, NC

Aug 16, 2006

#26

• Aug 16, 2006

• #26

It is A COBRA CRANK. Not a Standard 4.6 CRANK.

And I Quote -
Part No. BP2092 - HTC Crankshaft Reman
8 Bolt Flange Mounting, With Forged Steel Crankshaft.
Forging Number # F8TECE

Un Quote

 

'01 Steed

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Aug 2, 2002

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Michigan

Aug 16, 2006

#27

• Aug 16, 2006

• #27

RandyStinchcomb said:

... also most parts stores don't have stuff listed correctly ne-way, been down that road before

Click to expand...

Me too!

 

RandyStinchcomb

New Member

May 25, 2005

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Randallstown, Md

Aug 16, 2006

#28

• Aug 16, 2006

• #28

mustangman9812 said:

It is A COBRA CRANK. Not a Standard 4.6 CRANK.

And I Quote -
Part No. BP2092 - HTC Crankshaft Reman
8 Bolt Flange Mounting, With Forged Steel Crankshaft.
Forging Number # F8TECE

Un Quote

Click to expand...

dude that don't meen squat, unless you got the crank in your hand and see it for yourself. I've been in this business for 30 years and have seen plenty of stuff mis-labeled and plenty of mistakes here and there

 

'01 Steed

Founding Member

Aug 2, 2002

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Michigan

Aug 16, 2006

#29

• Aug 16, 2006

• #29

mustangman9812 said:

It is A COBRA CRANK. Not a Standard 4.6 CRANK.

And I Quote -
Part No. BP2092 - HTC Crankshaft Reman
8 Bolt Flange Mounting, With Forged Steel Crankshaft.
Forging Number # F8TECE

Un Quote

Click to expand...

The problem is that a Forged crank's Forging # is F6TE-CE.

Now maybe they just had a hard time reading the "6". I know that that digit is a bit blurry on those forgings.

I'll look some other cranks to see if I can find an F8TE*

 

'01 Steed

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Aug 2, 2002

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Michigan

Aug 16, 2006

#30

• Aug 16, 2006

• #30

Unable to find anything other than the F6TE-CE. It's probably just a misread as I stated above.

Bottom line, none of this changes the fact that you'd be installing a piece of garbage in your nice new build up. That's fine if you're rebuilding a 4 banger Dodge Daytona and you're using it as a grocery getter. But I wouldn't touch one of those with the proverbial 10' pole.

 

mustangman9812

10 Year Member

Jan 14, 2004

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Mars Hill, NC

Aug 16, 2006

#31

• Aug 16, 2006

• #31

haha. Well i aint going to use it i was just telling about it

 

mustangman9812

10 Year Member

Jan 14, 2004

661

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Mars Hill, NC

Aug 16, 2006

#32

• Aug 16, 2006

• #32

I am sticking with the cast crank

 

'01 Steed

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Aug 2, 2002

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Michigan

Aug 16, 2006

#33

• Aug 16, 2006

• #33

good call.

 

0

01Steeda

New Member

May 29, 2005

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Baton Rouge, LA

Aug 16, 2006

#34

• Aug 16, 2006

• #34

besides the different bolt pattern, whats is different about the 4.6L truck crank vs. the mustang crank?

 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash

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Aug 10, 2002

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Ontario, Canada

Aug 16, 2006

#35

• Aug 16, 2006

• #35

Just remember....no matter which crank you decide to use, you're going to have to have it ballance it to the weights of your new rods and pistons. I found that one out the hard way.


....and all 4.6L 2V cranks are the same. They're only specific to their designated Romeo or Windsor flywheel.

 

6

66bluepony

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Nov 7, 2004

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Jun 11, 2007

#36

• Jun 11, 2007

• #36

Crank

Most reman cranks are welded somewhere. Pass on reman.