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Removal of bushings from rear end. Please help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Green 94 5.0
  • Start date Start date Sep 4, 2011
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Green 94 5.0

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#1
  • Sep 4, 2011
  • #1
So while working on the rear suspension today, everything is going fine until we reach the UCA's. The control arm came out with no issue, but the bushing in the rearend housing is being much more stubborn. We tried banging it out, drilling out the bushing, prying it out yet it wont budge. We have soaked it in WD40 as well. At tis point we started to grind at the front of it, but I would rather not keep going with the grinder unless it is absolutely necessary. Does anyone have any tips?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#2
  • Sep 4, 2011
  • #2
Removing the bushings from the axle?

Assumeing you have new bushings thst dont reuse the outer sleeves, take a Sharp drill bit and drill the rubber out. At some point you should be able to bang the inner sleeves out, then take the rubber out. Then with hammer and chisel hit the inner sleeves inward to collapse and shrink them. Then they should come right out.

For installation, a balljoint tool may help, but max motorsports specifically makes a tool for installation and removal.
 

v8stang289

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#3
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I have had success using an air hammer with a chisel point to cave in a few places around the outer shell of the bushing, and then using the air hammer to drive it out. Of course this is if you aren't reusing the outer shell. If you are, you can probably burn the rubber out with a torch.
 

Beasty306GT

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#4
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your gonna need the maximum motorsports bushing tool
 
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Green 94 5.0

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We are not reusing the outer housing. Team Z spherical bushings are going in to replace the tired rubber bushings. I just wanted to be sure that the pick it apart piece by piece method was the only route to go. That MM tool looks like it would definitely get the job done, but I would hate to spend the $30 for a tool that will hopefully be used once and never used again. Thanks for the input guys. I will post the results.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Green 94 5.0 said:
That MM tool looks like it would definitely get the job done, but I would hate to spend the $30 for a tool that will hopefully be used once and never used again.
Click to expand...

You might not need it again but a buddy of yours might so it's a good investment, and think of all the cussing that it'll save you.
 

jrichker

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Option #1
Green 94 5.0] That MM tool looks like it would definitely get the job done said:
I have had success using an air hammer with a chisel point to cave in a few places around the outer shell of the bushing, and then using the air hammer to drive it out. Of course this is if you aren't reusing the outer shell. If you are, you can probably burn the rubber out with a torch.
Click to expand...

I would do the same thing, but if you don't have an air compressor and air chisel, see option #1
 
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Green 94 5.0

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#8
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Well, after weighing the cost of the tool compared to my time, i ordered it. I also took the opportunity to order a few more bushings i needed in the process. Thanks to everyone who replied.
 

Maryland Stang

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#9
  • Sep 7, 2011
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Yup. I have the tool. It's been sitting in my toolbox for 3 years. I used it once and it paid for it's self on one use.
 

90lxcoupe

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After reading stories about that MM tool not working and seizing up, i decieded not to go that route...

Its not as hard as everyone makes it out to be! The tool is not needed, this job can be done in one hour tops. It took me 30 minutes to do it.

Drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, i think i used a 3/8'' bit. After you have a few holes in you can actually rotate the drill around the metal sleeve and this will totally take the rubber out of it. From there i used a sawz all to cut the sleeve, be careful not to cut into the rear housing. After it has a cut in it, you just hammer it out of the housing. Its pretty simple, dosent cost $50(tool cost plus shipping), and you dont have to wait the time it takes to ship from Cali to Florida to get a tool that might not even work.
 

wythors

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90lxcoupe said:
After reading stories about that MM tool not working and seizing up, i decieded not to go that route...

Its not as hard as everyone makes it out to be! The tool is not needed, this job can be done in one hour tops. It took me 30 minutes to do it.

Drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, i think i used a 3/8'' bit. After you have a few holes in you can actually rotate the drill around the metal sleeve and this will totally take the rubber out of it. From there i used a sawz all to cut the sleeve, be careful not to cut into the rear housing. After it has a cut in it, you just hammer it out of the housing. Its pretty simple, dosent cost $50(tool cost plus shipping), and you dont have to wait the time it takes to ship from Cali to Florida to get a tool that might not even work.
Click to expand...

I have never heard any story of the tool not working. It is a ultra simple, fool proof design. In and out in less than fifteen minutes a side, plus it sets the new bushing at the proper depth. You've obviously never used it.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#12
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i banged mine out with an air hammer and a dull bit. took about 45 seconds per side
 

90lxcoupe

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wythors said:
I have never heard any story of the tool not working. It is a ultra simple, fool proof design. In and out in less than fifteen minutes a side, plus it sets the new bushing at the proper depth. You've obviously never used it.
Click to expand...

You are correct, Ive never used it, never said i even tried it, i figured that was pretty clear in my post. I read from a few different guys on corral saying the tool didnt work, I have no reason to lie about it.

Also in my post was where i said it took me 30 minutes, which is 15 per side and i saved myself $50 dollars in the process. I also didnt put bushings in that needed any kind of adjustment, so again, the tool is useless to me and everyone else that is using a soild piece in the axle housing.
 

VibrantRedGT

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#14
  • Sep 8, 2011
  • #14
Like Green mentioned we got the busing completely out, just the sleeve left. Since the MM tool won't work without the bushing present we will need to chisel or cut the sleeve out. The other side we will just use the tool when it arrives. Those axle ears are pretty thin to be heating up and bang out.

Here are some pics.








How wasted are these quad shocks? They haven't been doing anything in years except adding weight.

 

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TenorPlayinGuy

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What are Quad shocks for?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#16
  • Sep 8, 2011
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TenorPlayinGuy said:
What are Quad shocks for?
Click to expand...

That thing called wheel hops that guys claim goes away with aftermarket control arms but sometimes doesn't and then they wonder why
 
G

Green 94 5.0

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#17
  • Sep 8, 2011
  • #17
Mustang5L5 said:
That thing called wheel hops that guys claim goes away with aftermarket control arms but sometimes doesn't and then they wonder why
Click to expand...
I have always been reluctant to remove parts put there by the factory just on someone's word that they are unnecessary. That being said, Dave Zimmerman told me that with the sperical/solid bushings all around out back that the quad shocks are not needed. With his experience backing that statement I am will ing to give it a shot, especially being that it will save me some cash. I have read very mixed results with quad shock removal from people with every type of stock style suspension imaginable, so we will see. Maybe I will get lucky, and maybe a new set of quad shocks will be on the way in a couple weeks.
 

90lxcoupe

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#18
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  • #18
If the solid bushings dont eliminate wheel hop the next step is to re-inforce the tq boxes
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Sep 9, 2011
#19
  • Sep 9, 2011
  • #19
Those quad shocks haven't helped axle hop in 10+ years. They are completely trashed, the bushings are dry rotted.

Torque boxes are in good shape. Although the guy welding in the sub frame connectors should go over the torque boxes while he's got it on the lift.

Guess we'll see soon if there is any axle hop present.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Sep 9, 2011
#20
  • Sep 9, 2011
  • #20
If you are putting solid spherical bushings on your uppers and are making any kind of power, I'd definitely weld those torque boxes like a mofo even if they look like they are in good shape.
 
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