How do you go about removing all the smog equipment? I cant stand the look of my pretty much stock engine bay and i want to start cleanin it out.... starting with smog...
any info?
any info?
Removing smog
- Thread starter xsivpwr
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Check out the link on my site, I did a little write up about it: http://lxsteed.stangnet.com
PM me if you have any questions
Brian
PM me if you have any questions
Brian
88POSLX
Founding Member
Do what his site says, except skip all the plug stuff. Remove the metal smog tube from your heads. It is just bolted on. You'll need two 9/16" fine thread bolts to plug the hole in the back of the heads after you remove the tube.
After you hacksaw the other tube off the exhaust, go to a muffler shop and have them torch the stubs off and weld the holes up. Cost me $20 to have a shop do it.
After you hacksaw the other tube off the exhaust, go to a muffler shop and have them torch the stubs off and weld the holes up. Cost me $20 to have a shop do it.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
When you remove the crossover tube, you can simply hacksaw off the fittings that bolt to each head; flip them over, and bolt them back on with a bit of high temp rtv to seal. The backside of the fitting will block off the air injection port.
Keep in mind that when you start disconnecting stuff that's attached to the intake and to computer system (the thermactor switches are connected to manifold vacuum and the wiring harness) you've got the potential to create vacuum leaks, and often the computer will generate error codes because it (rightly) thinks things aren't working right any longer. You may even get a check engine light - seems some do and some don't. Just want you to know that those possibilities exist.
Keep in mind that when you start disconnecting stuff that's attached to the intake and to computer system (the thermactor switches are connected to manifold vacuum and the wiring harness) you've got the potential to create vacuum leaks, and often the computer will generate error codes because it (rightly) thinks things aren't working right any longer. You may even get a check engine light - seems some do and some don't. Just want you to know that those possibilities exist.
88POSLX
Founding Member
Yeah, what Michael said 
I removed those long vacuum lines from the tree and used the plastic caps that Moroso sells to plug off the holes.
I removed those long vacuum lines from the tree and used the plastic caps that Moroso sells to plug off the holes.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
If you decide to forego sealing the holes with bolts or sawing off and reversing the fittings, the Ford part number referred to above is F4ZZ-6E086-A. You need 2, and I support rangerkills comment to find a short bolt that will thread into them as a means of screwing them in. There's not much room to work back there, and inserting a bolt into them is the best means of inserting them with the heads on the car.
Ok guys, thanks for the info here.... Im pretty sure i can handle what yer all sayin...
But another question now... There is a tube going from i think cyl number 3 up to some round thing on the back of the intake (i dont know what its called) Is there any way to get rid of all that crap?
But another question now... There is a tube going from i think cyl number 3 up to some round thing on the back of the intake (i dont know what its called) Is there any way to get rid of all that crap?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Saleen - in my opinion, the gain from removing the pump isn't worth the trouble if you've got to reinstall it annually for inspections. Furthermore, the pumps seem to have periodic problems freezing up if they're not used regularly. Nevertheless, if you insist - I'd simply leave the pump in place, and use a shorter belt (something around 84.5" should work) to bypass it. When time comes for testing, you put the longer belt back on. I don't know if the shorter belt will clear the pulley - you might have to remove the pulley from the pump. Ford Racing also makes an idler pulley that replaces the pump allowing you to use the stock length belt. That allows you to remove the pump and just fabricate some plugs for all the connections to the pump.
88STANGCONVERT
Founding Member
arbailey
Founding Member
88POSLX
Founding Member
speed1972 said:I know everyone always says 84.5" belt but why hasn't someone come up with a part number to match.. It would make going to the parts store so much easier
Because belts are pretty self explanatory. Basically, the part # would be K6845 or something very similiar to that. The 6 signifies a 6 rib belt and the 845 is pretty obvious.
88POSLX
Founding Member
07-01-03, 11:07 AM Better late than never I guess 
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