Removing window trim on Fox 'vert

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.

Founding Member

Jul 27, 2001

3,514

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109

Canton, MI

Jun 7, 2005

#1

• Jun 7, 2005

• #1

I want to sand and paint my trim pieces, but don't know how they come off. I've been known to force a few things and end up breaking them, and I do not want that to happen with these little fragile things

Anyone?

 

stang22

Active Member

Jan 29, 2003

1,318

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Washington, D.C.

Jun 7, 2005

#2

• Jun 7, 2005

• #2

Dave,

I think AutoZone sells these as well, but this will give you an idea of what it looks like.

http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pr...=2501&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=trim+tool

They are clipped in... This tool will allow you to remove the trim and the clip all in one. Not the trim, then the clip.

Tim

 

PuterAmI

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Mar 29, 2003

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Madison, Alabama

Jun 8, 2005

#3

• Jun 8, 2005

• #3

Which trim pieces?

There is no place to use the above tool. That is for the moulding that goes around the front and rear windshield of hatch/coupes.

 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.

Founding Member

Jul 27, 2001

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109

Canton, MI

Jun 8, 2005

#4

• Jun 8, 2005

• #4

The black plastic pieces that runs on top of the door from one side to the other, and the rest that are on the quarter panel and go all the way around the car, as seen in this picture:

I have no editing program where I am now to put arrows, so try to bear with me

 

stang22

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Jan 29, 2003

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Jun 8, 2005

#5

• Jun 8, 2005

• #5

PuterAmI said:

That is for the moulding that goes around the front and rear windshield of hatch/coupes.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't really think about that until this morning. Unless Dave is talking about the think metal molding around the doors/glass?

Tim

 

stang22

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Jun 8, 2005

#6

• Jun 8, 2005

• #6

Here ya go Dave... pick a number.

View attachment 512686

 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.

Founding Member

Jul 27, 2001

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Canton, MI

Jun 8, 2005

#7

• Jun 8, 2005

• #7

1 and 3

Thanks

 

NosPony

New Member

Apr 2, 2004

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Canton, Il

Jun 8, 2005

#8

• Jun 8, 2005

• #8

3-- is held on by 2 phillips screws one on each end. You will need to take off the door panel to get to them.

the other 2 sorry cant help never owned a vert. yet.

 

stang22

Active Member

Jan 29, 2003

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Washington, D.C.

Jun 8, 2005

#9

• Jun 8, 2005

• #9

3 is the belt molding. Open the door up and look just above the locking mechanism. There is a small screw, remove it and slide the belt molding back towards the trunk.

I wish I could help out with the rest of it, no clue on that part.

Tim

 

stang22

Active Member

Jan 29, 2003

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Washington, D.C.

Jun 8, 2005

#10

• Jun 8, 2005

• #10

NosPony said:

3-- is held on by 2 phillips screws one on each end. You will need to take off the door panel to get to them.

Click to expand...

I thought those were the same on the Vert's as well as the hard tops? If so, there is only one screw and you don't have to take the door panel off to get to them...

Tim

 

K

kj2833

New Member

Apr 4, 2005

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central illinois

Jun 8, 2005

#11

• Jun 8, 2005

• #11

the ones around the convertible top are bolted on from underneath. If i remember correctly you have to go inside the car and undo the bolts. you will notice the second bottom piece of the trim is a little tougher, you might even have to undo the backside of the top. I remember saying to hell with it since they were in there so far, ended up doing a real good tape job since it was getting painted. It would have taken way too long.

 

PuterAmI

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Jun 8, 2005

#12

• Jun 8, 2005

• #12

Look at the vert pics in my sig. Third page shows the rearwell moulding.

I have not done two. Three is only a single screw back at the edge of the car like a hatch/coupe. In fact, I put the coupe pieces on my vert.

#1 is a bugar. Those are called rearwell moulding. If you break these, they will cost you $150 a side. The lower moulding (rubber piece) is $50 and is riveted on. Just easily drill the rivets and rivet them back on after paint. There is (from memory) one screw that attaches at the curve down at the quarter window. You will also have 6 or so studs that go into the lip of the rearwell. These studs have nuts on the inside of the rearwell. 3/8", I think. You may have some "goo" to clean to get them that is put there to protect the sharp edge from the top. Also, back at the corner Ford had a better idea, yet kept it to themselves. There is a stud on the side, then one on the back. They face 90-degrees from each other. It is a BITC... um, bugar to get the moulding off/on because of this.

Good luck.

 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.

Founding Member

Jul 27, 2001

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109

Canton, MI

Jun 8, 2005

#13

• Jun 8, 2005

• #13

Thanks guys! On #3, Almost Stock called me up and had me look underneath at the screw, and that one is all set.

#1 looks like a pain in the ass, which figures, but I will give 'er a shot. Thanks a lot for the info, PuteramI

 

PuterAmI

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Madison, Alabama

Jun 9, 2005

#14

• Jun 9, 2005

• #14

And I checked out #2. There are two nuts on the back side of these things that take out the whole puppy. I'm not sure what to do after that.

Good luck.

 

Ordie

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Nov 23, 2004

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Key West, FL

Jun 12, 2005

#15

• Jun 12, 2005

• #15

mansonozz said:

Thanks guys! On #3, Almost Stock called me up and had me look underneath at the screw, and that one is all set.

#1 looks like a pain in the ass, which figures, but I will give 'er a shot. Thanks a lot for the info, PuteramI

Click to expand...

You pretty much have to unbolt the rear of the convertible top on on the inside to get to the bolts/nuts that hold theses molding on.

The top is tight against the trim so there really isnt a way to squeeze between the top and the body to get to them... so you have to go from the inside..

on the inside you have teh pieces that the top are stapeled too that are bolted to the body.. which need to be unbolted to get access to the nuts that hold on the trim.

I've got one of mine off.... when I get time after work I'll take a pic of what it looks like.

 

PuterAmI

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Mar 29, 2003

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Jun 12, 2005

#16

• Jun 12, 2005

• #16

Ordie said:

The top is tight against the trim so there really isnt a way to squeeze between the top and the body to get to them... so you have to go from the inside.

Click to expand...

I saw that and lowered my top halfway. I did not loosen or de-attach my top at all and was able to get to all of the studs just fine.

 

5.0 con-vert

No soup for you, Joe Rogan!!!

Jun 7, 2005

244

4

39

Boca Raton, FL

Jun 14, 2005

#17

• Jun 14, 2005

• #17

Anybody have a spare #1 for the passenger side they can spare? Not the whole way around the trunk but from the back window to the trunk. I can't find these in any junkyard around here (North Michigan). I see the occassional one on ebay but not too often. Thanks

 

PuterAmI

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Mar 29, 2003

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Madison, Alabama

Jun 14, 2005

#18

• Jun 14, 2005

• #18

Those can be had from 5.0 Resto for $150 a side. The rubber piece underneath it goes for $50 a side.

I was able to find the one I needed for the driver's side at the Corral's Classifieds when I found someone parting out their vert.

 

B

bcmbcmbcm

20+ Year Stangneter

Jan 29, 2003

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Jun 14, 2005

#19

• Jun 14, 2005

• #19

I did #1, it s$cks, I would never do it again. TAPE IT

I removed it when the my top was being replaced. Serious pain- I can't imagine doing this with the top in.. It was hard to get it tightened properly again and get the rattles out. I would never do this again. Tighten to much and you will pull in the 1/4 panels slightly. If you look the factory already probably damaged your 1/4 panels.

I strongly, strongly advise taping them unless you are going for a 100 point show car. If you take your time and tape it right it will come out fine- plenty of gaps to work with. Spend the time you save here doing something else....
just my $.02