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Replaciing water pump - Anything I need to know?

  • Thread starter Thread starter bloopbloob
  • Start date Start date Mar 15, 2007

bloopbloob

Member
Sep 27, 2006
578
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16
Alberta
Mar 15, 2007
#1
  • Mar 15, 2007
  • #1
Hey all!. I plan on doing a water pump replacemet this weekend. Any tips i should be aware of? I bought some water pump/thermostat specific sealant for the gasket for the job. but do u all have any tips? i will also be removing smog pump, a/c pump& moving p/s pump up, installing U/D pullies, and installing my 70mm TB and EGR spacer with a C&L 76mm MAF system while i'm at it. If i'm doing this work is it a good time to get at the thermostat? i want to change to a 180 but i don't even know there it is... will it be easier while i'm doing this work? i'd just like to know what i should buy before i get involved in this project....
 

TomCat

New Member
Apr 19, 2005
412
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Utah
Mar 15, 2007
#2
  • Mar 15, 2007
  • #2
Yeah, do the Tstat while your in the area. It's in the 90* bend housing at the front of the intake mani... just follow the top radiator hose back.
My only tip is to be easy on the bolts! I broke a few off back when I did it and it turned it into a real pain.
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Mar 15, 2007
#3
  • Mar 15, 2007
  • #3
Other than.. make sure the car is COLD and you have drained the coolant PRIOR to taking the old water pump off... have fun!
 

jrichker

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Mar 15, 2007
#4
  • Mar 15, 2007
  • #4
Take a cardboard box, & turn it upside down. Count the number of bolts that hold the water pump on, don’t forget to count the 4 funny looking studs too. Poke a hole in the box for each bolt/stud. Arrange the holes in a circular formation, and mark the box at the 12:00 point. When you remove a water pump bolt, put it in one of the holes in the box according to where it came out of the water pump. When you are done, all bolts will be arranged it the exact same order and position that you removed them from the water pump. That makes re-installing them easy, no wondering where does this bolt go.


A long shank tap should be used to chase the dirt & corrosion out of the original threads before you reassemble everything. Cleaning the threads will help prevent the bolts from seizing next time (yes, there will be a next time).

A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t. You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

Long shank 5/16” taps

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=267 5/16” pulley tap, 6” shank P/N 04801189 price $18.91

OR second choice, will not clean all the bottom threads unless you grind the end of the tap.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=266 extension tap, 6” reduced diameter shank P/N 04701181 $21.37

Use lots of antiseize on the bolts to protect them from corrosion and make them easier to remove next time.

See http://totallystainless.net/totally.html for replacement stainless steel bolts. Last time I checked, they didn't have the studs. Nice folks, very into cars of all types. They have all kinds of stainless fasteners for almost every car. The prices are very reasonable, less the $10 for the water pump kit without the studs.

The studs are a Motormite item available at your local Advance Discount auto Parts store.

Motormite Water Pump Stud Kits for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury cars and trucks w/3.8L, 4.6L, 5.0L, 5.8L.



Part Number: 23744
 
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