Ok here is the senario... I have a 02 Gt in the shop, (I'm a pushrod man BTW) The car had a pecking/knocking noise really bad at or about 2000RPM. Not so bad when cold but worse when hot. There was a sweet spot when driving at about 2300 RPM's that it was perfectly quite. Sittn' still with no load though 2000 RPM was a bad knock. I listened to it forever and it sounded like to me it was D/S front of the engine right directly behind the P/S resevor. I tore this car down and everything looks normal. The tensioners on both sides were fairly tight (P/S tighter Then the D/S) I took a screw driver and pressed the guide closes to the tensioner up and the tensioner followed. Holding preasure for about 15-20 seconds before it bleed off and the chain loosened back up. As it was bleeding off there was some oil dripping from it, is this normal..? Does the tensioners sound as if they are operating correctly..?Are there any more test I can run on them..? I tried to press them down by hand, no movement. I tried to pry on them a little but not to hard and they moved inward about an 1/8 inch. Is this normal..? I cant see any excessive wear on any of these things. However, the cams look like they are wearing more then any pushrod roller cam I have ever seen. And the P/S cam has wavey lines wore on some lobes insted of straight ones. The valve train looks kinda gummed up. Oh and one more thing on the tensioners and guides, The P/S has a gold oily look to it and the D/S doesn't look this way. it looks more clean like it hasn't been oiled to death. Could it be starving for oil. I can add pics tomorrow, so be looking for them around 1:00 Pm eastern time. Any input would help guys, Thanks so much. Mike.
Rod knocking.? Cam tensioner.? HELP, I have a lot of questions...
- Thread starter wotracing
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First are they stock cams? The reason I ask is some of us who have swapped cams have gotten what has been attributed to "noisy fuel injectors" after the swap for some reason. But this condition doesn't go away with RPM's and isn't too loud.
The tensioners should pump up and hold tension...if you are losing tension there could be chain noise but it would be more of a clackity sound than a knock. I'm guessing you would probably know that already.
As far as the cam wear that does sound strange but the coloration is normal. Mine was the same way when I swapped cams and it had 120K on it then. Now at 170K...
I'll point svttech to this thread and see if ha can help.
The tensioners should pump up and hold tension...if you are losing tension there could be chain noise but it would be more of a clackity sound than a knock. I'm guessing you would probably know that already.
As far as the cam wear that does sound strange but the coloration is normal. Mine was the same way when I swapped cams and it had 120K on it then. Now at 170K...
I'll point svttech to this thread and see if ha can help.
Its mos def a knock, I have heard a many of rod knocking in my day, it didn't quite sound like that man. And I swear it was so concentrated where I said the noise was. but those noises carry all over I know. Thanks for the input and turning the other guy this way to, AWESOME!! The car has been sittin for about two days, so how long should these tensioners hold preasure when I pry on them with a screw driver..? Remember, I pryed the guide up as to put temsion on the chain, then watched the tensioner, it bleed the preasure back off in about 20 seconds. It never got real loose, just looser. If this gibberish makes any sence to you, haha. Thanks again!
with out being there to see it and hear it I can not be certain but If I was you I would replace the tensioners and guides and go from there. I wish i could over better advice than this...
What's your oil pressure when fully warmed up? Does it fluxuate at all? Can you get a soundclip of the "knocking" sound?
A rod knock will be in sync with the rotation of the crank. If it is a camshaft or valvetrain related noise, it will sound twice as fast as the crank is turning.
Like svttech eluded to, it is always hard to diagnose these kinds of issues over the internet. See if you can get a good soundclip.
A rod knock will be in sync with the rotation of the crank. If it is a camshaft or valvetrain related noise, it will sound twice as fast as the crank is turning.
Like svttech eluded to, it is always hard to diagnose these kinds of issues over the internet. See if you can get a good soundclip.
Expensive guesses suck but since you already had it apart you can't listen to it at this point and it makes no sense to leave the old ones in there. You may ge lucky and it will be fixed.
If it is not make a sound clip and post it here
mod motors do not like getting low on oil AT ALL. by the description you gave it sounds as if the car has been run low on oil at one point in time (which could also be a reason for the knock). what mike said would definately be something i would try since it's apart & the description you gave with it.
also, i know it may be an obvious question, but have you checked plugs?
also, i know it may be an obvious question, but have you checked plugs?
Stangman, I left a plug loose on accident once, and started the engine and I had a customers car blow a plug out and I had to re-thread the head once, I 've heard that sound and it wasn't that. I sure wish it was though. Now correct me on this if I'm wrong, I should be able to install the tensioners and the arms without taking off the chains, right..? It looks as if they will slide right on with no problem and no removel. Oh and here's something, the customer just told me a little while ago that when he changed his oil he put some kind of ford additive in his oil that is suppost to "clean the whole system" as he stated it, and that the car didn't knock for a while, then just started back all of the sudden...? What does that bit of info tell you guys..?
what i meant by that was, have you checked to make sure that no plug gaps have been closed. to see if a piston came up & hit the bottom of a spark plug
& if i remember correctly, you should be able to install those with the chains in place
You should elaborate on the 'knock' sound, a bad bearing sounds like a hollow knock that echos off the oil pan, and in several instances around the rpm band it will go silent so it's hard to tell what it is and where it's at, every tensioner I've come across has never had a problem (from 10k-100K) miles on them
Hmmm, Yeah I know the hollow knock you are speaking of.... It didn't really sound like that if I remember correctly. Will the tensioner not providing the correct preasure really knock up hell like that though...? The noise wasn't hollow, it wasn't a peck like a lifter in a pushrod motor that needs pumped up, it was more like a clacking... I'm sure that makes no sense but its my best stab at the sound..lol..What exactly is knocking when the tensioner goes bad...? I didn't see any marks on anything as if it was slapping something. what is actually happening in there that makes this slapping noise..?
did it sound like this
http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q270/98armygt/?action=view¤t=100_0620.flv
your describing something that im having trouble with.
http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q270/98armygt/?action=view¤t=100_0620.flv
your describing something that im having trouble with.
that sound that i have i can hear everywhere. sounds like its coming from the top of the motor. i know its not valvetrain cause i have new heads, cams, lash adjusters, and followers on there. (bought an 01 motor). its coming from the front of the engine. what i noticed is that when its underload it will tap but when it starts to level off that the sound would go away. then when i let the gas go it will do it on the way down. i might have accidentally used the same tensioners when i swapped out the 98 with the 01.
if that's the case, definately take the valve covers off & check everything out & rule that out first.
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