Rolled/pulled/cutfront Fenders?

G00nies

Active Member
Nov 7, 2014
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So...After installing 1995 frond spindles, the fender is sitting on the tire :fuss:....This was unexpected.
I run 17x9 bullits with a 245/45/17 front.
The car has been lowered with Eibach lowering springs.
How do I know if Rolling will be enough (I know nothing about this procedure or how much room it will free up)?
Or if pulling is the better option?
 

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So...After installing 1995 frond spindles, the fender is sitting on the tire :fuss:....This was unexpected.
I run 17x9 bullits with a 245/45/17 front.
The car has been lowered with Eibach lowering springs.
How do I know if Rolling will be enough (I know nothing about this procedure or how much room it will free up)?
Or if pulling is the better option?

Man that's actually a lil odd to me. Do your springs have the rubber isolators on them and are clocked correctly?

I don't foresee rolling the fender will give you the type of clearance your looking for, but wont hurt to try. Be careful not to chip/damage your paint.

If all else fails, it will give you an excuse to get some coilovers (would be a nice upgrade but $$$) or a slightly taller spring, but that may not be in the budget.
 
Man that's actually a lil odd to me. Do your springs have the rubber isolators on them and are clocked correctly?

I don't foresee rolling the fender will give you the type of clearance your looking for, but wont hurt to try. Be careful not to chip/damage your paint.

If all else fails, it will give you an excuse to get some coilovers (would be a nice upgrade but $$$) or a slightly taller spring, but that may not be in the budget.

I did install the energy brand coil isolators front and rear, springs are in there right also.
Perhaps its the backspacing of these rims? either way I DONT wanna change rims or tires.
I have a friend that does this professionally and he can pull and roll the front for a total of $85.00. Ill give this a shot first
I've pretty much BLOWN PAST my alotted budget and have nothing left "in the tank" for UPGRADES, so will have to make do with what I have in order to get it driveable
 
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@G00nies
Do you have the Eibach Sportlines? Rolling your front fenders might gain you anywhere from 1/8" to 3/16" additional clearance. That will help you with up travel however your car is so low that anytime you turn the front wheels and hit a bump you'll have contact. Either a shorter/narrower tire or raising the front end up a little will cure this.

Do you have your spring isolators (top and bottom) up front?
Do you really want/like your car that low?
 
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@G00nies
Do you have the Eibach Sportlines? Rolling your front fenders might gain you anywhere from 1/8" to 3/16" additional clearance. That will help you with up travel however your car is so low that anytime you turn the front wheels and hit a bump you'll have contact. Either a shorter/narrower tire or raising the front end up a little will cure this.

Do you have your spring isolators (top and bottom) up front?
Do you really want/like your car that low?


Eibach Pro kit

Yes, I installed isolators and bushings where applicable. ENERGY brand
No , I hate this look.
I didnt expect it to be this low..it wasnt a problem until i REMOVED factory spindles and went to 1995 spindles
 
When your friend does it make sure he uses plenty of heat with a heat gun before rolling or pulling the fenders. If you have ANY damage, bondo repairs or anything going on where the rolling and/or pulling is going on then you may have problems. Your car looks pretty clean though.

Here's my car. I did not roll or pull my front fenders. I have 235/40/18 up front and have no rubbing ever. Center of fender is at 24.5" IIRC from the ground.
IMG_0964.JPG
 
Yes, that's part of it. 94-95 spindles DO push the wheels out slightly. I have pictures that show the difference of when I ran the SVO 5-lug rotors and my cobra wheels, and the Sn95 94-95 spindles, and there is a very slight push out of the front wheels that a lot of people don't realize. They don't change anything in the height aspect of the situation.

17x9's up front is going to be tough. I have 17x8 bullitts with 245/45/17 and that's a tight fit there and I'm not even lowered.
 
Figured it out....I think
Its an alignment/Camber issue. The RF tire is perfect. Ride height on both is 24.5"
Need to get it onto my alignment rack and install the camber plates.
I'm still gonna have them rolled to avoid contact when suspension travels and wheel is turned
 
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I';m gonna loosen the mount bolts for the LF position and shift it a little, just So I can drive it onto the rack. That'll give me a little more negative camber on that side.
The RF is good
 

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Will, I backed it out of the lift bay and drove it around the lot for a lap, then I heard it and parked it where it sits now.
Just wanted to test my brake continuity after the conversion.
Guess I gotta align it first:eek:
If you just went from 4 lug to 5 lug then your brakes should feel way better. Do you have disc brakes in the back too?
 
No, I went from FOX to SN95 calipers all around-rebuilt a 1997 GT axle with 4.10 gears and a new carrier also.
I had a quasi 5 lug prior (axles in the fox rear and ranger fall of 5 lug rotors up front)
This conversion I took the plunge and got the spindles up front
Still waiting on the 3-2 brake conversion line kit to complete the project. Need to install the new master/booster/prop valve.
I expected the pedal to feel "sloppy" with it being partially complete, but was curious to see exactly how soft it would be, then I stumbled onto this issue.

To answer your question, yeah, I got rid of the drum rear setup
 
I'm not even sure you can roll the front fenders. I've seen that tool used on the rears all the time, but can it be used on the fronts without just pushing them out completely?