Rolled/pulled/cutfront Fenders?

G00nies · Feb 16, 2017

here we go....FINALLY:

LF fender is the issue herem so we ruled out coilspring mis-installation, bent strut, improper spindles, wrong ball joints, damaged control arms, damaged strut mounts, the works.
Ride height is DEAD ON Right front and Left Front
So why is the fender rubbing the LEFT FRONT tire and not the right?
Swapped front wheels to stock 1995 mustang for comparison. Kept my same tire size 245/40/17
same issue...LEFT FRONT tire contacting LEFT FRONT fender
All things being equal, I must assume that the left front fender is NOT within spec and/or has been warped or damaged (although it looks fine visually).

Even with MAX NEGATIVE CAMBER, I didnt have enough to clear the Fender on the LF position. I went as far as test fitting a 1995 lower control arm with different tie rod ends for MAJOR negative camber....it was way too much and pushed the front tire OUT ALOT.

Mechanically, EVERYTHING on the front suspension is PERFECT.
I've had this thing apart and back together at least 5 times this week.WHEW

Im ordering coil overs so that I can adjust my ride height as I see fit. They will arrive next week, I'll post when they arrive

General karthief · Feb 16, 2017

Show us a pic of the hood line on both sides, do the fenders have the same gap with the hood?
I'm thinking the k member was reinstalled offset to one side.

FoxMustangLvr · Feb 16, 2017

How could it be the fender? If you everything was OK before you RR the Kmember and replaced the PS rack then the fender would have nothing to do with it unless it was damaged during the work however you'd have noticed it. Coilovers are a good upgrade however it's a bandaid over the real problem which is still undiscovered. This, ladies and gentlemen, is why I don't outsource work on my vehicles.

How about this thought. I honestly forget, are the front springs side specific on our Mustangs? I've modified other vehicles before where the driver side spring was a half inch taller to account for drivers weight, gas tank being offset to one side, etc.

General karthief · Feb 16, 2017

Never heard of that right/left spring thing but what do I know, after all, you know, boobs and all, my question is why not check the k member for squareness, squarity, ah dam, is it straight? Or maybe take it to a shop and put it on a alignment machine?

G00nies · Feb 18, 2017

FoxMustangLvr said:
How could it be the fender? If you everything was OK before you RR the Kmember and replaced the PS rack then the fender would have nothing to do with it unless it was damaged during the work however you'd have noticed it. Coilovers are a good upgrade however it's a bandaid over the real problem which is still undiscovered. This, ladies and gentlemen, is why I don't outsource work on my vehicles.

How about this thought. I honestly forget, are the front springs side specific on our Mustangs? I've modified other vehicles before where the driver side spring was a half inch taller to account for drivers weight, gas tank being offset to one side, etc.

First, I am NOT out sourcing my build, so thanks for grandstanding on my 'HELP" post.
This is my FIRST build, and Im learning as I go. I have my fox at a shop where I can work on it as I see fit, when I have time, with a tech thats my friend.
I'm glad to know that you dont outsource your builds either, so thanks for the support.
As I said earlier, the coils are fine, Eibach springs are FRONT vs REAR.

G00nies · Feb 18, 2017

karthief said:
Show us a pic of the hood line on both sides, do the fenders have the same gap with the hood?
I'm thinking the k member was reinstalled offset to one side.

Working on the hood lines pics....I do have an aftermarket cowl hood thats' been on and off several times tho

G00nies · Feb 18, 2017

karthief said:
Never heard of that right/left spring thing but what do I know, after all, you know, boobs and all, my question is why not check the k member for squareness, squarity, ah dam, is it straight? Or maybe take it to a shop and put it on a alignment machine?

Your K member theory is the going theory. I bought the car used and don't know WHAT was done to this car before.
When I have time, I plan on investigating this further, prior to the coil over install

FoxMustangLvr · Feb 18, 2017

G00nies said:
First, I am NOT out sourcing my build, so thanks for grandstanding on my 'HELP" post.
This is my FIRST build, and Im learning as I go. I have my fox at a shop where I can work on it as I see fit, when I have time, with a tech thats my friend.
I'm glad to know that you dont outsource your builds either, so thanks for the support.
As I said earlier, the coils are fine, Eibach springs are FRONT vs REAR.

I actually got info from this thread mixed up with a similar thread. Sorry.

dz01 · Mar 20, 2017

FoxMustangLvr said:
When your friend does it make sure he uses plenty of heat with a heat gun before rolling or pulling the fenders. If you have ANY damage, bondo repairs or anything going on where the rolling and/or pulling is going on then you may have problems. Your car looks pretty clean though.

Here's my car. I did not roll or pull my front fenders. I have 235/40/18 up front and have no rubbing ever. Center of fender is at 24.5" IIRC from the ground.

looks awesome! Are you running the same size in the back? How wide are your front and back rims?

G00nies · Mar 20, 2017

dz01 said:
looks awesome! Are you running the same size in the back? How wide are your front and back rims?

I have 17x9 all around currently. Upgrading the rears to 17x10 315/30/17

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 20, 2017

dz01 said:
looks awesome! Are you running the same size in the back? How wide are your front and back rims?

Front 18"x8" with 235's, rear are 18"x9" with 245's. My tire width is limited in the rear due to the IRS but I'm good with that.

dz01 · Mar 20, 2017

FoxMustangLvr said:
Front 18"x8" with 235's, rear are 18"x9" with 245's. My tire width is limited in the rear due to the IRS but I'm good with that.

I've got 18"x9" all the way around with the 235/40/18s. I shoudl be able to get 245s out back with a solid axle? Not sure if I'm going to get 8" wheels for the front or keep the 9".

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 20, 2017

dz01 said:
I've got 18"x9" all the way around with the 235/40/18s. I shoudl be able to get 245s out back with a solid axle? Not sure if I'm going to get 8" wheels for the front or keep the 9".

I think with 9" wide wheels up front you will always have some sort of rubbing while backing up and turning. 235's will help limit this but may not eliminate it completely. For me I saw no benefit for a street car to have such wide wheels up front. Rack limiters only make our car even worse for turning radius and it's already poor to begin with IMO. Depending on your offset on your rear wheels you should have no problem running a 275 tire. I had a 275 tire out back when I ran 03' Cobra replicas and had no fender rubbing issues and that was before I rolled my fender lips. I would however recommend you roll the fenders regardless.

dz01 · Mar 20, 2017

FoxMustangLvr said:
I think with 9" wide wheels up front you will always have some sort of rubbing while backing up and turning. 235's will help limit this but may not eliminate it completely. For me I saw no benefit for a street car to have such wide wheels up front. Rack limiters only make our car even worse for turning radius and it's already poor to begin with IMO. Depending on your offset on your rear wheels you should have no problem running a 275 tire. I had a 275 tire out back when I ran 03' Cobra replicas and had no fender rubbing issues and that was before I rolled my fender lips. I would however recommend you roll the fenders regardless.

My current 18x9's don't rub at all, but I think the fronts look goofy so wide. Unfortunately, the guy before me picked this setup. I've got to decide whether to sell what I have, then do 9" in the back and 8" up front. Probably would stick with the 235/40s and do something larger in the back

stpete · Mar 20, 2017

I'm not sure if I read everything right. Sounds like you said you didn't use a spacer on the ball joints. But, I'm pretty sure you need a spacer on the spindle ball joint for any SN95 spindle. The spacers you don't need for the 94-95 are on the steering ball joint. For the spindle, you can either change to the '94+ ball joints or put a spacer because they changed the taper. The '96+ spindles also push the wheels even further out than the '94-95.

Rolled/pulled/cutfront Fenders?

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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