Rolling Fenders.. questions

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
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Granada Hills, California
Okay, in my other thread I mentioned it looks like I'm going to have to roll my fenders to prevent rubbing on the top of the wheel wells with my new tires/wheels.

So....

Someone mentioned hammers/baseball bats as possible tools for doing. I'd like all the guidance I can get because I seriously don't want to mess up my fenders. Any advice you can give would be awesome.

And if, by chance, anyone knows how much a body shop might ask to do this so that I have another option... I'd appreciate it (though I'd rather just save the money and do it myself).

Thanks
 
there is actually a tool that bolts to where your wheel does that has a roller on it. it costs like $100 to buy and does a nice job of rolling the fenders. i forget where to buy it though. you can also use a body hammer and shot bag to roll the fenders, just be careful.
 
Personally I don't like the flat look of rolled wheel well lips. I used a grinder to grind my wheel well lips about half way. Keeping some of the lip, also helps to maintain some of the rigidity of the panels.

The front fenders are easy, they are a single piece of stamped steel. The rear quarter panels are a little more difficult because they are the outer quarter panel and the inner wheel well housing together. These two panels are spot welded together on the wheel well lip. You need to take care not to grind out these welds.

Tim
 
an alternative for the front, if the car i not in paint, is to basically sawzall the majority of the lip off (i left about 1/16") and stitch weld a piece of 1/8" rod around the inside of the lip, to give some strength back. grind the welds a bit, and add a shot of duraglass to keep moisture from getting behing the round stock...
 
ok... I wouldnt take a grinder or a sawzall to my car...but thats up to you. Id buy or rent (there is a guy who rents the fender roller from eastwood) and do it that way... much more professional and looks way better. Do a search for it on here...someone posted a link not to long ago about renting. Its like $50 to rent it
 
If you're still interested in using a roller, let me know. I just moved to the north bay and plan on rolling my fenders once I get settled. I am interested in renting a roller, but havent looked much for a local source.

Yeah, that might work well. I'm technically in socal right now, but i make regular trips up to berkeley (and then i'm back in berkeley at school for fall). Let me know if you find anything local. I just tried a few searches for fender-rollers but didnt' find much, I'll keep trying though. If anyone has a link handy it'd be awesome.
 
Yeah, that might work well. I'm technically in socal right now, but i make regular trips up to berkeley (and then i'm back in berkeley at school for fall). Let me know if you find anything local. I just tried a few searches for fender-rollers but didnt' find much, I'll keep trying though. If anyone has a link handy it'd be awesome.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=681487&highlight=fender+rolling+tool

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT
 
I called and checked the pricing, I had no idea it costs so much. I got an estimate of $100 a fender. So to roll both rears it would cost $200. They seem to think it would take about an hour to roll each side correctly.

All the best,
4-eyed Fox
 
I used the pie cut method on the rear inner lip of my notch(5 per each side). I was able to lay the upper lip nice and close while letting the lower sides flare to meet the molding. I then welded up the pie cuts. There were a couple of visible dimples at the top of the fender lip where the greatest roll was (outside). Needless to say the car is near paint stage. A thin skim coat of surfacer, both on the outside and inside, some dp40, a little sanding, and it's a done deal. In retrospect, I prolly would have bought the tool and kept it for posterity sake, but I'm cheap and don't mind a little body work.
 
Rent the tool! My tire just caught my driver side fender backing up the other day and pulled the lip out pretty good, about a 3" area was affected.

I very gently rolled a pipe over the inside lip egde to get back what I could then pounded it easy till it was back in place but the lip split anyways, about 2 1/2" long. This is gonna be a delicate fix now all because my brother pulled the camber in to far when we did the front end. He got hurt and couldn't finish, I'm injured and couldn't finish it so now I've got this problem.

When you use the tool take all the time you need and just use very little pressure at a time before adjusting more, do plenty of rolls back and forth and just take your time, this isn't something you want to hurry on.