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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Rolling Fenders.. questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter SadbutTrue
  • Start date Start date Jun 19, 2007
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SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jun 19, 2007
#1
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #1
Okay, in my other thread I mentioned it looks like I'm going to have to roll my fenders to prevent rubbing on the top of the wheel wells with my new tires/wheels.

So....

Someone mentioned hammers/baseball bats as possible tools for doing. I'd like all the guidance I can get because I seriously don't want to mess up my fenders. Any advice you can give would be awesome.

And if, by chance, anyone knows how much a body shop might ask to do this so that I have another option... I'd appreciate it (though I'd rather just save the money and do it myself).

Thanks
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jun 19, 2007
#2
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #2
there is actually a tool that bolts to where your wheel does that has a roller on it. it costs like $100 to buy and does a nice job of rolling the fenders. i forget where to buy it though. you can also use a body hammer and shot bag to roll the fenders, just be careful.
 

65 fastback

Founding Member
Mar 17, 2002
1,347
0
37
Northern VA
Jun 19, 2007
#3
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #3
Personally I don't like the flat look of rolled wheel well lips. I used a grinder to grind my wheel well lips about half way. Keeping some of the lip, also helps to maintain some of the rigidity of the panels.

The front fenders are easy, they are a single piece of stamped steel. The rear quarter panels are a little more difficult because they are the outer quarter panel and the inner wheel well housing together. These two panels are spot welded together on the wheel well lip. You need to take care not to grind out these welds.

Tim
 
C

chromedog

New Member
Jan 13, 2006
554
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worlds center for speed
Jun 19, 2007
#4
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #4
an alternative for the front, if the car i not in paint, is to basically sawzall the majority of the lip off (i left about 1/16") and stitch weld a piece of 1/8" rod around the inside of the lip, to give some strength back. grind the welds a bit, and add a shot of duraglass to keep moisture from getting behing the round stock...
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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Southlake, TX
Jun 19, 2007
#5
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #5
ok... I wouldnt take a grinder or a sawzall to my car...but thats up to you. Id buy or rent (there is a guy who rents the fender roller from eastwood) and do it that way... much more professional and looks way better. Do a search for it on here...someone posted a link not to long ago about renting. Its like $50 to rent it
 
6

66Runt

Member
Jun 11, 2005
680
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Jun 19, 2007
#6
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #6
.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Jun 19, 2007
#7
  • Jun 19, 2007
  • #7
you will get a cleaner and tighter roll if you "pie cut" the lip and hit it with a hammer.DO NOT CUT the lip back, the guy that painted my car did this and all it did was leave a sharp edge and no way to roll it further.
 

calpolymustang

Member
Feb 1, 2004
217
0
16
Santa Rosa, CA
Jun 20, 2007
#8
  • Jun 20, 2007
  • #8
If you're still interested in using a roller, let me know. I just moved to the north bay and plan on rolling my fenders once I get settled. I am interested in renting a roller, but havent looked much for a local source.
 
C

chromedog

New Member
Jan 13, 2006
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worlds center for speed
Jun 20, 2007
#9
  • Jun 20, 2007
  • #9
no sharp edge on my fender lips...
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jun 20, 2007
#10
  • Jun 20, 2007
  • #10
calpolymustang said:
If you're still interested in using a roller, let me know. I just moved to the north bay and plan on rolling my fenders once I get settled. I am interested in renting a roller, but havent looked much for a local source.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that might work well. I'm technically in socal right now, but i make regular trips up to berkeley (and then i'm back in berkeley at school for fall). Let me know if you find anything local. I just tried a few searches for fender-rollers but didnt' find much, I'll keep trying though. If anyone has a link handy it'd be awesome.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Danb., CT
Jun 20, 2007
#11
  • Jun 20, 2007
  • #11
SadbutTrue said:
Yeah, that might work well. I'm technically in socal right now, but i make regular trips up to berkeley (and then i'm back in berkeley at school for fall). Let me know if you find anything local. I just tried a few searches for fender-rollers but didnt' find much, I'll keep trying though. If anyone has a link handy it'd be awesome.
Click to expand...

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=681487&highlight=fender+rolling+tool

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT
 

Taranis

New Member
Nov 12, 2004
92
1
0
Austin, Texas
Jun 21, 2007
#12
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #12
http://rollyourfender.com/

I have no idea on the service of these guys, though.
 
4

4-Eyed Fox

New Member
Feb 27, 2007
8
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0
Los Angeles
Jun 21, 2007
#13
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #13
Socal fender rolling

This shop can roll your fenders.
They are in Inglewood, 5 minutes off the 405 freeway

www.haddadmotorsports.com

423 E. Florence #10
Inglewood, CA 90301

Hours of Operation Mon-Fri (10am - 6pm)
Phone: 310 412-8032
Fax: 310412-8035
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jun 21, 2007
#14
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #14
4-Eyed Fox said:
This shop can roll your fenders.
They are in Inglewood, 5 minutes off the 405 freeway

www.haddadmotorsports.com

423 E. Florence #10
Inglewood, CA 90301

Hours of Operation Mon-Fri (10am - 6pm)
Phone: 310 412-8032
Fax: 310412-8035
Click to expand...

any idea how much they'll charge? thanks
 
B

BlwnGazkit

Member
Nov 3, 2006
153
0
16
Richmond, VA
Jun 21, 2007
#15
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #15
Try a google search on building a roller yourself. Turns out lots of people make these from an old scissor jack and a skateboard wheel. Works perfectly for them and they spend like $20.
 
4

4-Eyed Fox

New Member
Feb 27, 2007
8
0
0
Los Angeles
Jun 22, 2007
#16
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #16
I called and checked the pricing, I had no idea it costs so much. I got an estimate of $100 a fender. So to roll both rears it would cost $200. They seem to think it would take about an hour to roll each side correctly.

All the best,
4-eyed Fox
 
B

BlwnGazkit

Member
Nov 3, 2006
153
0
16
Richmond, VA
Jun 22, 2007
#17
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #17
45 minutes to an hour is about right. But you can rent it for $50 plus a $275 damage deposit.

Or you could build one.
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jun 22, 2007
#18
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #18
BlwnGazkit said:
45 minutes to an hour is about right. But you can rent it for $50 plus a $275 damage deposit.

Or you could build one.
Click to expand...

rented it off ebay for 60 bucks. the guy at the website above was out of stock for the time being. should be here next week... then hopefully.. no more rubbing... wee...
 

89gt89

Member
May 28, 2005
57
0
6
Bothell, WA
Sep 23, 2007
#19
  • Sep 23, 2007
  • #19
I used the pie cut method on the rear inner lip of my notch(5 per each side). I was able to lay the upper lip nice and close while letting the lower sides flare to meet the molding. I then welded up the pie cuts. There were a couple of visible dimples at the top of the fender lip where the greatest roll was (outside). Needless to say the car is near paint stage. A thin skim coat of surfacer, both on the outside and inside, some dp40, a little sanding, and it's a done deal. In retrospect, I prolly would have bought the tool and kept it for posterity sake, but I'm cheap and don't mind a little body work.
 

JDS68Stang

New Member
Sep 3, 2007
153
1
0
New York State
Sep 23, 2007
#20
  • Sep 23, 2007
  • #20
Rent the tool! My tire just caught my driver side fender backing up the other day and pulled the lip out pretty good, about a 3" area was affected.

I very gently rolled a pipe over the inside lip egde to get back what I could then pounded it easy till it was back in place but the lip split anyways, about 2 1/2" long. This is gonna be a delicate fix now all because my brother pulled the camber in to far when we did the front end. He got hurt and couldn't finish, I'm injured and couldn't finish it so now I've got this problem.

When you use the tool take all the time you need and just use very little pressure at a time before adjusting more, do plenty of rolls back and forth and just take your time, this isn't something you want to hurry on.
 
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