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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Rolling fenders

  • Thread starter Thread starter suki243
  • Start date Start date Oct 17, 2008
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Oct 17, 2008
#1
  • Oct 17, 2008
  • #1
Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
16
London (uk)
Oct 18, 2008
#2
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #2
here's a video on when I had mines done.

<embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=f48f6174-35fa-4e64-90ee-99d4009be91c" width="428" height="352" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br/><a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/rolling-the-rear-fender_139050.htm?ref=0a2e6748-283a-4e39-8ffe-994500f560eb">rolling the rear fender</a>
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Oct 18, 2008
#3
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #3
That's pretty much how I did it, with a couple minor exceptions. I'm no bodyman, but I don't feel the dolly does much since all you're really doing is supporting the quarter panel, not working out a dent. I used my hand, since it was before I repainted my car and I didn't want to damage the paint. Also, rather than working one spot over and over, I moved along the enitre wheel lip, from end to end. It will not move all at once, but rather a bit at a time. I'll bet I made 15+ passes with a body hammer before I got it where I wanted it. Just use a fairly heavy hammer with a slight crown, hit move about an inch and repeat until you reach the end. Then start over, using medium blows and lots of patience. I also started at the center (top) of the wheelwell, since that's where the metal is most likely to move easily and I only went as far as was necessary. Since the tire didn't rub in the extreme front or back, I left them alone. As far as the paint cracking, mine didn't and I bent it nearly 90 degrees. You can use a layer of tape, but since you are hitting it with a hammer, it'll likely not do the paint any good, at least in the area your working.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Oct 18, 2008
#4
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #4
Something that will probably work better(or at least faster) than a hairdryer for making the paint more flexible is a portable space heater. It can be pointed at the fender and will heat the whole thing. Just keep a close eye on how hot the paint gets.
 
G

guybored

New Member
Apr 11, 2008
43
0
0
South Tx
Oct 18, 2008
#5
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #5
zookeeper said:
That's pretty much how I did it, with a couple minor exceptions. I'm no bodyman, but I don't feel the dolly does much since all you're really doing is supporting the quarter panel, not working out a dent. I used my hand, since it was before I repainted my car and I didn't want to damage the paint. Also, rather than working one spot over and over, I moved along the enitre wheel lip, from end to end. It will not move all at once, but rather a bit at a time. I'll bet I made 15+ passes with a body hammer before I got it where I wanted it. Just use a fairly heavy hammer with a slight crown, hit move about an inch and repeat until you reach the end. Then start over, using medium blows and lots of patience. I also started at the center (top) of the wheelwell, since that's where the metal is most likely to move easily and I only went as far as was necessary. Since the tire didn't rub in the extreme front or back, I left them alone. As far as the paint cracking, mine didn't and I bent it nearly 90 degrees. You can use a layer of tape, but since you are hitting it with a hammer, it'll likely not do the paint any good, at least in the area your working.
Click to expand...


I did the same thing, I spent about 2 weeks looking around town to see who had it (fender roller) or could do it. Never found any thing and didn't want to rent it on line because the only place I found it had a wating list of over 3 months. Couldn't use my car because it was cutting the tire. So I got fustrated and did the same thing but I used a rubber mallet I had bought a while ago. I too started in the middle and went one way then the other. I hit moved about 2" hit again all the way around. it wasn't completly rolled so I went a couple of passes on the fender. I used my hand on the fender to help the fender from moving and as support. It took me a while and the paint didn't crack, I folded the lip all the way up. It is completly folded, I am going to add bondo so dirt won't get stuck there and begin to rust haven't done it yet but will. I went to the other side and did the same thing but did it a little faster and at the end I ended up with a small crack on the paint. So if you do it any way be patient
 

hivewax

Member
Jan 1, 2006
233
0
17
Miami, FL
Oct 18, 2008
#6
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #6
i've been kind of scared to start on rolling my fender lips with a body hammer, but you all have given me some confidence in not chipping the paint. thanx
 
G

Grabber70Mach

Member
Jul 6, 2003
305
0
17
Indian Head, MD
Oct 18, 2008
#7
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #7
suki243 said:
Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243
Click to expand...

Here's some places to rent one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WIDE...m14QQhashZitem160283778800QQitemZ160283778800

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EAST...trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ220294576524
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Oct 18, 2008
#8
  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #8
Thanks for the replies. I was looking at the two ebay places as well i might go with one of them. I was also thinking of
Fender Rollers Now Available - Team Integra

I'll call them sometime this week, and see how much it is for their shipping, if its a lot i'd rather go there and pick it up myself its about 30 minutes away.

I'm too scared to use a hammer, dolly, and or a baseball bat.
 
C

chromedog

New Member
Jan 13, 2006
554
0
0
worlds center for speed
Oct 19, 2008
#9
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #9
something to think about is the cheap dead blow hammers from harbor freight... you will most likely use one up rolling your fenderlips, but they tend not to damage the paint as much as a steelfaced hammer...
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Oct 21, 2008
#10
  • Oct 21, 2008
  • #10
guybored said:
....It is completly folded, I am going to add bondo so dirt won't get stuck there and begin to rust haven't done it yet but will.
Click to expand...


DON'T BONDO IT!!! ....or you WILL get rust in there.

I'm not sure exactly what you do though, if you don't fill it, dirt will and it'll hold water. If you do fill it, you'd need something that will repell water, remain bonded to the surface, not shrink, remain flexible (ie. not harden or dry out).

Some sort of asphalt based caulk or roofing tar might work. Painting some POR15 or something like that in there might do it.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Oct 21, 2008
#11
  • Oct 21, 2008
  • #11
some basic silicone will probably work
 
G

guybored

New Member
Apr 11, 2008
43
0
0
South Tx
Oct 22, 2008
#12
  • Oct 22, 2008
  • #12
Thanks for the info 1320stang, and iskwezm. Good thing I haven't had time to finish it up. I will look into some tar or silicone. Do you guy think the one they use to finish up on the counter top work?
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Oct 22, 2008
#13
  • Oct 22, 2008
  • #13
suki243 said:
Hey guys, I need my fenders rolled. I've called a few body shops and they want 700$ to roll my fenders.
I've searched around the forums and came to the conclusion that for me the eastwood fender roller would be the best/safest bet.

The problem now is finding a place that has it/ willing to rent it out. What have you guys done? I don't want to buy a new one. and one that is local would be awesome, I'm in Southern california.

also, what would you guys suggest to keep the paint from cracking? i've heard a few methods. A. putting painters tape one strip at a time and covering the whole lip and a bit of the outside of fender. B. heating it up with a heat gun (i don't own a heat gun so would a hair dryer work? just a thought) C. cutting the paint along the edge of the lip with an exacto knife.
I might have bondo around there, but i'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your input.
suki243
Click to expand...


I've only had one fender crack on me and it was because of the bondo. We always use a heat gun to heat up the paint so it won't chip but there is always that chance something can happen.

We charge 75 a fender to roll fenders - 1 hour per fender
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Oct 23, 2008
#14
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #14
guybored said:
Thanks for the info 1320stang, and iskwezm. Good thing I haven't had time to finish it up. I will look into some tar or silicone. Do you guy think the one they use to finish up on the counter top work?
Click to expand...
yhink silicone is silicone,just make sure to clean the area so it bonds and clear or black, no white
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Oct 23, 2008
#15
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #15
just to let you know. You can pick up a Harbor Freight heat gun for $10 or so...I figure that is a cheap investment to not crack your paint.

And to top it off...my cheap HF heat gun has lasted years
 

hivewax

Member
Jan 1, 2006
233
0
17
Miami, FL
Oct 23, 2008
#16
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #16
when using a heat gun, how do you know when the paint is soft/flexible?
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Oct 23, 2008
#17
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #17
The place i'm getting the fender roller from provides a heat gun with it but thanks, i might pick one up if its only 10 bucks
 

Pooley

Member
Aug 19, 2007
60
0
6
New Orleans
Oct 23, 2008
#18
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #18
New Orleans

Hey Guys I'm in New Orleans does anyone know of a place close to me that does it?

I need to get it done really badly when I'm in the car by my self I have never had a problem but a good friend of mine came in town so there I was bragging about my old car gaining Value wile our friends with the new cars only loose value. so we go for a ride and when we made that first rt turn a very loud bad sound so I got out to see what it was and the tire had pulled the edge of the fender down ( that sucks) Well he was still impressed with the Ice cold A/C (thanks Vintage Air)!
 

valley firearms

New Member
Sep 1, 2005
63
0
0
Oct 23, 2008
#19
  • Oct 23, 2008
  • #19
I wouldn't put anything in there to fill the gap. If you do, use seam sealer, but clean it really good as mentioned earlier.
 

1965stangcoupe

New Member
Sep 7, 2006
82
0
0
Mount Vernon Washington
Dec 24, 2008
#20
  • Dec 24, 2008
  • #20
The best caulk for every job!

I work at a boat yard and this stuff is what seals eveything on a boat we repair. It is like the por-15 of caulk... Once it's on you cant get it off. This stuff is what I would use over anything. It may cost a bit more but to know there will never be water there it is worth it.
My work gets it here but it might not be the cheapest.

Fisheries Supply Search: 3m%25205200

The difference is fast dry and normal... the fast dry only comes in white but the other comes in black and some other colors. If you want other great 3m products this place has some amazing things!

I have used good bathroom caulks in all weather and it doesn't seem to hold up. It falls apart after a short amount of time. Just make sure you clean it out. For those who have not yet rolled their lips clean it first and maybe try putting a small bead of it in the corner first so that it squeezes out as you roll the lip. just an idea. Not sure if the heat would make it runny or not though.
 
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