Runnin' Hot!!!!

I have a 1967 Mustang with a bored out 289. The people I purchased it from had no idea how large the bore was. The car runs great in cool/cold weather. In stop and go traffic, primarily in the summer, it doesn't take any time at all for the temperature to rise beyond 220 degrees. I currently am using a 195 degree thermostat. Any suggestions that won't require large amounts of cash?
 
WORTH said:
A coolant blockage is usually a high speed problem, if it's only giving him trouble at low speed it should be an air flow problem.


Could be, just going by my own experiences with NO cooling problems in stop and go without a shroud BUT with a new radiator and flush.
 
Ozsum2 said:
Could be, just going by my own experiences with NO cooling problems in stop and go without a shroud BUT with a new radiator and flush.

Not everyone needs a shrowd, my 70 ragtop with the windsor doesnt have a shrowd and has no problems, my 69 coupe with a stock 302 4V, I had to add a shrowd because it ran hot at idle.
 
WORTH said:
Not everyone needs a shrowd, my 70 ragtop with the windsor doesnt have a shrowd and has no problems, my 69 coupe with a stock 302 4V, I had to add a shrowd because it ran hot at idle.


Yea, his bore/cam may be contributing to the overheating. I just like to start with the simple things to check before going forward.
 
horseycar said:
The fan shrowd that I had on was broken, so I replaced that. Also the fan itself was a racing fan that seemed to move very little air, so I replaced it as well. I will try a radiator flush, any thing else?


B4 doing a flush, see if you need one. Pull the radiator cap, run the engine to operation temp, and see if you have good circulation. If the coolant level is low, it is going somwhere, right, like head gasket blown.
 
I had a 66 289 overheat problem

I started like you, by the time I replaced head gaskets 4 times, I am replacing the engine. Mine was bored 60 over.

DON'T follow my pattern. What happenned was that after I overheated the engine enough times I warped the block. Had I resolved my problems sooner, I wouldn't be replacing the engine.

Here is what I did.
1) Run a 3 core radiator, and a shroud. Run mostly water with water-wetter and pump lubricant. Don't run anti-freeze unless you have to.

2) make sure you don't have a head gasket problem, and if you do get it fixed, and make sure they check your block and plane the heads before you put it back together.

Other people gave me a list of other things to check, and I'll list them here. They could be the problem, but are low occurring events imho.

no thermostat - You need one in to slow the water flow so that it has time to absorb heat.
no spring in lower radiator hose - pump collapses the hose when pulling lots of water.
clogged radiator - obvious you cant cool what wont circulate.
clogged block - same as above.
water pump worn out - SURELY you already checked this.
temp gauge off - I think your in denial, but it could happen.
 
My 289 bored 60 over runs between 180-195 when it's nearly 100 degrees outside in stop and go traffic.

I have over 300 hp so it should run even hotter than if the car was stock, don't know if yours is or not.

Anyway, I have a 4 core radiator (66), 3 core should be fine for 67 b/c they're wider.

I also have a fan shroud and a high flow water pump that's supposed to flow more water at idle to help keep the car kool.

The radiator flush should definately help, when I first got my car it was clogged and the car would always get over 200 degrees, and that's w/ a stock lower horsepower setup. After the flush I could barely get the car up to 160 degrees, and I was using a 180 degree thermostat.