Running hot after putting on electric fan..

Are you running an aftermarket water temp gauge or are the readings coming from the stock temp gauge? Stock temp gauge is known to be somewhat "unreliable".

DCC's can be tricky, at least from my experience. When is the car running hot? Idle? Highway? Stop and go? Also, what temp t-stat are you running? What temp is the DCC set to? Many questions here. I just bought a new DCC and spent the extra $$$ for the indicator light and temp adjuster for inside the car, no more jumpers to toy around with and I know how much output from the DCC that the fan is receiving. So far, everything has been working perfect.

try killing the car then turning it back on. If that solves it the thermostat is probably sticking.

is it just when u first warm it up cuz i have a 180 thermostart and it will first go to 200 then wants the coolant hits the air it drops down to say 170 (thermostat starts to close a little) then it starts to heat up again and does this cycle maybe 2 or 3 times. I only noticed this in the winter but i wouldnt worry if it was only in the beginning. if in doubt change the thermostat.

Thats normal temps if your running 180 t-stat. I went from 160 to 180 and I noticeda big difference. So your running fine.

MustangMulch,

My under hood temps get pretty high in summer with AC on. The 35A DCC would go into thermal protection mode and turn-off when it got too hot. I changed to a 60A unit and it works fine now. The 60A unit has less self heating due to I^2R.

One other thing is to look into if you have hot air re-circulating from the engine compartment from the space over the radiator and under or sides of the radiator. Is the air damn in place under the radiator?

Don

Unless you have an issue like a bad or weak headgasket, I could never imagine the car jumping to over 200* in a minute. Even in the summer with my mods, it still takes a few before I'm up to operating temp. And I doubt my head gasket theory is correct either because you'd probably be having plenty of other issues. I had problem's with my stock gauge, it would climb REAL high. 200* is really not a concern, the car can handle a bit more than that. Is your coolant overflowing? That is a damn good sign of overheating. If this started immediately after installing the DCC, check your setup first. I forgot which pins they were, but there is a note in the instruction sheet NOT to jump certain pins as it will damage the unit. Maybe if Baskin sees this he can clarify my statement? I would also once again advise you to get the indicator light that tells you how much power output is going to the fan (the more output, the faster the fan spins ) so you know what the fan is doing at these high temps. Is it even turning on? Is it running at full power? Also get the remote temp adjuster for inside the car, it really saves you the grief of contantly messing with the jumpers under the hood to find your preferred temp setting, especially if you're having issues. I would also recommend a 180* t-stat, the DCC is designed to work with one. By the way, what temp do you have the DCC set for?

what temp probe do you have, and where is it mounted? if you have the radiator probe, try putting it in another spot. move it up or down or something. the little LED that he offers is nice to have so you know what speed your fan is running.

Any status on this one? Just curious.

I agree, 20 degrees in one minute is a pretty high rate of change, I would definitely say that if it is rising that fast, then the thermostat is still closed at that point. What thermostat do you have installed ? If it’s a 195, you’re going to have a tough time keeping the motor at 180. 11/12 are the jumpers to be avoided, they’re connected to ign and ground respectively

The DCC depends on a 12 degree rise through the engine and if the thermostat is slowing the coolant flow, it will be off by the ratio of full flow vs the thermostat restricted flow. In other words, if the thermostat is limiting the flow to 50% of normal, the temp will be off by 12 degrees. The fact that the dcc monitors the engine inlet temperature in lieu of the outlet temperature is what makes it a little trickier to set up, but it’s the correct way to do it. I’ve had a few customers monitor the engine output in lieu of the input and this makes for a system that’s easy to set up, but one of the main benefits, the fan not running at highway speed, is traded off. The hysteresis mentioned is also true, I’ve seen it on customers data logs. The constantly spinning mechanical fan tends to stabilize the thermostat to some degree.

There are a couple of options. One is that you can use the u/d option to simulate the airflow of the stock fan below the thermostat temperature, the other, and a better method would be to go to a 180 degree thermostat.

The most common error in installation is mounting the probe from the front of the radiator, those fins tend to be off by about 20 degrees. A second issue is caused by the fact that the fin density varies from one radiator to another, so the probe doesn’t always fit perfectly. One of my customers figured this out and found that using a small pair of needle nose pliiers to form the fins around the probe solved the problem

The third most likely, but probably doesn’t apply in your case, is a bad chassis ground. The temp sending unit is referenced to the engine block, while the gauge is referenced to the chassis, so any difference shows up on the gauge. A good test for this is to let the temp stabilize with all of the accessories off. Turn the lights and everything else on and watch the gauge over the next 10 seconds. If it moves, there’s a problem.

Fourth, the lower tubes on a cross-flow are the first to clog, if there’s no water flow, the fin temperature will be off by a large amount.

Finally, on a high power fan, if the sensor is too close to the fan blade, the heat is pulled down the tube away from the sensor, so the corners, rather than the middle of the radiator are optimum.

I did not sift back through all this again, but are you sure your gauge is accurate? Is the motor hot to the touch when the gauge first reads that hot (be careful and all that).

I have gone out to a cold motor (sitting overnight) and removed the rad cap. Toss a turkey thermometer in the rad orifice and watch temps as the car idles. As the stat opens, you will see coolant move from pass to driver side. And note if the turkey thermometer matches the gauge you are using.

NOTE: dont ever use that thermometer for cooking or anything involving animal consumption. Thermos like that are 1 buck at wally mart.

Good luck bud.