Running no belt at track???

NotoriousGT350 · Aug 18, 2004

Don't know what happened to my earlier thread on the same topic, but here I go again. Can it be done? Are there any major problems in doing this besides cooling and charging? What are some improvements on times if doing this?

Just curious b/c I've read in some threads of people making a couple of passes w/o the belt.

I plan on racing at the track soon, and maybe go up against a certain SRT-4 here that now has a Stage 2 kit and other goodies. Doesn't know what it runs now.Stock here, he ran a 14.4 compared to my 14.8. I would definately borrow my friends Weld wheels(15x3, 15x8) with his M/T ET streets, ice the intake for 1-2hrs, put some good gas, maybe bump the timing if someone has a timing light, need to remove my air silencer.

If it's going to be a major problem in running w/o a belt, I will not do it. Just need some opinions. Thanks.

J.R.

what_stanger? · Aug 18, 2004

i've ran with shortbelts at the track, but i've never done it without a belt at all.

NotoriousGT350 · Aug 18, 2004

I wouldn't mine running with a short belt either. I would love to have one that would bypass the smog, A/C, and P/S. Any suggestions on size?

Any other opinions on running no belt for a couple of passes?

Just to reply to questions like, "What do you have underneath the hood?" ...I would say "All stock 225 horses still there."

25thmustang · Aug 18, 2004

Its hard with no belt. With a fuel injected car its hard on it not running the alternator (as it will drain the battery quick). You would not be able to let the car idle for more than a minute or so, and would probably have to put the belt back on at the end of the track. My dad set his up to run the alternator, but he has a cut off switch that kills power to it. This netted about 3-5 hp to the tires on the dyno. Its not the belt that causes the loss, its the drag from the alternator. This might be an alternative for what you want...

As far as that SRT your going to need a bit more than tires, no belt and some ice. If he ran 14.4 before Id say he is very solid 13s now, and with your 14.8 your going to need to take a second or more off your time. Its possible, but might be tough with the few things your doing!

Gearbanger 101 · Aug 18, 2004

Go the short belt route. Here a a couple of diagrams and belt lengths.....

cmozez · Aug 18, 2004

Thats something that I haven't seen mentioned here, killing the alternator. Go to bassass racing tech tips and it explains how to do it. Really all you are doing is not allowing it to excite the field, in doing this, there will be no drag or charge coming from it. A really cheap way to free up some HP.

25thmustang · Aug 18, 2004

Those short belts look too complicated, lol...

Mine runs from the crank, up around the alternator, and then back down across the water pump. I bypass the Power steering (I dont have smog or AC anymore) and although I dont have any actualy proof of gains, it sure doesnt hurt!

04sleeper · Aug 18, 2004

You can run no belt but you will want to push your car up to the starting line and then put it back on as soon as you get off the track. Then let it run for a little bit to run the water through and charge your alternator. I would just run a short belt for the first couple of passes and wait until your last pass to do it.

NotoriousGT350 · Aug 18, 2004

Great pics and suggestions. I'll look into getting a short belt, but I doubt I'll get any pulleys. Thanks for the opinions!

J.R.

90mustangGT · Aug 19, 2004

I don't think this is going to work too well in a EFI car where voltage is required to run solonoids, pumps, and sensors. On a carbed car voltage output might reduce spark energy but that's about it. There is also the issue of cooling, and your engine will get hot real fast, unless you start out with a cold engine.

An electric waterpump and a 14V battery would keep the electronics and your cooling system happy.

I have ran that short belt configuration before when I had all accesories and it droped my 1/8th times almost .2. I did an A/C delete so I run that configuration all the time, but with P/S in the A/C spot. I plan on an electric W/P and P/S delete so all I will run is the alternator.

one bad notch · Aug 19, 2004

no good ,a computer controlled car`s ecm needs to see 13.5 volts,otherwise will not run correctly,tryed it a long time ago,not worth the headache after,will get real hot 1/2 gal of coolant comes out of the overflow,and its so damb hot you cant put the belt back on.use the small belt.

Running no belt at track???

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