Suspension Self Alignments

[Mustang5L5]

With Sn95 steering rack wrapping up, I need an alignment. Problem is I don't really trust anyone local to hand my keys over, and I plan on changing things up in the future that I don't want to run out and pay for an alignment each and every time, only to drive the car 100 miles or so before I rip it apart again to change something.

When I did my Sn95 spindle swap years ago, I got it pretty damn close with just a rope, tape measure and some levels. Certainly didn't tear up the tires in the 500 or so miles I've driven since then.

I want to change up my springs at some point, add some CC plates, and debating swapping to a MM k-member in the future, so I'd rather invest in the proper equipment to do the alignment myself. I've seen guys on CC and such performing their own with great success, so I know it can be done, Wondering if anyone here is doing this.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Good article with info on specs. Guess I just need to purchase proper tools

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/m5lp-0207-front-end-alignments/

 

[Mustang5L5]

OK. This is what I settled on trying out.

Toe
Amazon product ASIN B000VAOHB2View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VAOHB2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QYB3DHNWY8C4


Caster/Camber
Amazon product ASIN B00PKI0WXMView: https://www.amazon.com/Tenhulzen-Camber-Caster-Degrees-Accuracy/dp/B00PKI0WXM/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1490026807&sr=8-19-spons&keywords=wheel+alignment+tool&psc=1



I know the caster/camber tool is a bit pricey, but I liked that particular model because it seems a bit more automated vs the $30 magnetic tool. But I like the idea of playing around with a few different setups and making changes on my own rather than settling for standard factory specs.


Guess I didn't need a thread

 

[Noobz347]

@madmike1157 I think, did it with some common measuring tools and home-made jig?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yeah, I ended up cancelling the toe-in plates as I could easily build a jig with what I have sitting around the house. Pretty simple for that.

I'll build something like this

I also realize I could build something for camber/caster....but I kinda like that setup...and it already shipped.

 

[JD1964]

I'm following this thread. Now that I have a pretty flat garage slab, I've been thinking about trying some alignment checks and possible adjustments myself.

 

[5.0Droptop]

Stop being so cheap.
Its on SALE!

http://equiptool.com/i-6534853-used...Network&utm_medium=PPC&utm_content=Picture+Ad

 

[Blandnuts]

I actually have the same toe kit you canceled with the longacre caster/camber setup. It seems like the prices have gone up over the years.

 

[RangerJoe]

I got mine real close back in the day. I can't remember everything I did, but I used a plastic level that I drilled and tapped the plastic frame for rounded top lag screws. I had the screws seat against the edge of the rim and used the screws to get the level, level, up and down. Then used an angle finder. Also used the string method for toe, and again used the angle finder for camber.

Worked fairly well.

Joe

 

[RaggedGT]

I used a Hunter alignment rack to set mine back in the day- easy peasey

 

[Mustang5L5]

So I made some crap.

Turn plates were $100 or so, so I bought some .70 cent tiles, slapped some grease between the two, and will use that as turn plates. $4.

Then, I bought a 1"x3"x8' and used some shelf brackets I had lying around. Made up one side to but up against wheel like this

Then I started measuring out 1" increments on the other side, then broke that up into 1/8" increments.

Then I realized I really didn't need to. I figure I just mark the stick with two different color pieces of electrical tape, and measure the distance. If I'm off 1/2", that means I need to turn in 1/4". Since one full turn is 1/16", that's 2 turns each side to come in. Then...remeasure. Easy.

Total cost. $4 for tiles, $8 for the board. Brackets I already had.


Still got the $200 caster/camber setup in the mail.


I also got something else in the mail...

 

[General karthief]

Ok, do I have to get a tow chain to drag it out of you or do I leave that page blank in my book about mustang5L5's life and time trials?

 

[Noobz347]

Ok, do I have to get a tow chain to drag it out of you or do I leave that page blank in my book about mustang5L5's life and time trials?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, do I have to get a tow chain to drag it out of you or do I leave that page blank in my book about mustang5L5's life and time trials?

Gotta wait. Friday night. And no, I didn't buy another set of wheels....

 

[General karthief]

Hint? Gotta write something down for the publisher.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Meh,.....It's always been painfully easy w/ a string, a tape measure and two 24" framing squares.

And one additional evil assistant.

The strings are pulled taut from front to back parallel to the body to get a "forward direction" established.

The steering wheel gets centered, and the tires adjusted using the string as a reference measuring the front, and back of the tire as compared to their distance from the string.

Then,...Once a straight ahead posture is established,..One guy sits on one side w/ the edge of a framing square pressed against the tire sidewall, and the evil assistant sits on the other side doing the same thing.
A tape measurement is taken of the front leading edge of the framing square, and then compared to the measurement taken at the rear trailing edge of the framing square.

For instance... Front measurement 57.5 rear measurement 57.75. There is a difference of 1/4."

The tires are "toed in" 1/4 of an inch.

That means I'm backing the tie rods out enough to make the tires push out in front. I want to end w/ 1/8" toe in.

It takes only a couple of threads to back the front of the tires out 1/16,...because the rear of the tires are pulling in 1/16 at the same time.

The re-measurement equates to 57.562 F, 57.687 R difference being .125.

Good enough to get it going forward.

I measure how far it is from the center of the wheel center cap to a reference point at the bottom of the fender lip when the car is sitting at ride height.

Then jack the car up,..remove the tire, then jack the LCA up until the center of the spindle gets to the measurement I took while the car was sitting at ride height. Then I put a magnetic torpedo level on the rotor hat, loosen the CC plate, and shove the thing fully to the rear, and pull it out laterally until I get the level to zero bubble.

Now the tire is straight up and down at ride height.

I lock that down,...and the car is close enough to get it to a front end shop. In my case it was close enough to only need a tiny toe adjustment.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I did similar to that when installing the sm95 spindles years back using string running down sides if car. guess there is more than one way to skin a cat

 

[General karthief]

Don't tell that to jinx, he has a thing with cats.

 

[MFE92]

One full turn may be 1/16th at the tie rod, but because the edge of the wheel are further from the steering axis than the tie rod is, and because adjusting the toe rod moves both front and back edges of the wheel in opposite directions, that 1/16 projects out to a lot more actual toe adjustment than you get at the tie rod itself. I've never tracked the total change but I would expect the actual toe change to be 3-4x the distance of the tie rod adjustment.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Noted. Thanks for pointing that out.