Self Tuning Sanity Check! Tweecer RT

[BoostedSN95]

hey guys I just got my tweecer and will be soon be developing a strategy to do some basic tuning. Before I do this I want to make sure all of my system is in good shape.

My tps is reading around 1.05 V at idle with the TB closed. The stop screw is NOT to far open, it is barely opened. Is this way passed the acceptable range? I know people say the lower the better, mine is higher than I owuld expect.


Also, my ACT according to the tweecer was bouncing around, suspect this should not be bouncing around? Never seen a log of an act (before mine) so I wanted some input. Basically at idle it is somewhat steady then will sometimes have spikes indicating negative temperature values.

I will be setting my timing back to 10 degrees. It is 12 now. (how important is this)?

And I believe my fuel psi should be at around 39 or so with the vac line out. And 35 with it on?


One I get this tid bits done, I will be doing some real tweecing. Thanks!

 

[Stanger007]

My tps is reading around 1.05 V at idle with the TB closed. The stop screw is NOT to far open, it is barely opened. Is this way passed the acceptable range? I know people say the lower the better, mine is higher than I owuld expect.

On the Fox cars the idea was to adjust the TPS voltage to be close to 1.00v but just under it - .96-.99 for example.

On the SN EECs, the computer will establish a baseline for the TPS when you start the car so long as the TPS is within a certain tolerance. (Anyone know the upper limits of adjustment?).

If you datalog the throttle position you will see there is a place that shows the throttle closed - notice how even though your tps says 1.05v it will be marked as closed... this is the auto calibrating feature in action.

Also, my ACT according to the tweecer was bouncing around, suspect this should not be bouncing around? Never seen a log of an act (before mine) so I wanted some input. Basically at idle it is somewhat steady then will sometimes have spikes indicating negative temperature values.

This is definitely not normal. You will see steady fluctuations in the ACT as you change speeds and the engine warms up but you'll never see any negative #s unless you drive your car into a frozen river.

If your wiring to the ACT looks good, try cleaning the J3 port on the EEC - link to a tutorial here.

I will be setting my timing back to 10 degrees. It is 12 now. (how important is this)?

This is critical. You no longer have to twist the dizzy to get timing advance with the twEECer. You can now control when and how much timing you have from inside the car.

And I believe my fuel psi should be at around 39 or so with the vac line out. And 35 with it on?

39 w/ vaccum off is the stock setting, yes.

One I get this tid bits done, I will be doing some real tweecing. Thanks!

Congrats dude and welcome to the self tuning world! Do you have a wideband? What are the specs on the car you are tuning?

Here's a few good resources to check out:

• eectuning.org
• eec-tuning.org
• Log Analyst
• EEC Analyzer

Take it easy and good luck,
Wes

 

[BoostedSN95]

Hey Wes thanks for the info, I have updated my signature, I am not boosted any more, My turbo has been long gone.

I was considering getting a wide band but I am not certain if I NEED it right now with the car being N/A. I remember thinking that wide bands were only necessary for forced induction, do you know?

Another quick question, will there really be a difference after I swap in the proM 30 calibration for the MAF transfer function, and make the changes in the injector slopes? The ProM calbration is in the tweecer files, and appears to be the same for everyone. (before its tweeced)

Right now, I suspect that my MAF sending a lower voltage for a given air flow, the computer thinks I have 19lbers, thus fuel is reduced accordingly. This will allow the 30lbers to work correctly.(in a nut shell)

So what does the swapping of tranfer functions actually change in the system if the system basically runs now, thanks.:SNSign:

 

[airmail96]

personally, I don't think a wide band would be necessary, but i do think that it would def. help with fine tuning your air/fuel ratios.

 

[Stanger007]

The wideband is critical to tuning WOT - without it you are just making educated guesses... educated but guesses nonetheless. I'd recommend one if you are serious about the performance of your car. The Innovate LC-1 is on eBay all day for around $199. It's a small price to pay considering the benefits and how much it will reduce head scratching.

Plus if you have a wideband sensor I think that puts you into the next level of automotive eliteness... all my friends with import cars have them so there must be some ubercool reason to have one.

At part throttle you can tune pretty well by just observing the stock O2s.

The MAF's reading is what our EECs really live or die on - anything you can do to improve the accuracy of your MAF transfer will help the overall tune of the car. You won't be tuning around problems w/ the MAF transfer if you get it nailed dead on from the get-go.

Someone with experience working with the ProM meters can chime in and give you more details on their experience with tuning them.

Wes

 

[final5-0]

About using a W B with a N A combo

On this forum alone ..........
MANY different peeps have addressed their use

Yes ... Like Mr. Wes said even NA peeps got em

Tweecer self tuning is a whole lot like .......... The X-Files
The Answer Is Out There

Tweecer Tuning has never been more easier to learn than it is to this day
simply because
The info is so readily available
but
You do have to put in the time to teach yourself.

You Gotta Gather up the .......... Answers

Grady

 

[BoostedSN95]

Thanks for the info guys, I just put new tail pipes on my car and will be fixing a major exhaust leak tomorrow. After that I will be checking my O2 sensor, and most likely purchasing a wide band O2 sensor.

I guess that means I need a new gauge too.


Thanks :SNSign:

 

[blksn955.o]

I have been searching on tps stuff alittle more (a topic on another board got me looking) and the max for even the 94-95's is still less than 1v. IIRC somplace from .85-.95 works well.

Yeah....get a W/B.

 

[BoostedSN95]

I have been searching on tps stuff alittle more (a topic on another board got me looking) and the max for even the 94-95's is still less than 1v. IIRC somplace from .85-.95 works well.

Yeah....get a W/B.

So are you saying we do not have a auto calibration feature? My tweecer say that the throttle is closed when the voltage is at 1.05. IMO, I do not believe .1 V to be crucial on an other wise working TPS System.

 

[Stanger007]

My TPS happens to read 1.05 exactly at idle as well.

I was going to change it but after noticing that the EEC reported the throttle as closed when it was (despite the 1.05v), I left it alone.

Wes

 

[blksn955.o]

It resets yes, just that the target is still under 1v. Also in the schema of things...tps is not that important esp over things like MAF transfer/slopes/offsets