Ha! I know, I've definitely been slacking on getting stuff done on the car and updating this thread. My Lemons race is this week/weekend so I'm hoping to get back to the car on a more regular basis after this is all done (you know, in between the house work and job crap).
Driver's side reinforcements are all done, so I'll get some pics up of that in the next week or so. I'm moving on to the torque box reinforcements and now, hard mounting the IRS subframe to the front torque boxes so the entire unit will be hard mounted to the car. I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to do this yet, so any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.
Haven't had a ton of time to work on the car with my job and house projects taking most of my time over the last couple months, but I have been making some forward progress. All the subframe re-enforcements, torque box re-enforcements, and floor pan stitch welding is completed. Should be able to start on the cage work within the next month or two and get that completed over the winter. I'll get some pics up of the progress in a day or two.
In the meantime, made a couple more purchases for the car. One of those "spur of the moment" purchases was ordering a 2018 OEM Coyote Intake to replace the OEM 2011 intake I currently have. I had read some really positive reviews on gains made with this intake (like, 40rwhp+ with just the intake swap). I was planning on getting the Boss intake since I'm going boosted, but you can pick up this 2018 OEM intake for less than $300 shipped right now. For that price, I figure what the heck, might as well try it before they jack the price up. For those that don't know, these intakes come with IMRC that must be locked out on a Gen 1 coyote setup since there are no provisions in the wiring harness or ECU for controlling the IMRC. Some people buy the lock out kits, but it's just as easy and cheaper to fabricate a lock out on your own (imo).
I haven't seen any good side by side comparisons of the 2018 intake to a Gen 1 intake (just dyno proof), so here are some pics I took of the two intakes and their differences. I took some measurements of the throttle body, intake running size, and port sizes to show some of the differences. Just from looking at the intake and comparing, you can see this intake should flow more air. I want to flow test each intake to see where the gains are, but haven't got around to that yet.
An overhead and side shot to show the differences in the throttle body inlet angle and dimensions
Throttle Body opening comparision. 2018 intake shows 86MM and the 2011 intake shows 83MM
Intake port width comparision. 2018 intake shows 33.5MM and the 2011 intake shows 32.3MM
Intake port length comparision. 2018 intake shows 58.2MM and the 2011 intake shows 56.4MM
Intake runner width comparision. 2018 intake shows ~1 7/8" and the 2011 intake shows ~1 1/2"
In the meantime, made a couple more purchases for the car. One of those "spur of the moment" purchases was ordering a 2018 OEM Coyote Intake to replace the OEM 2011 intake I currently have. I had read some really positive reviews on gains made with this intake (like, 40rwhp+ with just the intake swap). I was planning on getting the Boss intake since I'm going boosted, but you can pick up this 2018 OEM intake for less than $300 shipped right now. For that price, I figure what the heck, might as well try it before they jack the price up. For those that don't know, these intakes come with IMRC that must be locked out on a Gen 1 coyote setup since there are no provisions in the wiring harness or ECU for controlling the IMRC. Some people buy the lock out kits, but it's just as easy and cheaper to fabricate a lock out on your own (imo).
I haven't seen any good side by side comparisons of the 2018 intake to a Gen 1 intake (just dyno proof), so here are some pics I took of the two intakes and their differences. I took some measurements of the throttle body, intake running size, and port sizes to show some of the differences. Just from looking at the intake and comparing, you can see this intake should flow more air. I want to flow test each intake to see where the gains are, but haven't got around to that yet.
An overhead and side shot to show the differences in the throttle body inlet angle and dimensions
Throttle Body opening comparision. 2018 intake shows 86MM and the 2011 intake shows 83MM
Intake port width comparision. 2018 intake shows 33.5MM and the 2011 intake shows 32.3MM
Intake port length comparision. 2018 intake shows 58.2MM and the 2011 intake shows 56.4MM
Intake runner width comparision. 2018 intake shows ~1 7/8" and the 2011 intake shows ~1 1/2"
Overall height comparision. 2018 intake is ~1/8" taller than the 2011 intake (overall, as you'll see in the remaining pictures, the intake runner mounting height is different between the 2018 and 2011)
Front of intakes. 2018 on left, 2018 on right.
Back of intakes, showing the where the IMRC stuff would be mounted (I removed it all already, no lock outs installed yet)
Front of intakes showing the intake runner mounting height difference
Bottom of intakes. The 2018 has significantly more ribbing, which hopefully means it holds up to boost that much better....
Front of intakes. 2018 on left, 2018 on right.
Back of intakes, showing the where the IMRC stuff would be mounted (I removed it all already, no lock outs installed yet)
Front of intakes showing the intake runner mounting height difference
Bottom of intakes. The 2018 has significantly more ribbing, which hopefully means it holds up to boost that much better....
From what I've read, these intakes flow more air, especially in the upper RPM. The stock 2011-2014 intake starts to fall off after 6700 RPM while the 2018 intake starts to fall off closer to 7300 RPM. From the dyno graph's I've seen, you aren't loosing anything below 5500 RPM and gaining everything above that. I've read of gains anywhere from 30rwhp to 60rwhp from just the intake swap. With the IMRC, they were able to increase the volume of the plenum and intake runners while maintaining low RPM drivability and emissions. Combine better flow, better air flow velocity control with the IMRC, direct injection, and everything else the coyote already has to offer, and I'm seeing why these 2018+ motors are making the power they do.
On my car, I will be locking out the IMRC so I won't see those benefits, but since I'm going boosted I'm not worried about losing much down low, if any. This intake fits my RPM goal of a 7800-8000 RPM redline also. Intake should work especially well with boost, imo. Can't beat the price right now either.
Yeah, like 3000 PSI rail pressure.
Still lower than the 27,000+ PSI I see on my 6.7 occasionally.....
So here are the final through floor subframe, matrix bracing, and torque box reinforcement pics. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out. Now onto the back half of the car and the cage.
Intake runner control module Or
Indian and muslim relief charities
Google can be soooooo confusing
Indian and muslim relief charities
Google can be soooooo confusing
I can definitely say I notice a "little" difference. Chassis doesn't seem to flex at all with what I can do to it with no weight in it right now.
@General karthief got it (no, not the indian Muslim thing). I'm not an IMRC expert, but in short, this is how I've seen and understand how they are used.
In the Mustang, they are basically flaps inside the intake which help to control and optimize air flow and pulse timing at lower RPM's (below 3000). The flaps are out of the way in the higher RPM's so the intake see's no restrictions from the flaps above a certain RPM.
IMRC's work differently in differently in different engines. Some have different length intake runners for each cylinder that the IMRC's control airflow through, others control the air flow through a "variable" plenum that Mimics different length intake runners throughout the RPM range, but the overall effect is the same. Mimic a long intake runner at low RPM for higher port velocity and optimal pulse timing and mimic a shorter intake runner at higher RPMS.
Been slowly getting the back half of the car stitch welded. Got all the seam sealer in the rear removed and the stitch welding completed on either side of the rear passenger/wheel well area. What a PITA.
It still amazes me how loose the tolerances are in these foxbodies. I've torn into quite a few SN95's and they were definitely built with much tighter tolerances and better quality control. One example out of many, in the picture below, you can see where the body panel on one side it flush with another, while the drivers side is almost 3/4" lower. I didn't plan on stitch welding as much in the backhalf as I did, but I've been finding some panels barely connected with a single spot weld and want to solidify those.
It still amazes me how loose the tolerances are in these foxbodies. I've torn into quite a few SN95's and they were definitely built with much tighter tolerances and better quality control. One example out of many, in the picture below, you can see where the body panel on one side it flush with another, while the drivers side is almost 3/4" lower. I didn't plan on stitch welding as much in the backhalf as I did, but I've been finding some panels barely connected with a single spot weld and want to solidify those.
Started to clean up the bottom half of the car also. Going to be removing the upper control arm mounts and any other hardware and body parts that aren't needed with the IRS. Removing the upper control arm mounts should give me more room to work on the IRS while it's in the vehicle. The upper control arm mounts are a pain to remove. I'll probably go through 4 spot weld cutting bits just getting those guys off. The pinion snubber and brake hose mount were easy.
So has anybody ever installed front strut reinforcement plates from a company called "Izzy's Custom Cages"? I just received these plates yesterday as I didn't feel like fabricating these pieces from scratch. I only looked at them for 10 minutes or so but am questioning if these will fit properly. I know they said there might be some trimming needed to install, but it seems like the alignment of the slots and bolts holes are so far off, I might not be able to get these to work.
I haven't contacted the company yet as I don't want to see like an idiot until I look at it closer, but am I missed something here?
Drivers Side:
Passenger Side:
I haven't contacted the company yet as I don't want to see like an idiot until I look at it closer, but am I missed something here?
Drivers Side:
Passenger Side:
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Can the passenger side fit the drivers side ? Just asking because a bunch of people get left and right confused on cars. Drivers left.....passenger right.....but....they look way off.
Nope, that's one of the first things I made sure. Each side is cut differently and you can see the cutout on the inner passenger side where the brake line passes through.
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