Shifting Problems

5oundbit3

New Member
Oct 17, 2015
14
0
1
37
The 99 mustang I have has to be started in first to get going. Same with reverse. Once driving it seems I can shift okay but I'm not sure what the problem really is. The clutch cable has an inch of space where it goes into the dash from the engine bay even when the adjustment is fully maxed. I thought it might be a stretched cable because of the slack so I added some washers to the screws to take the slack out where it leads to the dash from the engine bay but then with all but a little of the slack out the pedal doesnt move mush and is really stiff after a couple inches of pushing down. I jacked the car up and the cable is connected to the "fork" or whatever its called on the 99 mustang clutch cable. Does anyone know if a stretched cable isnt fixed by taking the slack out or if its more likely a transmission issue? any resources ideas and suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


StangNet created a new car social app called knowmoto! Add your Mustang or post a photo in the knowmoto app and enter for a chance at a $100 gift card from LMR. Click the LMR Logo for more about the knowmoto Mega Thread!

Morri896

Member
Oct 27, 2015
9
1
13
30
Tallahassee
When you do that does it shift ok? Your symptoms sound like the clutch is not fully disengaging...but if it is still doing that when there is definitely no more travel then there might be a problem with the clutch itself.
 

5oundbit3

New Member
Oct 17, 2015
14
0
1
37
I replaced the clutch cable and the pedal and cable works now but its not disengaging so im guessing its the clutch that needs to be replaced? have to go to the shop for that. im not on the engine transmission level yet
 

Morri896

Member
Oct 27, 2015
9
1
13
30
Tallahassee
Is the problem that if you have it sitting and using at neutral you can't shift it into first when the clutch pedal is engaged? That's what I assumed you meant by it had to be started in first. But yes I would assume it's something clutch related.
 

5oundbit3

New Member
Oct 17, 2015
14
0
1
37
if the car is off i can shift all gears fine, when its running the clutch cable is now functioning but it vibrates a lot while in neutral then when i push it it seems to engage and stops vibrating but wont shift. if i start the car in first or reverse it will go then shifting works but that might be because im catching the gears at the right time while the clutch itself isnt working. what do you think?
 

Morri896

Member
Oct 27, 2015
9
1
13
30
Tallahassee
Had the same issue in my wife's 4 runner. I bled the clutch and now it works fine. seeing as you have a mechanical clutch and the clutch pedal and cable all work fine I would think it is a clutch problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

captchas

Active User
Aug 10, 2015
42
5
18
sounds like problems inside the clutch assembly. with a new cable still not making for a full release of the disc I would lay odds on your having a warped disc or pressure plate maybe both . if you do a clutch replacement replace the plate and disc as a kit machine or replace the flywheel, replace all the bolts as they are torque to yield or non re -useable bolts
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Mattstang04

10 Year Member
Sep 15, 2006
1,152
143
104
St. Louis, MO
Could be a collapsed throw out bearing. But I'm with these guys. I think you are going to have go inside the bell housing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

captchas

Active User
Aug 10, 2015
42
5
18
as a dealer tech before retiring, the only times we had non releasing clutches.such as the op is asking about, our first point was to check for a stretched cable with mechanical linkages, leaks on hydraulic which are plan site as one would see the leak dripping, from the slave out of the bell housing or possibly smelling brake fluid inside the car from the master cylinder.


inside we would find either warped pressure plates and disc's or a disc that is tearing up from abuse, in this case I would plan on pulling it out and replacing the plate and disc, replace or have the fly wheel refaced.
always replace the factory bolts which are torque to yield non re-useable with good after market bolts such as from arp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user