shock/strut upper nuts

93GTosu

Member
May 5, 2005
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when installing shocks/struts how much do you tighten down the UPPER nuts in the engine bay and in the hatch?

I dont see how I'd be able to get a torque wrench in there and keep the rod from turning. I have an impact gun...but is it ok to spin the rods while putting the nut back on with the gun? If so, how far do i zip em down? :shrug:

these are strange 10-ways btw....and they look hawt :D
 
if you read the instructions it most likely says not to use an impact on them. i know my tokico's did. because the shaft is hollow where the adjust goes through.
 
You tighten them down until they stop. IF you don't, they will jump up and down, and make noise. Do not use an impact gun. Put a gear wrench on the nut. Then put a set of Vise Grips on a long wide flat head. Place the flat head in the nut slot. Then turn it till they stop.
 
I came across the same issue when installing my tokico adjustables. They called for something like 40 lb-ft on the strut nut and I had no idea how to use a torque wrench on it. I ended up just snugging them down by feel.

I suppose if you wanted you could rig a spring-scale to a wrench but I doubt it is that critical.
 
when installing shocks/struts how much do you tighten down the UPPER nuts in the engine bay and in the hatch?

I dont see how I'd be able to get a torque wrench in there and keep the rod from turning. I have an impact gun...but is it ok to spin the rods while putting the nut back on with the gun? If so, how far do i zip em down? :shrug:

these are strange 10-ways btw....and they look hawt :D

the answer to your question is 20-30 ft. lbs. atleast thats what hotchkis told me when i was doing my cc plates and my strange 10 ways...as for the backs im not 100% sure...i havent gotten them yet probably tomorrow...
 
I use a long prybar (the kind that look like a flatblade screwdriver with a bent tip) in the notch in the strut. Hold the bar horizontal so you have leverage, and then use a box wrench to tighten the nut. I don't know how you could get a torque reading unless you used a crow's foot or something like that.

Good luck.
 
Ok, I've got the fronts on alright. thanks for the help.

The REARS now. They don't have a notch or anything on the top--just 2 flat sides you can grab with a set of vice grips.

*My problem is that I can not thread the nut down enough to get a hold on the top. I can get the nut flush with the very top of the strut shaft, but not enough to get a hold on it and the damn thing keeps moving.


There also isnt alot of the room in the back of a hatch. Theres alot of sound deadening thats getting in the way. :mad:

Edit: would it help if I put some weight on it? Like lower the car down onto its wheels with the upper nut partially on? dont know if thats a good idea or not?...
 
Ok, I've got the fronts on alright. thanks for the help.

The REARS now. They don't have a notch or anything on the top--just 2 flat sides you can grab with a set of vice grips.

*My problem is that I can not thread the nut down enough to get a hold on the top. I can get the nut flush with the very top of the strut shaft, but not enough to get a hold on it and the damn thing keeps moving.


There also isnt alot of the room in the back of a hatch. Theres alot of sound deadening thats getting in the way. :mad:

Edit: would it help if I put some weight on it? Like lower the car down onto its wheels with the upper nut partially on? dont know if thats a good idea or not?...
Once you get some weight on the dampers, that should help.

As an aside I use a proper wrench on the flat sides on the shock's shaft (generally it's something real small like a 5 or 6 mm open-end wrench).