Shocks, Tires, and Weight Reduction

Remove the sway bar for weight? As far as I know, slicks aren't DOT approved. I'd run radials (someone else can hopefully clear that up).

It should say right on the tire whether or not it's DOT approved. If it looks like it never had any tread on it to begin with, pretty much bank on it not being DOT-legal, anyway. A lot of drag radials will have SOME vague form of "tread" on them, but that kinda vanishes after just a few visits to the track.

As far as weight reduction:

- Delete rear seats
- Delete passenger seat and/or install lightweight aftermarket seat(s)
- Delete foglights/bracket (GT models only)
- Delete ALL sound deadener ... under the seats, center hump, door panels, sail panels, etc.
- Remove all HVAC components under dashboard (ducting, vacuum junk, etc.) and cap off related vacuum leads
- Delete radio
- Delete headliner and padding, spray-paint underside of roof sheetmetal to match interior (flat black worked for me) because nobody every really looks UP inside a car
- Relocate battery to rear-right of car in NHRA-approved battery box with NHRA-legal disconnect switch, and use the most lightweight brand/type/size battery you can realistically afford
- Run 1/2 tank or less when getting weighed or running at the track
- Ditch the Cobra rims altogether and run a pair of aluminum spare-tire rims up front with Mickey Thompson skinnies mounted/balanced on them
- Convert to manual steering (delete power steering)
- Delete all smog junk (if you can get away with it)
- Delete floormats
- Delete interior door panels and replace with plain aluminum panels painted to match

That's all I can think of at the moment.

You have the HP to go way faster then that...

For a DOT approved tire I would look into the Mickey Thompson Drag Radials, they are an awesome tire and very soft they almost hook like a slick. If the class requires a tread wear rating then you choices are limited to a BFG Drag Radial.

I would start the rear shocks at 4 on the driver, 5 on the passenger, loosen the front damn near all the way. If you find it takes took long for the front to come down tighten them up a click at a time.

Set the pinion angle to -3 if you have poly or solid bushings, if you have the rubber you may want to try -5.

I've heard it's either 15 or 15.5 gallons per tank. It's near-impossible to suck it completely dry, as the last couple of gallons are kind of out of reach. I think they designed it that way so that you don't suck up any sediment or other fun gunk from the bottom o' the barrel, so to speak.