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Shop floor colors

  • Thread starter Thread starter Olivethefet
  • Start date Start date May 6, 2019

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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May 6, 2019
#1
  • May 6, 2019
  • #1
I know this isn't a fox body thing, but this is where I live. Feel free to move the thread if it belongs somewhere else.

I'm in the process of building a shop. It's up at this point, but I've still.got a lot of work to do before it is useable. One of the first things I've got to do is, want to do, coat the floor. I bought a product from Armor Poxy called ArmorPoxy ll in Ford racing blue. I was not going to put flecks in it. However, as it turns out the concrete has fiberglass in it. No big deal. Except there are fibers sticking up all over the place. You dont see it at first but when you start really looking its hairier than my legs! I just put a similar product down in the garage and noticed how much the coating brings out the fibers. Now I'm thinking I need to put a fleck down to hide the fibers.

Given the situation if you were coating your shop floor Ford Blue what color flecks would you pick? I'm terrible at picking colors like this. The wife has suggest white and grey. No @Davedacarpainter I won't be putting green flecks into it. I'm attaching the fleck chart and a pick of the garage floor so you know what I'm talking about. Its gonna be a while before I do this but I need to order this stuff if I'm going this route.

 

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  • FLECK COLORS ALL PDF.pdf
    FLECK COLORS ALL PDF.pdf
    363.6 KB · Views: 293
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LX Dave

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#2
  • May 6, 2019
  • #2
If it were me....I'd go with the fleck closest to Ford gray you could get. Right now my shop is Ford gray walls with Ford blue trim and I like the colors together like that.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3
  • May 6, 2019
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My garage is white, gray epoxy floor, I have the fiber crete also but I had it trowel finished, just finished etching the floor and will be applying the coating likely tomorrow. It's the last step before moving in.
You can try taking a brick and rub the surface to take off the 'hair' or get a concrete sander to take it off other than that I wouldn't know.
BTW, I'm not using the chips.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#4
  • May 7, 2019
  • #4
Blue floor..... red and white flecks!!
 
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Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#5
  • May 7, 2019
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Red and White. Not a bad idea. Ive got to look into the brick thing. It would be a lot of floor to brick though. Maybe the sander would work better. I really want it to just be one nice smooth solid color.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#6
  • May 7, 2019
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I read up on your ah, hairy situation, apparently you can take a small propane torch and burn off the hair or take a sander with a concrete stone and grind them down.
 

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#7
  • May 7, 2019
  • #7
Ive got one of those propane flamethrowers for cleaning fence lines. I can use that!

Looks like I'll be doing some concrete grinding in the future. Thanks for the info General!
 
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Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#8
  • May 7, 2019
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I contacted the guys at Armorpoxy about preparing the floor. They said to use a brush torch to burn off the hairs! Maybe I'll break out the flamethrower after all. I'm going to have to prime the floor though.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#9
  • May 7, 2019
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The one thing to remember about concrete, I think it's the lime, but too must heat will make it pop out little pieces and they are HOT. Just fan the flame over the surface like your painting a car not burning down a tree!
 

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#10
  • May 7, 2019
  • #10
LOL. Hear ya loud and clear. If I do go through with the burn route it will be quick passes. All jokes aside I think it is the best route. It's a fresh pour so any trapped moisture, if super heated, with a crazed flamethrower would definitely make it pop.
 
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HotFox

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#11
  • May 8, 2019
  • #11
My dad had a industrial company coat his shop floor on a existing pad. It cracked and broke up after 15 years. His solution was tear up the whole floor and no coating. He just used a good sealer on the cement. I'm in Michigan and I dont believe in epoxy because of our humidity and winters. The floor has to wick away the moisture. Something to think about if your in a wet area. Also I have heard of people doing this in the city with no sand and hear it is slick with rain and snow. Just some things to consider.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#12
  • May 8, 2019
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YES! Very slick when wet!
I did the non skid additive in the laundry room (basically sand) and it is hard to clean, didn't like it.
 

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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#13
  • May 8, 2019
  • #13
I fully understand how slick these floors get when wet! I've busted butt in my dad's shop before. To Karthiefs's point I dont want to put the sand in it due to the fact that it makes so hard to clean. I'm garage on the house I put the grit in it because wet cars will be coming and going and I dont want to worry about someone getting hurt just trying to get out of the car. The shop on the other hand, ENTER AT YOUR OWN PERIL!!!
 

Blown88GT

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May 9, 2019
#14
  • May 9, 2019
  • #14
I painted my garage floor about 6 months ago with this.
Rust-Oleum EPOXYSHIELD® Professional Floor Coating
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/epoxyshield/garage-concrete-floor-coatings/professional-floor-coating?ls=238467&lc=Dark Gray Semi-Gloss

https://10carbest.com/best-garage-floor-paint

Will not hot tire lift. Add the color chips or not. Chips look like Ford blue if you choose the grey instead of the tan.
https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/Product-Documents/Brochures/epoxyshield/270173 ultimate protective coatings_final_reduced_size.ashx
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#15
  • May 9, 2019
  • #15
Same stuff I used, just did it yesterday
 

Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
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May 9, 2019
#16
  • May 9, 2019
  • #16
@Blown88GT Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate everyone chiming in with there thoughts. I actually already purchased the material I'm going to use on the floor. Its called Armorpoxy II by Armor Poxy.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/job-...nstall-system-armorpoxy-ii-per-sq-ft-low-voc/

The color I chose is what they call racing blue. The whole project is on hold at the moment until I can get moved into the new house. The concrete still needs some time to fully cure, then the next step will be to get rid of the fiberglass hairs. I'm debating priming it as well.
 

Attachments

  • ArmorClad-Color-Chart-3 (1).pdf
    ArmorClad-Color-Chart-3 (1).pdf
    138.4 KB · Views: 298

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
May 9, 2019
#17
  • May 9, 2019
  • #17
That's like $1300 for my garage!
it already has the primer in it.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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May 9, 2019
#18
  • May 9, 2019
  • #18
General karthief said:
Same stuff I used, just did it yesterday
Click to expand...

Where’s the pics?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,868
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polk county florida
May 9, 2019
#19
  • May 9, 2019
  • #19
They are on the way, need to get on 'the big screen' and update my thread
 
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B

bd8134

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#20
  • May 11, 2019
  • #20
Check out https://www.garagejournal.com/ great site for garages and work spaces.
Personally I would never skip the non-slip step. A friend was working in his garage and he slipped on some water than he did not notice.
He has a nice smooth epoxy floor and he said he could not move for 20 mins as he got winded, it happened so fast.
They don't use sand anymore, it wears too quickly, It is more difficult to clean but it is a small price to pay.
You can get different grades - sizes.
 
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