Should I switch to Synthetic ?

[sunil6784]

So i'm thinking about changing my motor oil to synthetic. I just got the car...92 Vert w/ 68,000 miles. But i'm worried about it leaking. Right now, i have no leaks in the car. But whenever i have changed to synthetic in all my other cars, i've done it with like 20 or 30 thousand miles on it. Any advice?

 

[BlackFox5.0]

I use synth blend as I too was worried about leaks.

 

[sgarlic]

Do it!

 

[HISSIN50]

i agree with Sgarlic - give it a try. worst case it will show you where the seals were plugged with junk and leak from being cleaned. you can always go back and let it sludge back up.

 

[vristang]

What?

I would stay with conventional oil so that the sludge plugs up the gasket leaks?
Not exactly my line of thinking. Sludge is not good. Eventually chunks will break loose and cause real problems.
Avoiding leaks seems like a lame reason for not making the switch to me. Kinda like not changing a bandage after surgery because you are worried about bleeding when you remove the old bandage. If you find leaks afterwords, FIX THEM.
I am doubtful of the theory that synthetic oils will cause (or allow to surface) fluid leaks. Maybe a slow leak will get worse, MAYBE. How was the amount of leakage before and after measured when this theory was developed?

If anyone can set me straight please do.

 

[HISSIN50]

What?

I would stay with conventional oil so that the sludge plugs up the gasket leaks?
Not exactly my line of thinking. Sludge is not good. Eventually chunks will break loose and cause real problems.
Avoiding leaks seems like a lame reason for not making the switch to me. Kinda like not changing a bandage after surgery because you are worried about bleeding when you remove the old bandage. If you find leaks afterwords, FIX THEM.
I am doubtful of the theory that synthetic oils will cause (or allow to surface) fluid leaks. Maybe a slow leak will get worse, MAYBE. How was the amount of leakage before and after measured when this theory was developed?

If anyone can set me straight please do.

was this all directed at me? if so, you are preaching at the wrong guy. I endorse going with synthetics. if he does uncover a few leaks and does not want to fix them (as many folks dont), he can go back to a dino oil, which will likely reseal the leaks with more crap (and is less likely to leak anyhow). I dont recommend this, but it can be (and has been) done. it was said jokingly - i put a after the thoughts.

 

[vristang]

was this all directed at me? if so, you are preaching at the wrong guy. I endorse going with synthetics. if he does uncover a few leaks and does not want to fix them (as many folks dont), he can go back to a dino oil, which will likely reseal the leaks with more crap (and is less likely to leak anyhow). I dont recommend this, but it can be (and has been) done. it was said jokingly - i put a after the thoughts.

I wasn't trying to offend. Apologies. I guess sarcasm is tough to communicate in written form.
I just don't even see how synthetics can cause leak problems bad enough to notice. Is this supposed to be because of smaller molecular size? I just don't see the logic. I am curious as I have heard this argument several times now.

 

[HISSIN50]

no apologies needed - neither of us could intrepret the connotation or inflection of eachother's remarks (in person you would have seen me roll my eyes and smirk about my original comment).

synthetics have a large G-VII pack (detergent add' package). one reason is that many synthetics (generally PAO and PAE basestocks) are able to be run for a considerable extended OCI. But the detergents really do clean the varnish out of the seals, unclogging old pinhole leaks (much like harsh radiator cleaners can remove the matter which had been formed to clog a pinhole leak).

i do believe it is a real phenomenon (leaks being 'discovered' after running synthetics), but it is entirely on a motor-by-motor basis (as is increased blow-by, which i guess people dont worry about as much). a motor that has had very regular oil changes (with higher quality dino oil [not G-I oil. LOL]) and regular maintenance is less likely to see leakage.

but you have to remember the waxxy sludge that was often found in older motors (from older motor oils) - I dont ubiquitously say that one wont have leaks (intangibles and variables mentioned above) since we dont know what was done to member's motors. but i think we agree that we would trade a small oil leak (that we should fix, but even if we dont) for the increased protection of a quality synthetic!

thoughts?

 

[vristang]

I greatly appreciate the info. This is the first time I have heard any argument against synthetics that actually made sense. I would recommend synthetics for anyone. However the first time I switched to synthetic I had a oil leak (it was there before the switch) in the back of the lwr intake. After a while it pissed me off that I was dumping oil that was worth $7 a quart (Redline). I would definitely suggest fixing the leaks.

Anyone have any reason for picking any specific synthetic?
Amsoil?
Redline?
MobilOne?
?

 

[tomabram]

The miles have nothing to do with it. Its the age of the car. The seals dry out and tend to leak. I have seen a 24 year old car with only 50 (yes fifty) miles on it and it leaked. The problem is with fixing the leak is it could be more than just the pan. The rear seal, or heads can leak and its a major job to fix. And regular oil wont sludge up and clog the leaks. Regular oil is thicker than the synthetic so it wont seep out.
Stay with the convential oil.

 

[HISSIN50]

This is the first time I have heard any argument against synthetics that actually made sense......

Anyone have any reason for picking any specific synthetic?
Amsoil?
Redline?
MobilOne?
?

ill toss out my couple cents worth.
i will address the first part of the quote first. I am actually very pro synthetic (starting with my first post where i agreed with SGarlic). i simply quickly addressed my thoughts about leakage since Sunil seemed concerned about that aspect. Vri, you and I both like synthetics (I was pointing out possible issues, but it certainly was not meant to be an "argument against synthetics"). not unlike if someone wanted 3.73's and i joked (and i probably would) that they will be buying tires more often. that could be something to think about, but certainly not an argument against getting the gears. But since my post came across to some that i was against synthetics, i did want to clearly state that I personally am a big fan of them (most of the fluids in the stang are synthetic).

on to something useful. with what brand to use: i personally think it is a personal choice. the biggest concerns i have are: basestock and price. for example, PAE basestock is wonderful for clinging to metal (what we all want, right!). But it has an affinity for water, so i would be hesitant to use it on a vehicle that is not driven often (like many of our stangs are). i would look for something that is PAO basestock witha smaller portion of PAE included (added/mixed in). and i do my best not to have to order this stuff or pay through the nose. said another way, while there are some differences in some basestocks, one would be hard pressed to go wrong with any quality PAO, PAE or even G-III+ basestock (assuming the fillers and packs are not junk).

bump for others to reply.

 

[sgarlic]

I run Mobil 1 5w20 in my '04, and recently switched my wife's Jeep (165k miles) to Mobil 1 10w30.. which incidentally fixed my low oil pressure, my valve noise at startup, and doesn't become black and burnt smelling after 500 miles like the old regular oil I used to run. I'll never go back.. Mobil 1 is the best thing since sliced bread IMHO.

 

[Darkhorse845]

Mobil One Synthetic.

 

[Saleen0679]

Anyone have any reason for picking any specific synthetic?
Amsoil?
Redline?
MobilOne?

 

[Saleen0679]

Anyone have any reason for picking any specific synthetic?
Amsoil?
Redline?
MobilOne?

Screwed up on my first post.
I've been using synthetics since my first oil change on my 89 Stang. I used to use Redline when it was in the $5 range and changed when the price increased into the $7 range. I've used the synthetics released my most of the major manufacturers since then including Castrol , Valvoline, and Penzoil. I changed to Amsoil when I could get it at dealer's price and use Mobile 1 because of availability. Can't say that I've noticed any major differences between the manufacturers, but when I did a valvle cover gasket replacement I only had a dark golden glaze over my parts rather than a dark sludge.

 

[Jaswir]

whats a good oil weight to run???

 

[stock 92 gt]

whats a good oil weight to run???

yes same question.....for me what weight will i use on my stock 92 gt with mobil1 ?

 

[KM 94 GT]

Like everyone said the synthetic based oils are going to locate your leaks for you. Why dont you consider using Valvoline's MaxLife oil formula. It is a natural base stock oil that has agents in it that condition your seals and gaskets helping them extend their life. I first started putting Maxlife 10w30 in my car 1 year ago. My car now has 165,xxx miles on it, and I don't drive it easy, but it doesn't burn any, and definetly doesn't leak.

My advice is to keep the car on a natural oil not a synthetic. Also don't (if you are) considering a motor flush. The sludge inside your motor is actually whats helping keep those bearings tight. My boss at work was telling me a story about how a friend of his was heavy into Mopars like he is, and he had a factory equipped sunroof 71 Charger (pretty rare) with a 318 in it. The guy had about 70k on it so he decided to start flushing the motor out and did so until that oil was coming out just as clean as it went in. To make a long story short i don't know what you know about mopars but i've never heard of a 318 knocking before.

Consider Valvoline MaxLife 10w30

 

[HISSIN50]

one wants to run the least viscosity that allows for a 'comfortable' amount of pressure in ALL conditions. remember, pressure is a measure of resistance to flow. more is not always better. each motor will be different.

 

[illwood]

I don't think there is any issue for switching to synthetics. Less wear and tear on the engine is worth fixing a few leaks in return.

I'm not sure if this was the fault of the Pennzoil synthetic that I was running before, but I definitely had some sludge drain out this last oil change and I'm now running Mobil-One.