Side Exhuast Muffler Shootout

ProKiller

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Apr 26, 2002
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I'm trying to figure out how to make my side exhaust work. Right now I have BBK long tubes for a fox going into a Dr. Gas o/r x-pipe with a MAC catback. I have Roush side skirts and plan to run side exhaust similar to TurboGTs but I’m trying to keep it as quiet as possible but with a straight through muffler. Most side exhaust setups go into a chambered muffler than back around to the front and out the side. I’d like to avoid this extra confusion and use a straight through then right out the side.

TurboGT’s pics can be found in this thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/763907-longtubes-x-pipe-stingers-pics-vids.html
I’d like to stick to this basic layout as it is pretty much exactly what I had in mind. The tips I’ll be using are Borla angle cut intercooled dual tips that I’ll be cutting and turning 90 degrees.
View attachment 230997

I’ve racked my brain going through and trying to find all the info I can on mufflers.
-Magnaflow Round – 4” round, 2.5” in/out, 20,24,28” long. Same mufflers used on their magnapack kits. MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
-Borla Stingers(S-type) – 5” round, 2.5” in/out, 10” long.
-Borla XR-1 - oval, 2.5” in/out, 12” long. Quieter than stingers but oval. 83db at idle, 96db at 2k rpm, 118db at WOT. Don’t have their 5” round in 2.5” in/out, smallest is 3”
-SLP Loudmouth – 4.5” round, 2.5” in/out, 18” long. Resonator. Loud. 10/10 loudest according to SLP.
-SLP Loudmouth II – 4.5” round, 2.5” in/out, 18” long. 7/10 according to SLP.
-SLP PowerFlo – 5” round, 2.5” in/out, 9” long. 5/10 according to SLP.
-Dynamax Race Bullets – 4” round, 2.5” in/out, 12” long. “4db quieter than most race mufflers” What is the db on race mufflers though??

Correct me on some assumptions if I’m wrong here. The longer the muffler the quieter it would be right? So in theory the Magnaflow that is 28” long should be one of the quietest. Also subsequently a 5” would be quieter than a 4”. I’m thinking this is the way to go here. If I don't even have that kind of room I'll be going to the SLP PowerFlo.

I’m leaning towards the Magnaflow after all this purely for its extensive selection. I should be able to measure “stuff” and see how big of a muffler I can fit in there and then get the biggest from them. The other vendors have very specific sizes that I’d be stuck with. I'm planning on taking extensive measurements this weekend. Can anyone think of a muffler I’m missing other than serious race mufflers? Again, quiet is the key here, not so much tone.
 
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How are those tips going to look with the roush style opening? I've never seen those 2 together.


Also, If quiet is your main concern, why not get a same side in/out muffler? I cant imagine you losing that much power, if any, over regular tail pipes.


I can imagine you fitting 2 different sets of mufflers in there rather than a 28" muffler. Thats way too long if you are gonna run a mid pipe too....
 
Here are some shots to get some ideas flowing...

Cobra R:
cobrarsideexhaustupborla.jpg

View attachment 230992

TurboGT:
CIMG1460.jpg


CIMG1463.jpg


CIMG1466.jpg


Random:
e70f0b28.jpg
 
i realize 28" is really long, I was more making the point of bigger is better. and yes I could go with the chambered route but the u-bend to get the tips to work just doesn't seem to be effective to me. the tight radius of the bend is worse than over the axle. Granted I make enough power as it is with the blower and whatnot but I want as free flowing as possible.
 
Another thing....

without db levels....volume ratings based on a 1-10 scale arent too trusthworthy once you cross brands.


If you can find shots of the inside of the muffler...that will help tremendously. From the descriptions i briefly read, i dont see how the SLP powerflow will be quieter than the Borla Stinger....the stinger is actually "bigger".

But based on SLP's ratings....its a pretty tame muffler. I would assume that similar sized mufflers are going to be pretty much the same volume, unless you can see a cross section picture to prove how they are going to reduce it down. All of these mufflers are the same design....just vary slightly to affect the tone.

Also, there is a spiral flow type muffler that may be worth looking at. Also, Flowmaster has their Outlaw "race" series....i know u said no race mufflers. But all these mufflers IMO, short of the huge 28" one are race mufflers.
 
i realize 28" is really long, I was more making the point of bigger is better. and yes I could go with the chambered route but the u-bend to get the tips to work just doesn't seem to be effective to me. the tight radius of the bend is worse than over the axle. Granted I make enough power as it is with the blower and whatnot but I want as free flowing as possible.

I hear ya. Its a balance since you want to keep the volume down. Keeping the volume down almost always means less HP.


Is 10rwhp (which i doubt its even that much) really gonna bother you if it sounds just like you want it to?




Just makin ya think bro :nice:
 
Keep in mind, if you ever want to put subframe connectors in the car, your side exhaust is going to have to go, or you will basically have no ground clearance whatsoever.

Kurt
 
I don't know how anything could be much louder than my stingers.. honestly...

Yes, at idle, they are quite a bit quieter than it was with open headers, but mid-throttle to WOT its basically just as loud as open headers...


IMG_3359.jpg





The same side inlet/outlet is obviously the easiest way to package the deal, but I REALLY didn't want to have those sharp bends in there... I plan to make considerably more power in the future and just didn't like the idea..

4" diameter mufflers would be great, so they could be tucked 1/2" higher into the driveshaft tunnel.. I drag my mufflers when I pull into alot of driveways.. I haven't measured, but they aren't much over 3" off the pavement...
 
You could have room for longer mufflers with the dr gas x pipe because the crossover is literally right behind the crossover with longtubes. I have considered the spintech side exhaust kit myself. if ground clearance becomes an issue and you have subframe connectors then run oval pipe and notch the connectors.
 
Keep in mind, if you ever want to put subframe connectors in the car, your side exhaust is going to have to go, or you will basically have no ground clearance whatsoever.

Kurt


That is a bit extreme Kurt. :p


Spintech offers stepped subframes.

There is oval piping available if the clearance isnt good enough.


Or you can run subframes through the floor (yes this is a bit extreme) but its the route im gonna take since i dont have any subframes yet.
 
i already have subframes so yes this is another concern. I already scrap decently on the headers so I'm not too concerned about it. I really have to measure what I got going on under there. When i looked before it didn't seem like they were going to be that much in the way. And like Nate said, they do make oval piping to work. I got no problem with getting fancy with welding as long as it gets me what I need.

TurboGT (for life of me I can't remember your name), do you have a pics of the camera on the ground to show your clearance between the exhaust and the ground?
 
i already have subframes so yes this is another concern. I already scrap decently on the headers so I'm not too concerned about it. I really have to measure what I got going on under there. When i looked before it didn't seem like they were going to be that much in the way. And like Nate said, they do make oval piping to work. I got no problem with getting fancy with welding as long as it gets me what I need.

TurboGT (for life of me I can't remember your name), do you have a pics of the camera on the ground to show your clearance between the exhaust and the ground?

Then I suggest you take a look under your car, and make a judgement call for yourself. Those subframe connectors come down almost as low as longtubes do. If you run a pipe under the subframe connector, even an oval one, it's going to take away another 3 inches of ground clearance. With a lot of custom work, you might be ok. But it's just not realistic.

Kurt
 
i already have subframes so yes this is another concern. I already scrap decently on the headers so I'm not too concerned about it. I really have to measure what I got going on under there. When i looked before it didn't seem like they were going to be that much in the way. And like Nate said, they do make oval piping to work. I got no problem with getting fancy with welding as long as it gets me what I need.

TurboGT (for life of me I can't remember your name), do you have a pics of the camera on the ground to show your clearance between the exhaust and the ground?

Its Matt.. I'll put it in my sig :nice:

I will look for the picture that you seek...

In all reality... Subs will work, but I truly think the best solution is to notch and reinforce them....

My mufflers are tucked tight to the driveshaft, but still hang very low..


They aren't any lower than the headers, BUT, they are in the middle of the car instead of at the tires, so it is the mufflers that scrape on EVERYTHING...


Then I suggest you take a look under your car, and make a judgement call for yourself. Those subframe connectors come down almost as low as longtubes do. If you run a pipe under the subframe connector, even an oval one, it's going to take away another 3 inches of ground clearance. With a lot of custom work, you might be ok. But it's just not realistic.

Kurt


Oval + Notching the subs would be the best
 
Im gonna have to say through the floor subframes would be the best. For me, its about a $300 difference between subframes under the car and some through the floor. But if u already have them on the car then its prolly more expensive.

Its nice doing stuff 1 time lol.
 
Then I suggest you take a look under your car, and make a judgement call for yourself. Those subframe connectors come down almost as low as longtubes do. If you run a pipe under the subframe connector, even an oval one, it's going to take away another 3 inches of ground clearance. With a lot of custom work, you might be ok. But it's just not realistic.

Kurt

Kurt, a 2 1/2" round pipe is only 1 3/4" height was in oval tubing.