Slotted & drilled Rotors for 89 Lx drag car. Are they worth it?

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how long is your shutdown area? I have the aforementioned cross drilled rotors (dont know why) and that's it, car brakes well at over 120mph+ never have a problem slowing down

I dont think that so much is the problem, its bringing it to 120+(I know ive hit upwards of 130)The SLAMMING on the brakes, then bringing it back up to speed, then hitting them again, etc etc. Thats where the holes start to **** you over
 
FWIW, I had drilled front rotors on my car back when it was 4 lug and they cracked. That was with normal street driving, it NEVER saw the racetrack back then on those brakes.

My car has slotted rotors on it now, and the only reason I did that was because, at the time, they were the only Cobra rotors I could find with the anti-corrosion coating on them. If I could have found plain rotors with the coating, I would have went with those.

Yes I want to stay 4 lug because I would have to buy all new wheels and tires and I just bought new front runners and have a good built 8.8 under my car now. What about turbo coupe rear disc brakes? I was thinking about buying a junk turbo coupe and taking the rear disc setup off of it and putting it on my car? Would that work? I would think that having 4 wheel discs would stop a little better right?

I think it would be more worth your time and money to focus on upgrading the front brakes first.

SSBC offers this front brake kit, which uses a stock size rotor, but upgrades you to a bigger caliper. Actually, this may be similar to the SVO setup- maybe someone with some more knowledge of the 73mm caliper can chime in here. There might be a cheaper way to piece together similar parts...

1987-93 Mustang 5.0L Front 4-Lug 11" Big Brake Kit by SSBC at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
 
can the stock caliper be swaped with the 73mm one?

Yes, they are a direct swap.

The issue with the swap is that there is no correct MC for those calipers. You really need a 7/8" bore (22mm) MC instead of the factory 21mm (the cobra 15/16" MC might work too (24mm)

Without the MC, the pedal stroke will be longer and the feel will be softer. Would it offer more clamping force? Yes, if you don't run out of stroke :shrug:


FWIW...i have run the 73mm front calipers with stock MC before.
 
I have a similar set up and can relate to your concern in going to 5 lug. I have 17x9, two sets of 15x8 and skinnies all 4 lug. I bought my car with 4 lug and like you do not plan to change. One thing the previous owner did was add Mark VII 73mm front calipers. I know they are Mark MII calipers because the logo is cast right into the caliper. I assume that it is the same rotor diameter, but not sure if anything else was changed to accept these calipers.

My car is also manual brakes, I keep a close eye on the rear drums and jack it up often and adjust the shoes to make sure they are doing their fair share of the braking. I know that on the street in a panic stop I would probably not be able to stop in time if put in that situation but do less the 700 miles a year of street driving and keep my distance in traffic. For me in the future I would like to add rear disc which I think would help a lot and eliminate the adjustments and the drum fade from hot lapping at the strip.
Scott
 
Nope. Early Foxes used a 7/8" bore MC with manual brakes...but with revised pedal arm geometry as well.

Prob is...it's a PITA to plumb in. 7/16-24 and 1/2-20 are the port thread sizes. Weatherhead might make adapters. not sure
 
Im running mark 8 calipers up front, svo drilled and slotted ebay rotors in the front and a GT rear setup with R-1 concepts rotors. This setup was pretty cheap(under a grand) and the car stops well from 120+ at the dragstrip and does well on the street too
 
Aerospace Brakes are the ticket

Hi, I have an 89 Lx hatchback w/ a 408 stroker. Car is a full blown drag car. I am disappointed with how my car stops. The brake setup is the factory set up but I put a good set of Hawk brake pads on it but didnt see a real big improvement. I have since built a faster motor and am afraid I am going to end up in the sand trap with this current brake set up as it barely slowed my car with a stock windsor with some good upgrades. I am considering putting slotted and drilled rotors up front. Are they worth it? Could anybody tell me what I can do to slow my car down faster on a limited budget. Thanks!

Once your Mustang regularly tops 130 mph in the 1/4 mile it's time to upgrade the cars brakes. Aerospace Components, located in Florida, makes a 4 wheel disc brake kit for the Fox-body Mustang that installs easily, reduces vehicle unsprung weight and greatly reduces stopping distance. I used to stop my Mustang by putting one foot on top of the other and pushing really hard, while praying I didn't run out of shutdown area. The Aerospace parts are top quality, and reasonably priced. They even include instructions on how to modify your brake pedal to increase leverage.:nice:

To find out more about drag racing your 5.0 liter Mustang check out my blog by clicking here
2010 August | Best Racing Tips Win at the Dragstrip
 

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Nope. Early Foxes used a 7/8" bore MC with manual brakes...but with revised pedal arm geometry as well.

Prob is...it's a PITA to plumb in. 7/16-24 and 1/2-20 are the port thread sizes. Weatherhead might make adapters. not sure

Nahhhh, just gotta know how to use a brake flair tool ;)
Still makes me :rlaugh: that you cant seem to use one, you being the anal retentive perfectionist that you are, i guess i can finally say i topped you on something :D
 
Nahhhh, just gotta know how to use a brake flair tool ;)
Still makes me :rlaugh: that you cant seem to use one, you being the anal retentive perfectionist that you are, i guess i can finally say i topped you on something :D

I couldn't get that **** figured out either, I ended up going to a brake shop and having them flare it for me. I think it has a LOT to do with the flare tool that you use, mine was a junk Auto Zone rental. Not going to pay a lot of money for something that I might use once or twice in my life. :D
 
I have the crappy Autozone one...and it blows goats.

I think the Sears one is much better quality, but before spending $60 on it, i just got the $10 in adapters and called it a day
 
Strange, Wilwood, Aerospace. Pick one, they are in order better to worse. Also by price. Do all 4 corners will run you under $1500 max, saves roughly 60 lbs and you'll run about .2 faster with no other changes from losing so much rotating mass.
 
I have a similar set up and can relate to your concern in going to 5 lug. I have 17x9, two sets of 15x8 and skinnies all 4 lug. I bought my car with 4 lug and like you do not plan to change. One thing the previous owner did was add Mark VII 73mm front calipers. I know they are Mark MII calipers because the logo is cast right into the caliper. I assume that it is the same rotor diameter, but not sure if anything else was changed to accept these calipers.

My car is also manual brakes, I keep a close eye on the rear drums and jack it up often and adjust the shoes to make sure they are doing their fair share of the braking. I know that on the street in a panic stop I would probably not be able to stop in time if put in that situation but do less the 700 miles a year of street driving and keep my distance in traffic. For me in the future I would like to add rear disc which I think would help a lot and eliminate the adjustments and the drum fade from hot lapping at the strip.
Scott

So can I just go to autozone or advance and buy mark VII calipers and they will work on my car with some slight modifications im sure. I was also considering putting turbo coupe rear discs on the rear. Could I go to autozone and buy them too and theyll work?