smog pump ?

well, if your car isnt emissions exempt, you might have problems. Most states do a visual of your emissions equipmment too. I had my normal inspection/emmission done and than yanked all that bs off, then you gotta keep the car below 5k miles a year which isnt hard if the car isnt your daily driver. Under 5k a year in my state means emission exempt. As far as the smog eliminator. I dont run that. Use a smaller belt. Route a peice of string around your pulleys and the measure the string lenght. There is a diagram somewhere for the belt sizes with deleted equipment but its not 100 percent accurate from my experience, I had to bring back 2 belts until I got the one that fit just right. Yeah the smog eliminator is a waste of money

+1 on that ... most of those eliminator kits are made so cheaply they smoke a bearing w/in the first month of running and then you just have a noisy pain in the ass to deal with. (if your lucky and it doesn't totally lock up that is)

There is very little benefit in removing the smog pump and associated equipment. The parasitic drag caused by the smog pump is about 2-4 HP at WOT

Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps burn the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT.




Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

troubleshooting
One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Thats true J. However, in my case, I deleted it to clean up my engine bay of the nasty looking plumbing during my mods install below. I didnt delete mine for power purposes

ShortThrow50 said:

Thats true J. However, in my case, I deleted it to clean up my engine bay of the nasty looking plumbing during my mods install below. I didnt delete mine for power purposes

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Same here, what a big difference (in the looks dept.) it makes once its gone

tkareno said:

ok so i might run into a problem with emissions, but by taking out the smog pump could that do any harm to the motor?

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If you have no cat converters, you don't need a smog pump.

If you do have cat converters you need a smog pump. Without it the cats will clog and fail.

we have a winner! no it wont pass without the pump! at least i dont think it will! never tried but commonsense says no!and you cant run the cats without the smog pump you ll wreck em!

I've had no smog pump (well the pump is there, but it's not connected to the heads anymore) for about 25k miles w/out a problem yet.
How many miles should it take before problems could arise? btw I run rich.

Glenn said:

I've had no smog pump (well the pump is there, but it's not connected to the heads anymore) for about 25k miles w/out a problem yet.
How many miles should it take before problems could arise? btw I run rich.

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you have problems now.

I ,love how everyone says it wont pass emissions, yet, YOU ARE NOT EVEN FROM THE SAME STATE AS HIM, THEREFORE DONT KNOW IF IT WILL PASS HIS STATES EMISSIONS. Since I am from his state. I can say this. I took my 95 gt and my 88 gt through emmissions, with stock cats on, and ZERO SMOG Equipment. I pass with flying colors everytime.

On that same note as Joe, I went to the same station as him with cats on (stock H cut down to fit long tubes), and the smog equipment, and although I passed, I BARELY made it. Every car, every station, every state is different. There is only one way to know if you pass...

Take it to a station and try.

Joe95StangGT said:

I ,love how everyone says it wont pass emissions, yet, YOU ARE NOT EVEN FROM THE SAME STATE AS HIM, THEREFORE DONT KNOW IF IT WILL PASS HIS STATES EMISSIONS. Since I am from his state. I can say this. I took my 95 gt and my 88 gt through emmissions, with stock cats on, and ZERO SMOG Equipment. I pass with flying colors everytime.

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Absolutely correct. Every state, car is different. Also, depends on whether you are running cats for smog pump cars vs. non smog pump cars as to whether they will clog or not. Shoot it even differs as to what county in some states, and even from inspection station to inspection station.

jimmynug said:

Absolutely correct. Every state, car is different. Also, depends on whether you are running cats for smog pump cars vs. non smog pump cars as to whether they will clog or not. Shoot it even differs as to what county in some states, and even from inspection station to inspection station.

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who drives there fox over 5k miles a year anyway. Hell I thoght they were all emissions excempt. You guys should get some daily drivers lol.

Save the foxbody from high mileage

I drove mine 4000 miles in about 3-4 months, and that was missing about half the cruise season. Why build a car to not drive it??? By the way I daily drive an Audi A4, but I like cruising the Mustang a little better!

25thmustang said:

On that same note as Joe, I went to the same station as him with cats on (stock H cut down to fit long tubes), and the smog equipment, and although I passed, I BARELY made it. Every car, every station, every state is different. There is only one way to know if you pass...

Take it to a station and try.

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yea but you only had 2 cats n you were lazy to make a 4 cat pipe, to garuntee passing....bum

Lazy, hell yeah!