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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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So after 160k miles... something let go **PICS**

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigHairyMonkey
  • Start date Start date Sep 6, 2007
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BigHairyMonkey

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2003
411
1
16
Houston (Bellaire) TX
Sep 22, 2007
#41
  • Sep 22, 2007
  • #41
ok got a vacuum gauge and at idle with the car pretty warmed (700-750 rpm idle) i am seeing 15 in HG. Is that where i should be at? If i let it idle at 800-900 it reads 17 HG and at 1100 its a steady 20 HG so i dont think its a sticking valve or anything. Still problems still persist. Hesitation at part throttle at random occurences, lack of power at WOT (always), and a really lopey idle. It seems like the car runs a bit better when its colder outside ???? sooo.. the things that have been done/checked...

-checked the vacuum
-checked the timing (14 adv spout out)
-new plugs (gapped at .054)
-new wires (FRPP)
-checked fuel pressure (37psi vac off)
-set the the tps (.99)
-ECT & ACT sensors where changed w/ new FORD units less than a month ago
-The MAF is clean & functioning properly (75mm PRO-M calibrated to 19lbers).. clocking it does nothing.

It seems wierd to me that the car runs better at some times than others. 1 thing that never changes is that it really slow WOT. It revs smooth but doesnt pull at all.I am open to suggestions. again.
 

BigHairyMonkey

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2003
411
1
16
Houston (Bellaire) TX
Sep 22, 2007
#42
  • Sep 22, 2007
  • #42
Also i checked to make sure the CAI is on properely and went and bought new clamps for it to make sure im not getting in any air past the MAF.
 

PUNISHER RACING

Active Member
Aug 27, 2007
1,124
0
36
FORD CITY, PA.
Sep 23, 2007
#43
  • Sep 23, 2007
  • #43
Have you pulled all your plugs and checked them yet, it sounds like your trying to burn water? Alot of times when a car is overheated the heads or even the block distorts causing the problem to never really be fixed if it wasn't properly checked first. I would start by getting the engine up to temp, pull all your plugs and check them, run a compression check on all your cylinders and record them. Start there. Once you realize the motor is worth working with then you should bring your motor to top dead center (comp. stroke) and check all wiring and timing marks. Remember to check for vacuum leaks also everywhere(use wd40)
 

BigHairyMonkey

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2003
411
1
16
Houston (Bellaire) TX
Sep 23, 2007
#44
  • Sep 23, 2007
  • #44
ill try that. thanks
 

BigHairyMonkey

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2003
411
1
16
Houston (Bellaire) TX
Sep 23, 2007
#45
  • Sep 23, 2007
  • #45
PUNISHER RACING said:
Have you pulled all your plugs and checked them yet, it sounds like your trying to burn water? Alot of times when a car is overheated the heads or even the block distorts causing the problem to never really be fixed if it wasn't properly checked first. I would start by getting the engine up to temp, pull all your plugs and check them, run a compression check on all your cylinders and record them. Start there. Once you realize the motor is worth working with then you should bring your motor to top dead center (comp. stroke) and check all wiring and timing marks. Remember to check for vacuum leaks also everywhere(use wd40)
Click to expand...

also... the car has never 'overheated' while i have owned it. I've had it up there prob 2-3 lines away from the top on the stock gauge, and that was when i had e-fan problems. Ive never had it actually peg the stock gauge or anything so i dont think (well i HOPE TO GOD) that the heads/block/intake surfaces didnt get warped so they are not seating right..
 
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