Engine Spout connector (Code 18)
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Y'all know better than to let your plug wires lay around all willy nilly, those wires are pretty stout but heat and rubbing will shorten their life. Actually any wires need covering and held in place. 
The chip was from the 90s.
It came with the extension piece at the bottom of this picture to make up for the thickness of the chip (to retain the harness to the computer).
It also came with a "octane rod" (to replace the original), thats only used in fords stock distributors.
Over 2 decades ago I contacted MSD about the octane rod (they didn't know anything about it) as their replacement distributors didn't have it.
(The rod only adjusted the timing minimally by slightly rotating the internals instead of the normal method per the distributor bolt).
I have 1 of these chips (with bolt & octane rod still in the distributor) in the back of a drawer lol
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It came with the extension piece at the bottom of this picture to make up for the thickness of the chip (to retain the harness to the computer).
It also came with a "octane rod" (to replace the original), thats only used in fords stock distributors.
Over 2 decades ago I contacted MSD about the octane rod (they didn't know anything about it) as their replacement distributors didn't have it.
(The rod only adjusted the timing minimally by slightly rotating the internals instead of the normal method per the distributor bolt).
I have 1 of these chips (with bolt & octane rod still in the distributor) in the back of a drawer lol
.
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It can mess up your gas mileage, it's supposed to enhance performance/drive ability if it is a 'chip' and programmed for modifications that have been added, not knowing any more about it I would remove it.
Not having the extension piece only means that the bolt in the engine harness 60 pin connector would not retain the harness as intended by the factory which you alluded to in Post #8. Not ideal by any means but like the General stated and you have done punt it until you resolve the issue to rule it out.
In all honesty I would say it probably does little more than a good tune up and bumping the timing to 14 degrees did back in the day if the motor is stock. I am one of those guys that fully believes that the only way you get your money's worth from a tune it to put it on a dyno and tune it on a dyno. And if you are doing this you better have changed the heads, cam, intakes, injectors, cold air intake, etc otherwise tuning a basically stock EEC-IV motor won't net you the hp to make the dollars spent worth it unless you are in some type of stock class racing bracket or series.
In all honesty I would say it probably does little more than a good tune up and bumping the timing to 14 degrees did back in the day if the motor is stock. I am one of those guys that fully believes that the only way you get your money's worth from a tune it to put it on a dyno and tune it on a dyno. And if you are doing this you better have changed the heads, cam, intakes, injectors, cold air intake, etc otherwise tuning a basically stock EEC-IV motor won't net you the hp to make the dollars spent worth it unless you are in some type of stock class racing bracket or series.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Since there's no active circuitry on that, the resistors are probably there to alter sensor values seen by the ECU. Usually the strategy is to make intake air and coolant temps look lower than they are so the engine runs more fuel and timing. It might even make the (narrowband) O2 sensor signal look lean to again increase fuel. Usually all they do is reduce fuel economy. They were a huge ripoff for what they cost back then. It might be handy as a breakout board though.
None of that looks burned but I have no idea what it is.
CAMTWO1070
Active Member
If that breaout box is for a MAF conversion alls you need to do is do the modification the right way by taking the schematic posted by a member and rewiring the plug yourself or you can go on eBay and order a new breakout box...
Theres a great guy on ebay that can fix your ECUs screw-in nutsert if needed and verify your ECU is functioning correctly..
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8FTNGWtse8
The hardest part is removing the red plug and using a small jewelers screwdriver and a jewelers loupe to very gently flick the terminal locks back to remove or add the terminals then to gently flick them back so the red locking plug wont break the locking tabs off..
You can get the terminals on ebay by buying an EEC-IV terminal plug thats been cut from the harness..
While youre repinning and rewiring the ECU plug you can take the time to do a continuity and resistor tests from the ECU plug to where it terminates to to find any open or shorted wires/connections..
I hook up all the sensors atc and I test the wiring harness as a whole system and I check and verify all my data etc using my laptop and a QH chip//
Another thing to note is where terminals 40 and 60 terminate to as this spot is very important and needs to be ultra clean with a great grounding point and have no other wires spliced into them ...
I find its easier to sometimes remove the whole harness and rebuild them and also remove the salt n pepper shaker connections ....
The other alternative would be to buy a speed density ECU from EBay and plugging it in and running your car as speed density which isnt bad and are easier to trick than a MAF system without needing a tuning chip if you decide to do upgrades like a bigger TB ///
Good Luck
Theres a great guy on ebay that can fix your ECUs screw-in nutsert if needed and verify your ECU is functioning correctly..
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8FTNGWtse8
The hardest part is removing the red plug and using a small jewelers screwdriver and a jewelers loupe to very gently flick the terminal locks back to remove or add the terminals then to gently flick them back so the red locking plug wont break the locking tabs off..
You can get the terminals on ebay by buying an EEC-IV terminal plug thats been cut from the harness..
FORD OEM EEC-IV PCM 60-pin Pigtail Connector wiring harness plug includes MAZDA | eBay
Ford EEC-IV 60-pin PCM connector pigtail (x1). FORD Genuine OEM Part ~ used. Possible Application and Part Number Interchange provided as a convenience.
www.ebay.com
While youre repinning and rewiring the ECU plug you can take the time to do a continuity and resistor tests from the ECU plug to where it terminates to to find any open or shorted wires/connections..
I hook up all the sensors atc and I test the wiring harness as a whole system and I check and verify all my data etc using my laptop and a QH chip//
Another thing to note is where terminals 40 and 60 terminate to as this spot is very important and needs to be ultra clean with a great grounding point and have no other wires spliced into them ...
I find its easier to sometimes remove the whole harness and rebuild them and also remove the salt n pepper shaker connections ....
The other alternative would be to buy a speed density ECU from EBay and plugging it in and running your car as speed density which isnt bad and are easier to trick than a MAF system without needing a tuning chip if you decide to do upgrades like a bigger TB ///
Good Luck
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