Stangnet Guru's: Teach me your ways!

[dec322]

I've always loved the older 5.0s. Finally today I bought one: 1988 Mustang GT. I've been reading about all kinds of things on this site and have come to one conclusion: I must move to Orlando and become jrichker's neighbor. All mustang problems would be solved.
Here are some questions that I couldn't adequately answer through the search function.

1. The car is still set up as speed density. It has headers, h-pipes, no cats, smog delete, flowmasters, cold air intake. Do I need to have the computer "reflashed" (??) to utilize these items?

2. I learned to drive a clutch on a F150 and have since driven a few 4 bangers w/ standard trannys. This is the first time to drive a 5.0 w/ a clutch. The pedal is harder to push down than I expected. Is this just typical for the car? The previous owner "warned" me about it as if it is normal. If this is normal....my left leg is going to be huge compared to my right leg.

3. I've been reading about IAC and all other kinds of AFSDIFOEJILFJSLDFJA . Is there a site that I could use to figure out what all these letters mean?

 

[vristang]

As for the IAC etc.
There is a book called "Ford Ruel Injection& Electronic Engine Control" written by Probst. This book does have all of the definitions you will need, and it explains how the computer does what it does.

The clutch in my 2.3L has always been pretty light compared to the 5.0

Can't help with the SD question, but I am sure others can

jason

 

[HISSIN50]

Welcome to the site. I am no guru, but will reply.

You dont need a tune with those mods. You are gonna be ok till you do something to alter the vac signal or start moving some decent air (I am SD also).

There is a decent chance you have a HD Ford clutch kit in your car. Having driven a KC and comparing it to my HD kit, there is a large difference.

You know, there is a list somewhere on one of the sites that tells all the acronyms. I also HIGHLY recommend the Probst manual that Jason suggested. Jrichker has a post he has put up a few times lately that contains the IBN and exact title. And that book actually lists the acronyms in the back.

Welcome to the site - you will find a great group of people here. I belong to many stang forums, but I stay here.

Good luck.

 

[2000xp8]

You don't need to worry about the computer and SD until you want Heads and a cam.

And hissin is right, you probably have the HD clutch, it's absurdly hard, replace it with the King Clutch or the centerforce II kit.

 

[sgarlic]

Welcome.

My 88 was a great little car til I started having other problems related to the previous owners not keeping up on regular maintenance items. Try doing a google search for "mustang abbreviation" or "mustang acronym" and you may find something worth reading. A google search for any one you're curious about will surely show up as something. For instance, "IAC Mustang" showed up as "Idle Air Control" within the first few hits.

Congrats on the purchase.. and move to Tucson.. there's less humidity.

 

[SeventyMach1]

I am no guru, but will reply.

1.) ^^^^ I call on that!

2.) WELCOME TO STANGNET!!!

 

[JBeezy53]

Congrats on the purchase. This site will become one of the best tools in your toolbox. I'm glad you learn to use the search function, some people never use it.

 

[1SLO306]

1.) ^^^^ I call on that!

im totally with u on that

 

[Black1987Stang]

You could have the HD clutch OR someone routed the cable the wrong way like the kid before me did, didnt kink it but it was a sharp bend and once I rerouted the cable in, it felt like butter compared to how it was before, it felt like a leg press or something the way i got it.

 

[dec322]

Thanks for the replies, guys. If you have knowledge about the mustang then you are a guru. Thanks!

You could have the HD clutch OR someone routed the cable the wrong way like the kid before me did, didnt kink it but it was a sharp bend and once I rerouted the cable in, it felt like butter compared to how it was before, it felt like a leg press or something the way i got it.

Leg press is a good description. I'll check to see about the cable. The car was originally an auto but he converted it to a 5 speed. I might have to stretch before I drive to church today....if not, I might pull a muscle or something.

 

[FoxBodyGT]

As far as SD goes. If you are hardcore SD guy (or just stubborn) you can keep the SD until you put a blower or turbo on (even then you can keep it with some engineering).

Your mods right now will be fine with SD. I had an 86gt with ported cobra intake, ported GT40's, 70mm throttle body, 1.7 rockers, stock cam, full exhaust, 155lph fuel pump, and gears. It ran fine. If I would have kept it I would have added a SD friendly cam. Actually, my new combo in my 88gt will be very similar, but with a custom cam and run great.

Don't let the SD scare you. Now if you want simple (or arent' stubborn), go with a computer from a 89-92 or even a 93 MAF equipped stang (about 150 or so on ebay) and a swap harness (Rohe racing in Ohio carries them) and you can do the swap once you buy the maf and the tubing or the cold air intake.

I actually had all the parts to convert mine to MAF, but I decided on a "stock" rebuild and won't need it.

 

[04sleeper]

Welcome to the site.:SNSign:

I would give you the same advise as JT (Hissin) gave you on your questions.

The first thing that popped into my head about the clutch as that it might be a HD Ford kit as well.

Another good book is this one. It has a lot of good information as well.
View attachment 487650

 

[Euphoric306]

watch out though if it really is an HD clutch, my leg gets cramped in traffic all the time haha

nah im kidding but don't be too hard on that tranny, otherwise you'll find yourself with lots of noise coming from your drivetrain


welcome to stangnet

 

[Black1987Stang]

Thanks for the replies, guys. If you have knowledge about the mustang then you are a guru. Thanks!



Leg press is a good description. I'll check to see about the cable. The car was originally an auto but he converted it to a 5 speed. I might have to stretch before I drive to church today....if not, I might pull a muscle or something.

Yea my legs had to get used to it when I fixed the cable...Theres a pic on here somewhere of the correct way to route it and i think a wrong way, just use the search and u should find it. My friend has the same deal too but its caused from his longtube headers burning away at his clutch cable

 

[Mustang5L5]

I've always loved the older 5.0s. Finally today I bought one: 1988 Mustang GT. I've been reading about all kinds of things on this site and have come to one conclusion: I must move to Orlando and become jrichker's neighbor. All mustang problems would be solved.
Here are some questions that I couldn't adequately answer through the search function.

1. The car is still set up as speed density. It has headers, h-pipes, no cats, smog delete, flowmasters, cold air intake. Do I need to have the computer "reflashed" (??) to utilize these items?

2. I learned to drive a clutch on a F150 and have since driven a few 4 bangers w/ standard trannys. This is the first time to drive a 5.0 w/ a clutch. The pedal is harder to push down than I expected. Is this just typical for the car? The previous owner "warned" me about it as if it is normal. If this is normal....my left leg is going to be huge compared to my right leg.

3. I've been reading about IAC and all other kinds of AFSDIFOEJILFJSLDFJA . Is there a site that I could use to figure out what all these letters mean?

Welcome, where to start?

#1.) I wouldn't worry about the car being SD. SD cars tend to be set up slightly more aggressive than their later mass air counterparts. Mass Air is more emmissions orientated but does have other benefits such as ease of tuning. I have the exact same mods done to my '88 and there is no need to retune anything. It runs like a bat out of hell. You can even do heads and she'll be fine. It's cam swaps that tend to mess things up.

You'll notice that there is no check engine light on '88's. The actually light is there, but it's for the '88 Cali cars that had Mass Air. In a speed density car it's nofunctional. That means you can't tell if the computer has any codes stores. You'll have to manually check them yourself or have it done at Autozone. This will tell you if there are any problems or faulty sensors and get you running the car at 100%

Here's a website on how to read the codes
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html

#2.) Yes the clutch on 5.0 Mustangs tends to be harder than other cars. That's because it's a manual clutch operated by a cable and not by a hydraulic slave cylinder. Still, the type of clutch you run can affect how it feels. If you do not like the stiff clutch, perhaps an upgrade to a King Cobra clutch down the road will help.

#3.)

IAC = Idle Air Control Valve
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculator
IAT = Air Intake Temp Sensor
ECT = Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
MAF = Mass Air Flow (usually referring to the actual sensor)
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
EEC = Electronic Engine Control (computer)
TB = Throttle Body
19#ers = usually the size of the injectors
CAI = Cold Air Induction
SD = Speed Density
TPS = Throttle position sensor
O2 = Oxygen Sensor
Cats = Catalytic Converters on exhaust pipe
T-5 = Borg Warner/Tremec T-5 tranny
AOD = Automatic OverDrive

 

[dec322]

As far as SD goes. If you are hardcore SD guy (or just stubborn) you can keep the SD until you put a blower or turbo on (even then you can keep it with some engineering).

Don't let the SD scare you. Now if you want simple (or arent' stubborn), go with a computer from a 89-92 or even a 93 MAF equipped stang (about 150 or so on ebay) and a swap harness (Rohe racing in Ohio carries them) and you can do the swap once you buy the maf and the tubing or the cold air intake.

Well, I'm not hardcore SD. In a couple of years I plan on making this car more of a toy. Right now its a daily driver. I know I want MAF when I change the engine. Maybe I'll change it from SD to MAF before that.....it seems that I read somewhere that this will give better throttle response. I'll check into it when I get a couple of hundred bucks.

 

[Tonys96Cobra]

Welcome!! Youll love it here! Just dont ever take anything from S&B seriously and youll be just fine. If your clutch cable ends up being messed, get one of those BBK adjustable quadrants, they are easily adjustable for pedal travel, and may help the feel of the pedal. Peace

 

[Black1987Stang]

Welcome, where to start?

#1.) I wouldn't worry about the car being SD. SD cars tend to be set up slightly more aggressive than their later mass air counterparts. Mass Air is more emmissions orientated but does have other benefits such as ease of tuning. I have the exact same mods done to my '88 and there is no need to retune anything. It runs like a bat out of hell. You can even do heads and she'll be fine. It's cam swaps that tend to mess things up.

You'll notice that there is no check engine light on '88's. The actually light is there, but it's for the '88 Cali cars that had Mass Air. In a speed density car it's nofunctional. That means you can't tell if the computer has any codes stores. You'll have to manually check them yourself or have it done at Autozone. This will tell you if there are any problems or faulty sensors and get you running the car at 100%

Here's a website on how to read the codes
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest.html

#2.) Yes the clutch on 5.0 Mustangs tends to be harder than other cars. That's because it's a manual clutch operated by a cable and not by a hydraulic slave cylinder. Still, the type of clutch you run can affect how it feels. If you do not like the stiff clutch, perhaps an upgrade to a King Cobra clutch down the road will help.

#3.)

IAC = Idle Air Control Valve
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculator
IAT = Air Intake Temp Sensor
ECT = Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
MAF = Mass Air Flow (usually referring to the actual sensor)
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
EEC = Electronic Engine Control (computer)
TB = Throttle Body
19#ers = usually the size of the injectors
CAI = Cold Air Induction
SD = Speed Density
TPS = Throttle position sensor
O2 = Oxygen Sensor
Cats = Catalytic Converters on exhaust pipe
T-5 = Borg Warner/Tremec T-5 tranny
AOD = Automatic OverDrive

Heres a few more...

ACT-Air Charge Temperature (same as IAT)
MAP-Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor(thats what SD cars use)
BAP-Barometric Atmospheric Pressure sensor (mass air cars use this to tell altitude)
TFI-Thick Film Ignition
AODE-Automatic Overdrive (Electric)
PIP-Profile Ignition Pickup
PCV-Positive Crankcase Ventilation
HEGO-Heated EGO sensor (Heated O2 sensor)
MIL-Malfunction Indicator Light((Check Engine Light) aka CEL)